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Thanks Glyn, I always re- check the oil level on level ground, the morning after the oil is changed. It’s surprising how long it takes for all (in caps) the added oil to get down to the sump. Too late now, but……. If it were mine:- (1) Check the oil level (on level ground) before start up tomorrow morning. (2) If it is above the line, get an accurate mm rule and measure exactly how much above the line it actually is. (3) Check again after 300 miles or 3 weeks and see how much it has increased. If it has then proved to have risen, it could be due to oil dilution with diesel. Please let us know how you get on Glyn. Regards, Gareth.

So how it started (no pun intended). Drove the RS4 for about 400 miles on and off and no dramas really. 1st problem - Starter partially engaged a few times (horrible noise) then started fine. 2nd Problem - Squealing poly belt on tick over (still working but annoying.) decided to take the car off the road for a few months and do both jobs. Anyone looking to do any of these jobs be aware it a little more work then your average. 1) poly belt, jack car up and take belly pan etc off. Then you need to slide the front of the car forward, (Audi S4 4.2l alternator belt and tensioner replacement DIY by Edge Motors) Fog lights out Bumper off watch the video! easy job but make sure you have a long pole or breaker bar to take tension off belt. NEXT Starter motor, (what a !Removed! of a job) Audi RS4 B7 - 4.2 V8 - Starter Motor change One of the engine mounts Allen bolts near the exhaust is a pain but doable. Stripped and cleaned starter motor. engaging shaft was all carboned up, cleaned and lubed and works like a dream out of the car. heat shield was put back on but maybe not as well as it was when i took it off due to its age. (Might be a problem) So poly belt installed and works fine Starter motor works every time ............................. When the car is warm after a run it wont start. Clutch pedal down (audible click) and no joy, Leave the car for 10/15 mins to cool down starts straight away! Assuming the heat shield may be making the starter solenoid overheat and not sure if it tells the car not to start if its to hot? Also if car now left locked up over night it drains the battery. 1) Charged battery and it hold charge fine. leave it disconnected over night and didnt lose any charge 2) did a parasitic draw check. car unlocked and drivers door open, drawing about 4 milli amps removed all relays from under steering wheel and no change to draw. car running battery doesnt drop so alternator is charging. 3) Once locked and left it drops to 1.6 milliamps is this bad? my thoughts are before i did starter and poly belt it was fine so its something i have done. Any ideas what may be drawing? Bad earth from starter? Bad cables from starter? Heat shield hot starter sending signal? bad earth or something not on properly attached? any help would be appreciated. Plan on getting the car back on axle stands and getting access to the starter again, check all the plugs and leads wrap exhaust near the starter and try and make a better deal with the heatshield. Hopefully i notice something!

This link might help: https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a4-b8-platform-discussion-128/random-dying-cold-start-3068600/

Pleasure Glyn. We look forward to hearing of the outcome.

I’ve seen it before where an oil leak in the middle of the V has filled and ran down both sides so would recommend looking there with a borascope or sticking a camera phone as best you can around in there for any sign of oil if yours doesn’t look like the pictures

IMG_9185.mov

It’s unusual for all the injector seals to go at the same time on both banks and rather than it being oil it looks like a sludge of carbon that sprays under pressure on the manifold and inner wing. You’ll be able to here a faint ticking noise too coming from the injector. IMG_9185.mov

Hi. We have a large panel of insurers that we use. Please feel free to take a look at the below link which list all the insurer we deal with. Insurer Policy Booklets | Adrian Flux Adrian Flux Regards, Dan.

It certainly is! No matter how old the cars get the bills and parts remain expensive

So, I picked up the convertible this morning — a total bill of £420. Driving very well indeed. I've asked Norwich Audi to quote for replacing the camshaft — along with a new cam belt (it had a cam belt done when the cam was fitted, but I'm not a fan of re-tensioning important belts). I'm away on holiday for the first couple of weeks of September, so I'm going to leave it with them for that time to get the job done. Running an old Audi sometimes feels like being in a bad relationship — it's cost can be staggering — but I love the car… 😆 I'll add to this thread when I get the car back in mid-September. Mike 🙂

So, I took the convertible out this morning, keeping it in normal performance before it warmed up. After about a mile, I got the flashing glow-plug symbol, and a reduction in power. 🤔 I got to my destination, and switched off. When I restarted, the DPF warning came up, but without the glow-plug lamp, and performance was normal. Now up to normal temperatures, I drove it at 70 in fourth gear for about three miles, but on restart, the DPF symbol is still there. I sat on the driveway with the engine idling, and Carly plugged in. It came up with an odd code - something to do with intermittent signal from the seat belt circuit, and not connected to anything about the engine, so I cleared and rescanned - clean...🤔 I'm going to take it for a spin this afternoon with Carly plugged in to see if anything comes to light. I spoke to my mate at Norwich Audi, who tells me that a forced DPF re-gen is £200 - but advised me to shop around. He also mentioned, in passing, that a new DPF was £2,500... 😱 So, I've got it provisionally booked in at CAT Automotive next Friday, for investigation. Their comment was that they need to see why the DPF isn't re-genning on its own, and cure that problem, rather than just addressing the symptom and forcing a re-gen. I'll keep updating this thread - but please jump in with ideas... Cheers, Mike 😎

While I am sceptical of these fuel additives, I am open to persuasion by long term results. The treatment may solve a sticking pressure switch in the short term but I question if it can solve the more fundamental problem of the exhaust system being blocked by soot, which is what the DPF switch is telling you. If the treatment fails to work I understand it is possible to induce an exhaust regeneration with VCDS or similar equipment. Others here may be able to confirm this point.