Leaderboard

You'll need a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. Or get an auto electrician to take a look. It could be a wiring issue from where the loom clips into the seat but my bet would be on a knackered seat heating element.

Any update for the forum Steven?

I'm sure Audi genuine roof rails are not bonded to the car and are bolted on. Have you tried eBay?

My rear water jet stopped working so I had to take the car to my local tech, she had lots of fun. Also, she fits perfectly standing up in the booth😂.

This will be a waiting game, especially if it’s low mileage. Even on average mileage, on a 2018 car you’re looking at 70k. Then it’s specification. If V6, I assume it’s 272PS engine, Tiptronic box, etc. Consider the A6 Allroad, again rare, but they do come up time to time. Also be prepared to travel. In your favour, most of these cars are down south.

Ok, think I understand, all self inflicted. My first German car after many years of US/Japan vehicle. Bottom line is the surface the car was parked on was not flat but little less that 5deg slope. That was enough to push the oil to one side and possible pile up in the valve cover with oil getting past valve stem seals. When I measured over full, is was parked opposite. I ultimately drained over 7 qts from it. Running it a bit, the smoking continues to decline. All my other cars that have been parked in the sloped area never showed the drastic change on the stick. Lesson learned, dipstick only on flat surface for Audi.

Hi VCDS is the best possible thing you could buy, I have it and despite its price its amazing the support site is beyond helpful, on your year of Audi there wont be anything you can't adapt or reprogram, I personally would adapt everything you have moved or cleaned/replaced, it should also put the light out, just take it with you when you go for your inspection and if the light is on clear it before the inspection as it is unlikely to return immediately as all these faults require a certain amount of drive cycles before the ECU cottons on to the fact the fault is still there, you may well find that a relearn on the pressure sensor cures it but either way it will buy you time to decide what you want to do. Steve.

Can someone explain why members join, post their plea for free advice, then can’t be ‘back sided’ to answer simple questions to aid those trying to help them? Do we really need these inconsiderate people? No, we don’t.

Hello David, Very sorry to hear about the wallet denting issue, but pleased you were able to fix it, and a special thank you for letting others know what the problem was. Trust you and yours have a good Christmas. Kind regards, Gareth.

For anyone with the same issue I had to replace the TCM. £1600 for the part alone. You can get refurbished units but heard mixed reviews. On top of that you will need to do a service as the unit is internal to the transmission.

Yes there are a few of us. That's not to say any are available or able to help with your particular problem at the moment, so best to wait a couple of days. Patience is a virtue.

Hi never been a fan of auto boxes, I have been told numerous times by my fellow cabbies that I dont know what I am missing, my manual had done over 270k and apart from a couple of oil changes was fine, if it is the Mechatronic unit and you need to replace it you will have to get exactly the same part number as you have already as they fitted about nine different types to these boxes, but there are companies that will refurb your own unit cheaply and guarantee the repair, the main cause of most failures are the raft of cheap badge engineered filters from Eastern Europe, they collapse early on in their service life and let all the cr@p into the valve blocks. Steve.

Just to let you know that I have resolved the issue. So with the new BCM installed I checked if the light worked in the right hand side but this time it didn’t, so I tried the right hand cluster in the left and it worked. Weird especially as the left worked in the right with the old BCM. Therefore I was pretty sure now that cluster was defective. So I tried the right cluster in the left and it worked confirming my hypothesis. But still a bit puzzled I decided to compare the voltages on the outer cluster pins 2, 3 & 4. left outer connector (old BCM) pin 3 - 0.48v pin 5 - 0v pin 4 - 0.7v pin 2 - 0.7v Right outer connector pin 3 - 0.48v pin 5 - 0v pin 4 - 0.48v pin 4 - 0.48v With the new BCM the voltages on the left where the same as the right 0.48 V which concluded that the BCM and light cluster were both defective. On close inspection the left light has some water in it which probably caused the LED circuit to short out which induced a fault on the BCM. However I believe this was intermittent because it worked on the right hand side during my initial fault finding and that’s what made the whole fault finding process that much more complicated. so I picked up a new cluster from a breaker and hey presto it’s now working. This would have been a lot easier to troubleshoot if I knew what the voltages were supposed to be on the tail light connectors so I hope this may help someone else out one day.