Leaderboard

Ryan. The only reason for a clutch to overheat is slippage, caused either by poor driver control or severe wear. If you can eliminate those factors then there must be a fault in either the master and/or slave cylinder. How many miles has the clutch done? Does the driver ride the clutch at junctions etc? Is the clutch "bite point" about half way up the pedal travel when it is working? Does the engine speed increase without a corresponding increase in road speed? Answers to those questions will us identify where the problem lies.

Fair enough Ryan. I have reservations about resting a foot on the pedal at all times. My driving instructor (my father) would slap my leg when I did it, but I daresay that behaviour would be frowned upon now. Nevertheless I reckon it's more likely to be a fault in the hydraulic system such as air or worn cylinder seals.

Hi I would say that there is air in the clutch line but most likely the master cylinder for the clutch is failing, the most common cause is bad fluid where no one bothers to change it, if you replace the clutch master bleed the whole braking system with comma ESP4 and the clutch cylinder, any contact however light will force the release bearing on to the pressure plate, thats why they supply a foot rest. Steve. Steve.

The prime candidate to my mind is a dying battery. The recent cold weather is revealing the weaknesses of all batteries. If it is the original five year old battery I would not hesitate to change it; if it is more recent I suggest you get it professionally tested before buying a new one. Make sure you get any new battery coded to the car.

Pardon me if I snigger, but glad the solution was so simple in the end.

Ha! at least you got to the bottom of it. And it didn't cost a penny to remove anything that had crawled in somewhere and died. Sounds like a result to me, maybe a trip to the opticians though 😂

yes embarrsingly, thanks to all who offered advice, might change my sign in name to nobheed. Coudnt bear the smell amymore so took to halfords for a deodorise of the air con n technician said there was nothing wrong with the aircon, had a bit craic n techincian proceeded to pull a bag of lamb mince from under the passengers seat ( cant believe av missed it even when chaning pollen filter) must av been there at least two weeks urrggghhhhh ! sorry it wasnt more of a technical solution

Hi Mark, and welcome. Nice looking A6 you have there

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Firstly, all the very best to the members of the Audi Owners Club. With regards my subframe issue - I sourced a brand new one from IM axles after the recommendation from @Magnet for £400 including delivery and it’s been fitted by my mechanic. It took him about 7 hours including the wheel alignment. He needed to soak a number of the bolts to ensure safe removal and as result of the corrosion that had occurred. i Had a late Xmas gift from the car in the form of my front pads needing to be replaced so all in parts and labour for the subframe removal and fitting the new one, wheel alignment and new pads, it cost just over £1k. Still perplexed as to how just that one section had suffered with corrosion as no leaks were found and the remainder of the underside is in top nick. Thank you again to the club fraternity for their help, and who knows maybe this thread could help someone further down the line.

Hi the alternators are not that much money unless you buy the Audi original part, I think they are made originally by Valeo or Denso but if you get the part number the world is your oyster, or just get your unit reconditioned. Steve.

Hey, for me it's sounds like alternator bearings (inside). It make sense why it's louder then it's colder. Your alternator works harder then battery is low (after cold start) and because of it makes this sound. Easiest way is to take off belt and turn every pulley/bearing and alternator by hand, most of the time you can hear it

Any cheap multi meter (less than £10 from Ebay,) will be adequate for testing voltage and continuity on a car, but don't be tempted to use it for serious electrical work at higher voltages despite what the vendor may claim. However you will need to learn how and where to use it to avoid injury to yourself or damage to the car. That's beyond the scope of what we can do in a forum like this, so you may be better off employing somebody who knows his way around a car.

IV just bought my first ever Audi and classic. My Dad had one over 20 years ago and I thought I would follow in his footsteps. Drove 10 hours up north to sunny Scotland and gave me no problems on the way. Hope to get it running more smoothly for next summer. Does anyone have any advice on owning, driving and maintaining one? I'm a car guy but not overly confident when it comes to tinkering with cars mechanically. It's a Audi 80 16v 2.0. Thanks Chris

I would fit a new chain while I had access, to avoid doing the job a second time at a later date. Chains stretch over time until eventually they are longer than the tensioners can accomodate.