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Apologies for the gripe, but the forum has recently suffered from a spate of what can be termed ‘Post and Run’ new members, who seem to think it’s perfectly acceptable to post a plea for help, and simply not return to view the help given. In a more diluted form, help is offered, but is very rarely acknowledged even via. a simple press of the Like button, leave alone a posted Thank You. The last part of the gripe is that we frequently have to ask for additional information, and this extra detail often never materialises. Please remember, everyone who posts replies do so without payment, but it certainly does cost them in time - in terms of the Moderators and Admin back up - a lot of time. So a special plea to all on here who post needing help:- please be respectful enough to acknowledge any help given, rather than simply accept it as a no-cost, no time of yours, free advice service. It’s wearing thin folks, so if you want to retain this service, please respect and acknowledge its benefits. Thank you all for reading this, and above all, agreeing to adhere to the respect that is needed to be shown. Kind regards, On behalf of the Moderators. Please note:- This request is to all members, not just new ones.

good afternoon I would not want to post it here just in case it is against the forum's rules. but all I can tell you is that a Google search found the APK for my Android phone and is free I can't update it. but says ultimate vag and has allowed me to do a lot of things to about 10 cars at work. there is a YouTube guy that does a guide on about 20 different OBD11 tools and how some of them are a scam like the Carly one where it clearly states you are paying a membership which you have to pay each year or something and he does not recommend getting it

i have one and cracked app so i get all settings

Awesome. Thank you, getting low on fuel now so I’ll fill up with some premium unleaded at a complete different garage and see!

Pinking, or pre-ignition, is not dependant on engine speed, instead it depends on engine load hence it happens when accelerating. A fuel mixture that is too weak or a spark that is too advanced will cause pinking. Modern engines normally detect that pinking and automatically adjust the ECU output accordingly. That's not to say your engine is definitely pinking because we can not hear the sound, but it is a possibility.

That video is a blown turbo like whistles or whirrs when you rev it, engine management light on and losing oil, I have none of those symptoms. I have exact match to your first post. No worries if you didn't get to the bottom of it mate, thanks for your message though

Mine just seems to over run on starter motor, prob 2 secs after engine fires. Seen others saying it's as starter motor wears the engagement onto the fly wheel doesn't release and withdraw as quick as it should, which sounds like makes sense. Mentions recondition or replace starter just wanted to see if you got yours sorted as either way over £150 if a simple fix possible

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 You'll find that most soft top roofs are glued as well as stitched these days. I guess the key question is, what's the warranty on the replacement roof?

You're welcome, sorry I can't help more.

Sorry Hamza, I will not open links to untrusted sources, however if the tyres are as bad as you describe I have no doubt they are the cause of the noise.

Is there any damage to the summer tyres, or a foreign body such as a stone jammed in the tread? Are they even at the correct pressure?

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 Check for wet carpets in front footwells which is often due to a broken pollen filter housing or blocked battery tray drains. This water can damage the CCM which is under the passenger footwells carpet. The CCM controls a lot of electrical functions so make sure all electrical items work. Looks stunning to be fair. Service history is key for the 2.5tdi. People say they're unreliable but this is often because people have failed to keep up on regular maintenance. My A6 2.5tdi had done 344k miles before engine expired. Regarding the gearbox, make sure it's been serviced and gear changes are smooth. Regarding the ingenium engine my wife has a Jag xe with this engine so fully aware of the issues.

Thank you for your help, Daveyboy. I've taken careful note of those sources for locks that you gave me but I THINK I've solved it without a new lock! I noticed yesterday that the lock was ticking when both the 'lock' and 'unlock' were pressed on the fob so this made me think (hope) that it was a mechanical problem rather than an electrical one. So I cleaned the mechanisms all out with one of those modern degreasers - actually WD40 degreaser. I put it all back together this morning after re-oiling and it works. My 79 year old eyesight and fingers aren't ideal for this sort of thing but I managed to re-connect the door handle operating rod in the correct place after a couple of false starts. I'll keep my fingers crossed. There are eight pins in the socket but only six in the plug but I'd still dearly like to know why six wires are needed for a simple open/close mechanism! I believe there are two, maybe three micro-switches in the electrics and the usual problem is that the connections to one or more of these become 'dry' or a little cracked. Very often simply resoldering the connections works apparently. They are simply (and cheaply) soldered in to the board and it's easy to imagine that they flex a little every time the switch is operated and eventually something gives. The micro-switches are, I believe, something to do with sending signals back to ECU about the status of the door: locked/ unlocked/ shut/ open etc. Thanks again.

And thank you guys for all your help on this situation. I really appreciate all the advise given to me.

My decision is still undecided but if it’s going to be too much headache then I’ll probably end up not changing the engine. I just needed some advise and guidance before I make a decision.

That looks identical! Thank you. I've sent the seller the Reg and VIN number to check. It's much cheaper than the German one (that didn't fit) too!

Have you had the HPFP checked? This can lead to over fueling but the injectors should be able to cope. The fuel return line coul be at fault also

There is a consumer delay of about 15-20 minutes, from when you turn off the ignition or unlock the doors. You can see this by either opening the boot and watching the light turn off or removing the key after a journey and waiting for the interior cabin lights to turn off. I have a broken light in the glove box, the switch broke and the lamp eventually burnt out, this caused a parasitic drain till it broke. Only noticed when I swapped the concert radio for a new unit.

Many thanks again.

I can't help on that score with any certainty. It might be a separate heat exchanger mounted behind the main radiator, or it might be integrated into the radiator. Let's hope somebody more knowledgeable will chip in.

Daren. You seem to have covered the obvious causes of low oil pressure. I think it is significant that the low pressure only happens after hard acceleration when the oil would get hotter than normal, so I wonder if there is a restriction in the oil cooler, assuming you have one.

Yes Alan.

Hi. New to the group (based in Edinburgh) having bought a 2000 2.8 Final Edition just under a year ago. Not had much chance to drive it as it was bought as a project but the head gasket went the day I got it and I only managed to have the car returned early December 2024. Fun starts now!

You could alternatively get a remap which does an adblue delete? Would cost around £300-500 I think