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Good way to start after the Bank Holiday then. As you probably know, replace shock absorbers in pairs across the same axle, and tighten the rear mountings when the car is back on the ground - not jacked up. If you need advice on where to possibly get the parts at reasonable cost then please come back to us. Regards, Gareth.

Hi Gareth/Clifford, the faulty temperature sensor would have a massive bearing on the oil level as the ECU thinks the actual temperature is seventy degrees therefore the ECU will increase the amount of fuel injected to try and bring the engine up to the optimum operating temperature, the engine is physically up to temperature therefore the over fuel will cause oil dilution thus raising the level, me personally I would be changing the oil again Pronto as diluted oil causes extra bearing wear as it has now become abrasive. Steve.

That looks great

Hi all, Just joined the forums so, firstly, before I go posting on other subjects, would like to introduce myself. I'm Russ and live just outside Blackpool. Until a few weeks ago, I was the owner of a Citroen Grand C4 Picasso for approx 7 years. I was thinking of making the jump to a Q5 maybe in a couple of years time (Q5 due to the size as we like to go camping with trailer etc, have dogs and also the missus loves shopping so need the boot space 😀). However, somebody reversing out of a parking space in a car park saw the C4 being written off so we decided to make the jump to the Q5 now. I purchased a 2019 2.0TDi S-Line Black Edition in Manhattan Grey a few weeks ago and love it, a different level of drive to the C4. Hoping to read other people's experience with the Q5, pick their brains on issues and, maybe one day, be able to add my own knowledge to people's queries. But, for now, I have some learning to do 😂

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 looks lovely.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 looks lovely.

It is a pinch bolt and yes it’s notorious. Aluminium strut and steel bolt, so plenty oxide corrosion. There are a few ways to remove. The main dealer will have some fancy tool to press it out. Independents possibly use a tool made by Klann. For me, spray penetrating release on it, PlusGas or similar a few days before. Heat too. The top arm balljoints will be toast anyway. The key is to get the head to rotate, even a little. Some cut off the head, then add washers to the nut end and draw it out. However tempting, do not hit it with a hammer. All you will do is mushroom the thread, then it’s going nowhere. I have an air hammer, so particular pressure helps to vibrate the corrosion free. Laser also make a tool, relatively cheap that you can use as a punch. Again with the cuts on the strut, however tempting, don’t get in about with an oversized flathead screwdriver, use compressed air, a pick and plenty penetrating fluid. Easy does it. Youll need a new pinch bolt. Use ceramic grease or anti-seize before refitting. Search Dave Sterl video for how to.

Sorry no update for a while been in the NHS hotel, Anyway pro boost ecu is back and fitted have only done just over 500 miles on it so far but with a big grin on my face every time I drive it, No engine light only code I did have early on was evap system (unrelated and sorted with new valve £25) Low down torque is better and will red line easily so have to say worth the effort and at a third of what the inlet rebuild would of cost me I am well happy. Got to learn to drive a revy petrol again after months of driving a diesel around at 1500 rpm😁