spartacus 68

What’s the history on the engine prior to the injectors blowing? Not sure about codes. ideally you need VCDS to see instance of faults, if historical or as a result of once the injectors blow off. Potentially linked to EGR, etc. I’ve read one instance, think it was in a VW, where they enlarged M6 to M8 on the clamp bolt, but that’s not the case here, it’s actually shearing off. Area needs to meticulously clean including injector bores ensuring the old copper seals are removed. Also noticed there’s a ‘o’ ring seal on the injectors. Use new stretch bolt and torque to specification. Check out Dave Sterl, this is on 2.0TDI CJCA engine.

Not used LLL Parts, but useful for part numbers. Used Autodoc. Allow at least 10 days for delivery.

How did you get on with the rear spring mount? I did it on B8 and was a lot simpler than B9. They tend to go every 3-4 years. Leave it and you risk breaking a spring. Regards discs - if its got a lip, then yes, I would say it's worth changing discs and pads too. At the end of the day the A6 isn't lightweight, so it's all relative. Depends what was on from new. I don't rate Brembo any more - so fitted Zimmermann.

No panoramic.

Yes, you can order a RS6 without panoramic, but they are going to be relatively rare. Audi introduced packaged trim levels and top of the range Vorsprung edition has all the bells and whistles, and so it should on a £120k+ car. Most people opt for the panoramic as it lightens the interior. On the B8 A4 range, sunroofs used to leak like a sieve. Part was made by Webasto and has an inherent design flaw. Not heard of issues with B9 A4 range or C8 A6. £90k buys you a 24 plate with less than 5k miles in Dundee. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202409073770112?sort=relevance&searchId=a80236fe-bdda-48b7-9f45-bfedb61a576c&advertising-location=at_cars&make=Audi&model=RS6 Avant&page=1&postcode=AB33 8UA&fromsra

Mileage will be the largest contributor, but age, weather, and typical commute will take its toll. Give you an example, my wife’s i3 REx has regenerative braking, so the discs or pads are hardly used. That said we live in Scotland, so the discs take a beating with road salt. I’ve changed them twice (2015 build) with Textar (BMW OE). Car on 90k miles. Good opportunity to strip down brake sliders, check rubber dust boots, ceramic paste on pad backs, etc On a 2020 A6 it would be worth a brake strip down even if the pads and discs look fine. You’ll need VCDS for rear electro mechanical handbrake. Will be due brake fluid change too. If discs have a lip, then they will be due. Any scoring too. Front brake carrier bolts are known to seize. Not unique to A6, on A4 platform too due to oxide corrosion.

Laser make conical locking wheel nut extraction sockets. Find one that fits over it, hammer on (needs to be tight) with lump hammer, and extract. Better with extension breaker bar than a power tool. If you’re not confident, just take it to a garage.

What are you scanning the car with? Ideally need VCDS to pulled logged errors. Is the coolant circulating? Any issue with overheating before car turns off? Also check battery voltage, ESC could be linked to failing battery.

Can’t answer your question directly, but having looked at subframes the part number will only be visible one you drop it. Chances are it will have been revised (last letter) an over the model production. Look on LLL Parts to cross reference. You’ll need new subframe bolts.

Could be anything. You say noise increases with wheel rotation. Inner or outer driveshaft CV boots, worn auxilliary drive belt pulley bearing. If clutch feels fine (assuming it’s manual), then gearbox probably okay, unless biting point feels high and any vibration through clutch?There’s also possibility of flywheel. Again guessing. A good mechanic will be able to pinpoint that quite quickly.

Bound to be unrelated. Stick a multi-meter on the battery to check it's not on the way out. Should be around 12.4v.

Can we make him an offer?

I'm sure a specialist trimmer can fix. If the rest of the roof is in good condition, then you would need to source glass and have it glued in. They will likely need the car for a couple of days. There are a few second hand convertible units I've seen, but to be honest they have grubby headliners, and you've no idea if the mechanical side works give these parts are pretty niche anyway and how long they have been sitting in a warehouse somewhere. Double check against here: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A3CA/778/8/871/871000 From what I can see - replacement glass won't be available from Audi - but you might be able to obtain via Saint Gobain/Pilkington who produce glass units for manufacturers. It will have integral antenna (GPS/radio), green tint, heated, etc. Read a couple of threads where Bolton Interiors were mentioned. Worth a call.

Ideally car needs scanned with VCDS to see if there's error codes attached. Next I'd look at camera/handle module to see there's no water ingress. Valeo rear wipers are known to fail sending windscreen washer fluid into tailgate. Will mean stripping out rear tailgate trim - there are YouTube videos online. I don't know specifically about Q7 nut on A4 it's usually a couple of torx screws and metal clips. Anti-marring trim tools are useful to get purchase.

