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The 3.0 TDi is a great engine, my favourite. I've had all versions back to the A6 Allroad, up to the S4 Avant, and currently have an A8 TDI, which is ridiculously economical on a run. My two bits of advice are that with high mileage, the EGR cooler can need swapping, and the fuel injectors can go bad (6 of at £200/250 each for the correct ones) but my A6 didn't need any of these until 158k on the clock. Gearbox oil change is definitely worth doing on an auto (lots of oil!) But your manual is less critical. I have religiously used Miller's Diesel Eco Power Max for years, adding a bit every few tanks, and never had an issue with anything 'mechanical'. A lot of people swear by it, and others will say its snake oil, but I agree with the former. They are solid engines - I had a Revo remap done on the Allroad at 120,000 miles which brought it safely up from 240bhp to the 286 /282 I now have in my A8. Enjoy !

Coming from a belt-driven 2.0 TDI to chain driven 3.0 V6, then I would recommend changing the oil a bit more frequently. You’ll be familiar with cam belt and water pump expense, every 5 years, and oil changes every 8-10k miles. I’d recommend oil changes every 5-7k miles and go easy on the throttle until it gets to operating temperature. On a manual transmission, treat it to a gear oil change by 100k to 120k miles including rear diff. Other than that, run a can of Forte diesel conditioner through it occasionally and renew fuel filter every 20k miles.

Hi just about everything, seized wheel bearings, seized brakes does the engine run/turn by hand, rust on the suspension springs, deteriorated rubber suspension bushes, rust on the floor pan, water on the inside under the carpets as nothing terminates modules faster than moisture, perished boot/window rubbers, fuel pumps working, the list is endless on a vehicle of that age especially if its been stored. Steve.

Hi Billy dont go within a hundred miles of a tuning box, I have TDI tuning up the road from me and even they admit how they work, they fit in between the fuel rail temperature sensor and its plug, their function is to tell the ECU that the engine temperature is still low therefore the ECU will keep the fuelling high to achieve operating temperature, yes it goes better with the extra fuel but the bit they dont want to tell is that physically when the engine is fully warmed the excess fuel is not all burnt and will hang around the sides of the swirl bowl on the piston, these larger droplets are dragged down the bore and in to your oil causing dilution and worse case scenario bore wash with added piston slap, thats why they recommend 5k oil changes but that wont stop the end result. Steve.

Hello Elroy, First things first:- Have you checked that you are getting a good 12v supply to the light unit? If not, I would certainly check that and the earth connections before spending any money. If you are getting a good consistent 12v supply, then I think you are into buying another unit - new or secondhand. If you are not getting 12v, then check for wire breakage/ damage within the flexible harness section twixt the body and the tailgate. Please let us know how you get on. Have a good Christmas, Regards, Gareth.

Not positive, but believe they come on only when you open a door.