Stevey Y

Hi it is almost certainly the mechanical part of the calliper that is driven by the EPB motor is sheared/seized, from my understanding and professional advice it is possible to buy the calliper minus the drive motor and providing the drive motor has not been damaged that should cure it. Steve.

Hi I agree with Steve and Gareth on both options, can you specify what has failed as if its a pipe its either repairable or substituted with a different material with a similar bore, if you look at it I wouldn't mind betting your system is exactly the same as the A4/A5/A6 I think its a safe bet as VAGs love of globalisation means one part fits a load of other models, I to am a cabbie and I know exactly where you are coming from, I feel for you I really do, no car is like someone has cut your throat financially, I have come across this none in the country for your vehicle CR@P loads of times as with my engine mounts, ended up buying FEBI units which also fitted the A4 with a CNHA engine, oh no I was told by the main stealer they wont last, 70k later says no difference. If you get in a jam just get the adblue mapped out until you can get the parts its a lot cheaper than being off the road for six months. Steve.

Hi when draining the sump its always a good idea to remove the filler cap as this can cause a negative vacuum and stop the oil from draining, you find this with the Ford DW engines that have a plastic flat sump and a big plastic drain plug Steve.

Hi at a rough guess its a bad connection or corroded wires running to the plug that powers the unit, I have to agree with Gareth that jet washes are normally the culprit as they get water in to places it wouldn't usually get in to and under high pressure at that. Steve.

Hi I have never bought a refurbished injector off eBay my first port of call is always United Diesels in the U.K, not only do they have a phone number but you always get a ton of good advice and any refurbished items always arrive in airtight packaging and look brand new you also get any deposit back in record time, most eBay ratings are based on friend and family reviews, the refurbishment of Piezo injectors like I think yours are requires a very special knowledge and equipment, Steve.

Hi I think you will find thats the return to the tank looking at the middle picture I would say the infeed is the large banjo bolt to the right of the the pump, if you can't see the fuel moving through the return pipe that would suggest the lift pump, you will always see air bubbles in the clear pipe as thats the HPFP self bleeding and if the HPFP was getting fuel the bubble would move when cranking. Steve.

Hi most of the dates for these fault codes are prehistoric so I would delete the lot I bet they wont return, my guess would be the low pressure fuel pump in the tank as this manifests itself as a high pressure pump issue as the low pressure side is not supplying enough fuel, easy to diagnose as if you get a container with about a litre of fuel and a suitable length of fuel hose and connect the hose to the intake side of the high pressure fuel pump with the container end elevated above the pump it should start if my theory is correct, before cranking give it a squirt of easy start just to get it going so the pump sucks fuel. Steve.

Hi the other route is to have an aftermarket regulator fitted, these are adjustable and are pretty much made to fit any car, I did that mod with an old Mini I had that wouldn't pass an MOT because of lack of brake pressure at the rear so just before every MOT I had to remove the guts from the regulator so it passed, lots of fun driving back in the rain with a tail happy car, finally bit the bullet and bought an aftermarket retro fit adjustable and never looked back. Steve.

Hi Jack just been on eBay and they have loads of them, what you really need is a photograph of the item or the part number on the old unit, looks like these fail fairly regularly as most of the ones I looked at covered from 1990-1999, try parts in motion on the net and see if they can match one to your car using your VIN number. Steve.

Hi it is still possible its a wrong un try fitting the old one and see what happens if its the same you could have a wiring problem at the plug on the main loom where it connects to the sensor. Steve.

Hi if you pull the wire off of the pressure sensor and it runs chances are it is the sensor gone as it has a default position for starting manually but is taking no signal voltage as its had it . Steve.

Hi I would start by replacing the valve on the front of the servo about ten mins work there is a massive post about these units on the forum under BAKE SERVO RESTRICTED other than that it could be a battery problem. Steve.

Hi I would say on the exhaust before the catalytic converter, normally a 19mm fixing with a wire cable in the middle. Steve.

Hi its possible that you have a dodgy sensor, not unknown, I have pulled them out of a new box and fitted them and had the same result, avoid NAPA or any of the own brand stuff on eBay you can't go wrong with a bit of FEBI/HELLA/BOSCH they might be a bit dearer but when fitted you will see where the extra money went. Steve.

Hi it depends on what your perception of expensive, the only other way round it is to get the journals white metal sprayed or inserts fitted by an engineers and a new camshaft, don't know how much that would be, a lesson again in the importance of oil pressure as it only has to be weak for a small amount of time for any metal to metal surface to pick up and score itself. Steve.

Hi re check the cam belt timing or did it run fine after the belt was changed and only play up after the sensor change. Steve.

Hi you are better off replacing the entire unit not to difficult, not to expensive, but make sure you buy a new rubber grommet as that deteriorates with age and give it a liberal coating of silicone grease when refitting grommet they tend to last longer, thats probably where your leak is. Steve.

Hi remove the return pipe from the rail to the filter and see if there is fuel being returned if not it sounds like a lift pump problem, but in saying that I think you need an in depth scan on something like VCDS/Snap on to rule outing underlying cause that your existing reader may not pick up. Steve.

Hi get someone to push the flap closed while you pull the emergency release, keep it pulled and then get the other guy to release the flap. Steve.

Hi it could be the level sensor as Steve said these are attached to the lift pump in the rear under the rear seat I believe and are prone to getting perforated or the level sensor itself is faulty, try taking the pump out and lifting the float manually to see if the light goes out, if not it is because the graduation unit [electrical] has given up the ghost in which case it all comes as one unit. Steve.

Hi no such thing as a normal Audi parts quote or labour come to that and being as they source the parts from outside suppliers Bosch/Valeo it might be worth getting the part number and having a trawl on the net its probably less than half price they want. Steve.

Hi they only did front wheel drive/Quattro, if it is a Quattro it will have a badge to that effect on the tailgate other than that look underneath for a prop shaft which goes to the rear Haldex unit it will also have driveshafts on the rear, why not if its manual, in my considered opinion the manual box is better and you get far less problems than the power robbing auto units. Steve.

Hi did you recode the new battery to the car. Steve.

Hi think the unit will have to be re coded to the car unless its the same part number as the old unit. Steve.

Hi hopefully it was a good brand AGM battery you replaced it with other than that it could be the battery energy module gone wonky, best policy is get the car scanned for faults you may get a better idea of whats going on especially if they clear the old and new codes after as sometimes they will reappear as the ECU has logged them. Steve.