Audi are tight when it comes to extras. They cut back on headlamp washers, door open warning lights, and rear parking cameras, bear in mind this is for a £40k+ car. They have gone down the bundled option route for a few years, with sound pack, vision pack, tech pack. You can also re-mortgage your house for 'all extras fitted' for a Vorsprung edition in the future. For £146 - your rear seat passengers can have a holder for their hot chocolates and sprinkles. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/176468204425?chn=ps&_ul=GB&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=176468204425&targetid=2361400006200&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9180599&poi=&campaignid=21697363421&mkgroupid=170400390467&rlsatarget=pla-2361400006200&abcId=10027088&merchantid=5432646701&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA-ty8BhA_EiwAkyoa3yBQTWPIdESFzSne-V0RrcR_znmYRdo2JGde4vsxVMhzIdmauLno8BoCqacQAvD_BwE

If you scan the car with VCDS it will identify if an actuator flap is faulty. Sometimes it’s mechanical, as in the nylon teeth on the actuator flap that the little electric motor drives is broken, or the motor itself is damaged. Of course it’s usually buried deep in the dash. VCDS will identify module, and from there you can search YouTube for disassembly. Usually involves removing glovebox, trim and contorting yourself in an awkward position to access.

Pretty sure part is 8W0857240 which is wing mirror frame. Double check yourself on LLL parts. There may be variations for auto-fold, but I doubt it. Part is £50. https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/20034916663

Anything can be retrofitted, it depends how deep your pockets are. My understanding is that it uses the same wiring, however genuine matrix headlight units could be at least £2k each. You can get second hand, but then you’re dealing with breaker yards, and condition is everything, and they are around £900 each. They are linked to the light self levelling depending on load, which should already be in place with the existing LED headlights. Sensors are usually on front passenger and rear passenger side suspension. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/ Add in, there’s an integral camera as part of the rear view mirror, plus coding. I think this is more than VCDS can handle, and likely you’d need access to ODIS dealer level software and datasets for the lights. Probably more a specialist job for an experienced retrofitter. That’s a very expensive upgrade. I read something similar for someone who didn’t like the standard sound in their B9 A4, and wanted Bang and Olufson system. Parts list was huge, plus they ended up practically dismantling the car to fit it. Granted this upgrade would be easier, but the cost will likely be prohibitive. My old B8 A4 Allroad had bi-xenon headlights. Fantastic lights, and better than my B9 Allroad with LED headlights in certain situations. Audi started cutting back on extras such as headlamp washers, and even door open warning lamps, again, both can be retrofitted. I don’t know enough about LED, but maybe with you can get upgraded LED bulbs? That would be worth investigating.

I've got a Draper bleeder, but to be honest a two person approach (one pressing the brake) is better than vacuum system. Get plenty DOT 4 brake fluid, it's relatively inexpensive. Also make sure the silicone tube that you use from the bleed nipple to the used fluid reservoir is on tight. Top up the brake fluid reservoir regularly so as not to draw in more air. Use a proper brake nipple spanner, so there's no mucking about when closing off. You're right - start at the caliper furthest from brake fluid reservoir. Regardless if you're not seeing bubbles, press brakes around 15-20 times, then close off, move to next wheel and repeat. Double check brake hoses too. It they have been clamped for any reason they may have collapsed or deteriorated. Running the car will pressurise the system - so I would use that approach too.

Add my tuppence worth in. If diesel and this has been mentioned, then water-pump, cambelt should have been done. Generally speaking, apply 5 years or 60k miles on 4-cylinder engines. Most engines are interference and if it snaps, then it's expensive to repair. This could be a potential deal-breaker if you find the right car. Audi might even quote a recommended mileage level in the future, but by that point the car is out of warranty. VAG are constantly revising their belt intervals - so best to enquire. Quick scan on Audi Approved Used website, shows just 1 vehicle and it's a less than desirable saloon 1.6TDi in black at £10,700 with 84k miles. The 1.6TDi is a bit agricultural and old technology now. Approved Audi does have some benefits and you have peace of mind during the warranty period, which is usually 1 year, but sometimes if buying with their finance they'll make it 2 years and add in free servicing. In addition you can extend warranty buy buying an additional year. If you can increase your budget just marginally then £13k gets you a 1.5 TFSi Sportback in white on an 18 plate with 41k miles and finished in white. The 1.5TSi engine was introduced in 2016 and I think the belt is replaced on mileage of 180k miles or 15 years. Also no pulleys to line up the crank, so it's a sophisticated dealer-only tool the main dealer will use wired to a laptop. Here's how I approach buying cars if it's any help. Model, colour, specification, mileage, budget and of course history. Specification is important. As if it doesn't have it, then it's expensive to retro-fit. So if LED headlights are non negotiable over standard halogen, or heated seats, or an auto-box, or reversing camera, then add into your search. Poverty-spec cars will lose their appeal quite quickly. Mileage wise I'd be looking at around 50k miles, given we had lock-down during covid. Good luck with your search. Watch third-party warranties from independent dealers. They are so heavily loaded toward the dealer, such as service car every 6 months or 6,000 miles, and difficult to claim against.

