spartacus 68

If it is chain rattle then it’s linked to long service intervals potentially at the start if the car’s life. The oil viscosity and lubrication properties are diminished by 8k miles, never mind 18k miles. 5w30 will come out like water when draining. What is history of servicing please? Before committing to any repair, you might want to speak to VAG Technic (Dudley) or Decimal Tenths (Newcastle) first. They regularly drop engines and repair tappets (worn needle bearings), stretched chains or slap (worn chain sprockets or broken plastic guides). The figure of £2.2k seems cheap, this is normally double given labour and genuine parts cost. First thing to do would be to drop oil and see if any contaminants. They also check oil filter for any metal filings or swarf. If that all checks out they can remove rocker covers to view camshafts. You can possibly see camshaft wear with endoscope, but only partial view, or even get a stethoscope to the back to listen to see if that reveals more. Chains are meant to be for life of car, but it’s all down to service history and use unfortunately.

Sounds fine, although idle seems a little fast. Possibly a little tappity, when was oil change last done? Oil specification?

I’m trying to work out the history of the car. What’s the mileage? Why was the ECU changed? For the record, replacing an ECU or even repairing it is unusual to say the least. What’s the service regime like? If it’s been on long service intervals every 18k miles then wear could have happened before you bought it. Personally speaking, I would opt for a new battery. In the scale of things it’s a couple of hundred pounds. It will need coded in. Ask the garage for a full VCDS scan to see what’s going on. You’ll need the ECU fitted again before that can commence. I understand the garage’s reluctance to start the car without understanding what’s going on, hence being able to turn over the engine.

5th floor of a multi-storey - I feel for Nicole here, but I doubt this is a flatbed. Most multi-stories are height restricted, and this won’t have been an easy recovery as they are usually tight as a gnat’s chuff. Quattros don’t even like odd tyre depth front and rear as it can overwind the diff. Let’s assume it was a dolly. To be honest the driver should be aware of this if they are in the business of recovering vehicles. Let’s also assume it’s not damaged as would probably have been short journey to specialist. If it’s skipped a tooth that wouldn’t explain no start? If it has skipped a tooth, then I would still expect it to turn over, but no start. There are chain tensioners, plus this is an engine out job to fit, plus guides, etc. I wouldn’t start pulling injectors quite yet.

The quality of cable does matter. Try a factory reset on the MMI system to get rid of any stored phones data.

Can’t see it being an engine seized situation if it was parked up. Assume oil level was checked recently? if mechanic pulls injectors, you’ll need new stretch bolts and sealing washers. Importantly, you said car was towed? Quattros can’t be towed, well they can if all four wheels on the ground, but not with a dolly or better still flatbed, otherwise you risk damaging the diff. Battery, if it’s older than 6-7 years, replace it. The Q7 is a big old lump and the electrics are fussy with ECU. Check fuses as a matter of course. I would also run full VCDS scan and post results.

Has your girlfriend been using this car on dipped beam for a year? You posted originally in March '24!

What was the knocking noise? Seems unusual for 3 injectors to fail. How long will they last? Million dollar question. The engine needs the information for long term fuel management, otherwise its Russian roulette before they potentially fail again. Did you fit new stretch bolts and washers?

It could be. If engine management light on, then the error that triggered it will be recorded. A scan with VCDS will reveal more.

Absolutely. 4 years old with full Audi history and just 31k miles. Take it up with Audi UK, I would be looking at goodwill fix. I know that some dealers have their own issues with mechatronics on VW platform, but I’m sure it’s there with Audi too.

What’s the engine code? My understanding is these exhaust temp sensors are utter pain. Access may be difficult, plus they are usually difficult to remove and sometimes need drilled out. Not sure what OBD scanner you’re using, but you need to get access to VCDS or Autel to check, then you can run live data. it might even be exhaust pressure sender. Check against your engine code. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A3/646/2/253/253062

The headlight washer cover or cap is spring loaded. When activated, the washer pump pushes through the aperture and the spring loaded cap then shuts when it retracts. Pretty sure you’re going to have to remove the bumper to fix. Sounds worse than it is, usually held in place with Torx screws, including on the wings with small bolts. You’ll probably need to remove inner wheel arch liners to access. Part here. You might be lucky and fit with bumper on. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/product/8p0955339/audi-8p0955339-spring-clip

Similar post on AudiVW forum a few years ago, but it was going into limp mode. Replaced fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure sensor. There was no update. I wonder if the lift pump in the fuel tank might be an issue?

