First post, so please be kind. I did find some posts on this, but not my issue specifically.

2021, 29k miles, went into limp home mode with Drive Fault in dash.

RAC OBD to aux water pump (sorry didn’t code). Disconnected connector and it seemed to confirm as another fault code did not appear.

I was not aware of any heating issues prior to it suddenly appearing after stopping at a shop and restarting. Could not clear as it reappeared after clearing.

does this immediately sound like only a water pump issue or is there a solenoid or stat somewhere?

 

THANKS
 

Anyone have any experience of this?

Sorry Colin, but it is not clear to me what the problem is or what you are asking. You mentioned limp mode and heating and an error code but I don't see a connection between them.

On start up got message ‘Drive Fault revs limited to 2750’ amber engine management light on.

RAC visited and diagnosed Aux Water pump fault via OBD. Disconnecting the electrical connector on the pump did not throw up another code, so it looks like a faulty pump?

When I look at posts in this forum aux water pump fails seem to cause some heating issues, but I was not aware of any other symptoms.

Does that diagnosis seem correct?

 

cheers

 

Edited February 14Feb 14 by Colso

I doubt that a faulty water pump would cause the engine to go into limp mode. If the engine reaches 90 degrees and the cabin heating works I think we can forget about the water pump.

What can cause limp mode is a dying battery, which can also cause false error messages. Dying batteries are common as soon as winter arrives. I suggest you get the battery tested professionally as a first step to the diagnosis. Please let us know the outcome.

The engine turnover is fast and I measured the voltage 15v. OK no load but…

thanks for your help.

Btw, how would I know if engine temp reaches 90 degrees? Only oil temp is available.

90 degrees is the normal operating temperature.

How are you measuring voltage?

Hi Cliff, thanks again.

I measured across the battery with a DVM.

I would have thought that if the battery was suspect engine start up turnover would be laboured?

Not so, the delicate electronics of modern cars require a stable power source which a dying battery can not supply, even if it can crank the engine normally.

That's why I suggested professional testing on a deep discharge tester, which will measure voltage while drawing at least 200 amps.

Thanks Cliff!
 

Just a final thought, if I put the battery charge on my Cnet charger for 24 hours and then try it?

 

Reason I ask is nearest garage is 20 miles away and labour charges are £160 ph

 

thanks again

13 hours ago, Colso said:

 

Just a final thought, if I put the battery charge on my Cnet charger for 24 hours and then try it?

 

No amount of charging will correct a defective battery. I am told Kwitfit and Halfords offer free battery testing.

Cheers Cliff