Genuine Audi Q8 suspension airbag unit will be over £1k for fronts. Doubt it's the compressor as it's going back to normal ride height on start-up, and likely to be the air suspension unit or the fixing point where the tube enters the unit via a union. These units, although I'm no expert wouldn't need to be fitted as pairs as per normal coil-spring set-up. Possible to find used parts but on a 2020 vehicle but personally I'd opt for new given you have labour to fit. There are after-market parts from reputable makers who probably make them for Audi anyway, but it's all about compatibility. Suspect there's some sort of configuration once a new part is fitted - again access to VCDS to scan will reveal. You should be able to find part number here: https://www.lllparts.co.uk/

No disrespect to Lidl and your new OBD reader, but you get what you pay for. You’ve bought an A6 Allroad which retailed new in 2015 from around £45k. Technically it boasts air suspension, bi-xenon headlights and a whole multitude of onboard diagnostics as standard, who am I to argue if you bought tea lights, XL jogger bottoms and the OBD reader all from the middle aisle! 😜 Appreciate you’re not spanner handy, but VAGcom or VCDS from Ross Tech is dealer standard software. Things have moved on. Dealers now use things like ODIS. Part of this is to remove DIY ability to access car data, and allows for engine management tuning, programming and so forth. In addition it stops the proliferation of stolen or broken parts being circulated as they are security protected and ODIS allows for parts to be read and enabled. Back to VCDS, cheapest you can buy is 3 VIN enthusiast package, roughly £225 plus a laptop to run it on. You get genuine OBN reader cable and unlimited updates from RossTech. You can configure this for three cars. You can use it across Audi, VW, Skoda, etc. even the OBD device will receive hardware updates. What can you do with it? Scan the car. At Audi they will charge you at least £120 for the same service. This scans all the modules on the car, brakes, air conditioning, air bags, electrics, engine, etc. It reveals faults, the time it was first registered and even the number of occasions if it’s logged multiple times. I personally think it’s money well spent. I’m spanner handy so things like priming the fuel pump, releasing the rear electro-mechanical handbrake for changing pads and discs, re-learning sunroof or tailgate module if there’s been any work done. Coding battery, enabling revised functions, clearing TDC error codes or management lights, etc. Fault finding its critical, otherwise you can throw parts at a car and find it’s not resolved. After a service you can reset oil service, etc. If you rely on third parties, whether main dealer or Indy, then of course they will do this after a service, but diagnostics are an integral part of servicing now. Thought I’d throw it into the mix as it seems the A6 Allroad should be around for a few years.

If the chrome has deteriorated they might not be worth saving, but you need to wash them first with mild detergent to see what you're dealing with. I see tar spots flung up from the rear wheels, so you can dissolve with a damp microfibre cloth and a dab of petrol. Wear nitrile gloves. in terms of bringing back the polish look, then Autosol paste applied with damp microfibre then buffed off gives good results.

Ideally you need to get the car scanned with VCDS. There might be other codes logged that can help pinpoint what’s going on. My experience of turbos, 2012 A4 Allroad with under 70k miles went into limp mode. Ordinarily I would have stripped it down myself, but pointless cleaning, given labour to get to it. The exhaust manifold nuts can be a sod without induction heater. In addition the oil feed pipe to it needs to be replaced as the union nut rarely goes back on properly, and this is usually down the back of the engine. Bypass this and you risk an oil leak. There’s also an actuator on there. This is normally set up with the turbo on the bench. It can be tested with a vacuum. Any cleaners likely to be short lived. When I stripped the turbo down on mine it had carbon build up. Also one of the vanes on the turbine was bent. Normal to do oil and filter change as a matter of course when fitting. Check out Turbo-diesel.co.uk. They will have Garrett turbos, BorgWarner, new in a box, or you could opt for refurbished. Main dealer will use exactly the same part but boxed Audi and daft price. You’ll also need exhaust gasket kit.

It is cam chain. No reason to replace unless you have rattle at start up. Regular oil and filter changes will help keep the engine in good condition, ideally around 8k miles. Ignore long life service regimes, that’s what kills engines. If for arguments sake it needed replacement chains, guides, sprockets and tensioners, it’s an engine out job. Check out VAG Technic on YouTube. On performance Audi RS and S models, they are constantly stripping them down due to premature fault with rocker arms and needle bearings. In terms of maintenance then pretty sure this is 218 is S Tronic 7-speed box. Needs gear oil and filter change every 40k miles. Fuel filter every 20k miles. Once you get to 100k miles, treat rear diff to a fluid change. Worth investing in VCDS even if you’re not spanner handy, as will pinpoint fault codes, and useful for things like coding battery, etc. Gave up on main dealers years ago due to ludicrous costs. Find a trusted garage that knows these cars inside out. It’s got air suspension which is pretty robust.