Quick scan on Autodoc, pretty sure it’s 75W-80, API GL4+. Castrol Transmax compatible with VW G 052 171. Not particularly expensive. Always loosen fill plug first, if you drain it and find that seized, you’re in a world of pain. Think it takes 2.3 litres. Double check that with Audi.

As you say Stuart, very difficult to gauge a price. If it was something like a B6 S4 Avant in Imola Yellow then it would be different and treated as a classic. Reality is it’s a B6 3.0 litre petrol, 23 years old with 109k on the clock with crusty wings. Going to break your heart here, but it’s worth more to you than it’s physically worth. On positive, belts done, year’s MOT, tow bar, and leather. That’s cheap motoring for someone. Start at £1,200 and see if you get any interest. Try Gumtree. You could swap out wings, but I’m not sure that makes it more saleable. There’s a private B7 (2008) 3.0TDI Avant on Autotrader, badged as S4 but it isn’t, lowered, 160k miles, service history, paint immaculate for £2k.

Check exhaust clamps, and flexi (if one is fitted) these can corrode and what you’re smelling is fumes from engine bay. Also auxilliary drive belt, a seized clutch drive pulley, etc.

Look at Darkside Developments, personally I wouldn't but car parts, especially critical ones from Ebay.

Keep on top of servicing is half the battle. That said, things can go wrong. I think your SOS button is bit of an anomaly and hopefully a one off, but that said I was reading about the light bar on a 2022 Q8 delaminating, and that was a £1,500+ repair, luckily under warranty. If it gives you peace of mind, take out the warranty. Just double-check conditions. I had a non Audi 2 year warranty on my 2017 B9 Avant, and it stipulated services every 6 months which is unrealistic. I now service the car myself and had the Tiptronic gearbox serviced too, Audi would have said leave it.

Could be an exhaust temperature sensor. Ideally you need to read soot levels and the temperature for that bank. If it’s not getting temperature it’s clogging again.

Like a lot of warranties, they act as insurance policies, so basically weighted in favour of the issuer, in this case Audi. You have two options, save the money, actually setting it aside for a potential issue down the road or take out the warranty. Decision would be based on history of the car and maintenance, and overall condition now.

The £600 road tax is probably related to the car being worth over £40k new, plus of course it's a diesel. From what I can see the 2.0TDI quattro (204PS) on a new A5 is somewhere in the region of 140-137 g/km CO2. Not sure if that tax eventually reduces? Oil, this is a pretty new car, so I'd expect that oil figure to stabilise. Not even sure if it has a dipstick. Audi like to have this on the MMI. Keep an eye on it, but as the engine beds in, then in my experience, it won't drink at all. Not sure if your car came with a services thrown in (usually if you buy on finance), but typical Audi - then they'll be changing your oil at approximately 18k miles which is fine of you plan to keep the car for 3 years or so, but if it's a keeper, then this will eventually kill the engine with premature wear. Personally, I'd be doing oil and filter changes every 8-10k miles. Battery should be in the boot. Active lane assist - to switch off, there should be a button at the end of the indicator stalk, hold for 5 seconds and the assist green lane disappear on the dash.

Glad you got it fixed. No reason you can't put another 100k miles on it.

Sounds auxilliary drive belt related, alternator clutch pulley, tensioner pulley, etc.

As mentioned. If the engine is out, then there's other work that should take place given access. That's Audi main dealer prices for you, so £180+ an hour. Would be worth checking out independent garages that specialise in this type of work, or even consider selling it. You'll never recover the money otherwise. Depends if you plan to keep it for a few years, ultimately its only 2019. 50TDI is 3 litre (286hp). If it was me, then I would get chains replaced to future-proof it. The plastic guides can wear and its an engine out job to replace anyway. Get a quote from VAG Technic (Dudley). They are on YouTube and only use genuine parts.

To go back to the original post, 11.7v is a dead battery. It should be sitting around 12.4v - 12.6v, and running over 14.0v. Seems unusual to use it, then nothing. I would definately factor in a new AGM battery which is around £200+, needs coded, and go from there.