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Hi Dianne I would imagine this was a bit of a shock. Fuel filter, dust and pollen filter and the timing belt would not be part of the MOT. Get those done as soon as you can afford them. These jobs are possibly 50% of the bill. Throttle body is probably why you are losing power and causing the warning light. Front link arm possible the bushes are worn, coil spring may be broken. I think these would have to be done to pass MOT. Best of luck Tony

I know all about the stealers and their tricks which is why I never take my cars to them but this is absolutely shocking, £20 for the filter and about 5 mins to change, luckily I do all my own work so the car will be looked after properly now and hopefully will last 170k as well. Jordan

Also I must add you'll probably be looking £1000 for a new ECU.

Hey Louise you've found me. My advice would be to Google ECU repairers in your area. You could always try local independent Audi specialists or auto electricans. Alternatively speak to Audi as they might still stock them new. Also bare in mind if you source a second hand unit then it'll need to be coded to the car.

Definitely getting a second opinion! Thank you ❤️

Hi the rear spring is a fail the timing belt is not a fail but will ruin the engine if it snaps, any idea when the last change was, you can't tell by looking at it the change is based on time or milage, the fuel filter is not a failure nor is the pollen filter and the throttle body, the engine light isa fail so I personally would get another garage to scan it for faultsand go from there, if you post the codes we can help with that. Steve.

just switch off ignition and test voltage immediately. You don't have to wait. You want (well i do), want the dash cam to switch on when you start the ignition, and switch off when you switch off the ignition. "which ring lug would you recommend? & how do I connect it to the black earth cable supplied in the nextbase kit?" The ring lug to use should suit the EARTH screw/bolt size, so i can't recommend this. They are just standard ring lugs in all sorts of sizes. You CRIMP the black earth wire where i have arrowed above. Joe

I have a ring lug/ferrule on mine, which i already had at home. But to be honest you don't need it. 2 washers and wrap the earth wire around the bolt will do. Of course a ring lug would be better. It is important to get a good earth!! Look in the manual for the fuse box details, or here. https://fuse-box.info/audi Easiest way to test (which is what i did), is locate the correct fuse SIZE you will be doubling up, and put a multi meter on it (minimum 14Vdc setting) and EARTH. With ignition off, check the fuses that have 0V (as this is what i would recommend). Switch on the ignition (you don't have to start the car) to see if you have 12V+, and then switch off ignition and the power should return to 0V. Trial and error, but easy to do. Thanks, Joe

you could ask/pm STEVE Q on here. he might know a place that checks over/repairs ecu's

How old is the battery? If it's on the original battery then this could be failing and ultimately be the culprit. We've seen time and time again where failing batteries throw up all sorts of electrical gremlins including multiple ones.

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Hi much as I hate to dispute the EGR flow theory, Darrel is talking Scallops as the EGR flow has no way of back feeding into the air box, what you have there is a years worth of airborne contaminants, the most obvious thing being that exhaust gas is very, very hot and if it was coming back to the filter it would melt the whole thing in short order, I have even seen blocked DPF units that have had holes burnt into them where the hot gas has burnt through a carbonised steel casing to escape, allied to the fact your EGR was blocked and the gas is injected further down the stream before the throttle how was it getting all the way back through the intercooler past the opposing cooled air and back up to the induction trunking, sounds like a bit of a fairy story. If I wanted injectors I would try United Diesels with 30 years plus in the game they are a safe bet. Steve.

Hi thats a waste of time they will only tell you that A its changed at the fitters visual inspection B no one requested a change, their attitude is !Removed! as they are all franchises and charge the non changed filter every time to the parent company, £150.00 for an oil and filter change really?, they all lie without thinking about it which is why I do all my own servicing, sorry to tell you this but you are going to have to swallow this one, Audi service history is worth less than a Tescos premium bog roll, I change all my filters and oil at 9k as dirty filters and oil cause the degradation in the mechanical areas at an alarming rate, here's a picture of my air filter at 9k spot the new one both filters are Bosch which are much cheaper than the stuff in badge engineered Audi boxes, must be doing something right the cars at nearly 170k. Steve.

I also experienced this with my MY22 A6 Avant 40 TDI. Few things to consider to put your mind at rest... New vehicles often are delivered with half or near empty fluids to keep transportation costs (weight) down. During the PDI the dealership should be topping up fluids and checking levels etc. It is not uncommon during this period the technician checks your level and sees 60% full and wont top up the fluid - come round 2 months later your oil warning light appears and it says to need to top up at least 1 litre to bring it back above 50% capacity - To give you an indication in litres the max capacity is around 6 litres. I believe, this warning message appears when your oil level is around or below 50% capacity. It is not low (near empty), I found out when I put 2 litres in and then checking after letting the engine settle, my level was now showing way above the max line which then made me realise that this level is not a TRUE level of your total oil capacity. New vehicles though refined and already run in to a degree, will be inefficient self lubricating and running efficiently due to engine/drive train bedding in. You tend not to see the real world efficiency, performance until around 15,000 miles or so which for a diesel car is roughly 1/16th of its engineered/designed 'typical' driven life cycle. low fuel economy and high oil usage up till then should be monitored but expected. All diesel vehicles due to emission laws now need to be as efficient as possible, this means manufacturers have tried every which way to get past regulations (sometimes cheating) Audi use a very low viscosity oil similar to what was used in high performance cars during the early 2000's due to its low friction whilst lubricating intricate parts, marginal tolerance fast moving components. This means in layman's terms, the oil when at operating temperature is more likely to burn/evaporate during combustion cycles - thus higher perceived oil consumption is likely to occur. With my A6 I was topping up 1 litre of oil or sometimes more, roughly every 3-5k miles however, I do a lot of motorway mileage compared to short to medium journeys. I was monitoring this and in fairness the oil usage has become far less between 10K miles to 18K miles compared to the first 10K miles. I hope this helps!

Hello Robert, Thanks for joining the forum. It’s not that unusual for engines to burn oil within the first few thousand miles, and then the consumption falls off as the components bed in. Time of course will confirm or refute this. I this were mine, I would ensure any added oil is only bought from an Audi dealer, and the receipts retained. I would also keep a log of the date and mileage when the oil was added. This will be important evidence in the event of any subsequent dissatisfaction. Perhaps you would keep us updated. Kind regards, Gareth.