spartacus 68

Audi are tight as a gnat's chuff when it comes to factory-fitted options. They moved down the bundle tech route years ago. I do think the RS4 is over-inflated price-wise. That said, the production run has stopped, so perceived demand has forced the price up. Is Vorsprung worth it? I don't know enough about what additional extras you get over and above a standard RS4. I know it includes panoramic, 360 degree cameras, Alcantara headlining, bigger wheels, sport exhaust, etc. If you're thinking of paying that sort of money, then search out the right car, preferably in a colour you can live with. If I could afford it, I'd go for Sonoma Green.

I follow Crasher on UK Volkswagen forum. He's very knowledgable having worked on VAG cars for years as master tech. He recommends Suplex springs. For shocks, I don't know, Munroe, Boge.

If you’re doing your own servicing, then VCDS is what I’d recommend. £225 from Gendan for 3 VIN licence plus your own laptop. Great tool and pays for itself within a couple of years. Lifetime updates.

Don't know about Carly (which is subscription based). VCDS is normally go-to software for these types of faults. It will pinpoint the fault based on the DTC error log. You'd know if the bonnet igniter had fired, as the bonnet would have lifted at the hinges. More than likely on a 2014 car it could be crash impact sensor (behind bumper) such as broken wiring, or even related to seat wiring.

Hi Phillip Suggest both these issues are dealer related. 1/ Not sure what your phone has to do with remote parking? Park assist works with PMA and PDC sensors on the car as far as I'm aware. It's a 2025 build so will have the latest maps too - in case that's linked in too. 2/ Change your dealer. Now you might be tied in with small-print (if the car was financed for example), but I can't stand poor service. If you're based in Kingson, then the closest Audi dealer to you would be Wimbledon Audi. On new cars - you simply have to ensure car is serviced using genuine Audi parts and you have receipt of work, which in your case will be digital log.

I don't know enough about it. It's a MOT fail, illegal, etc. Car is 2018, so still has value, so when you move it on - then it's going to become apparent it was removed and any likely consequences. In addition, surely emissions will go up? Rather than guesstimate, see what's actually causing the errors. As suggested, it could be the secondary heater and pipe. Think the part is £180 plus labour. If it's the actual tank you're looking at £1,200, plus coding, plus labour. Don't forget to start adding Forte AdBlue anti-crystal as part of preventative maintenance regime.

Will probably need more information. White smoke is never good, potentially pointing to coolant leaking into oil. Is oil fine, no mayonnaise under the filler cap? This time of year, then batteries tend to fail, especially if it’s over 6 years old. Put a multimeter on it at cold, not running. You need to be pulling 12.4v minimum. If not, then it needs to be replaced, and eventually coded. This will be Euro 5 diesel. Literally could be anything, leaking injector, glow plug issue, etc. Car needs scanned with VCDS to reveal DTC error codes, then go from there.

Audi refer to AdBlue as reductant, and that’s how errors are identified in VCDS. Before you condemn the AdBlue tank, the wiring needs to be checked. The AdBlue tank has a heater, pump and level sensor. As mentioned, it’s not cheap, and it’s an integral unit so if one part fails, the entire unit needs to be swapped out. There’s wiring and pipe (with secondary integral heating coil) that feeds to the AdBlue injector. I’ve seen a couple of videos on Q5 where this part has failed. They test with multimeter for open circuit. If it fails, they replace the entire pipe. Whatever the fault is, once you get it resolved, add Forte anti-crystal to AdBlue every time you top it up.

Very nice. B9 chassis build seems to be very reliable. I’ve had B4, B5, B8 and now a B9 Avant. Not aware of any major weak points as such. Keep on top of servicing is key, including gear box intervals. Only weak point is rear coil-spring rubber seats. You’ve probably got a couple of years yet, but they suffer from oxide corrosion. Ironically, part is a few quid, but you’re looking at around 3 hours labour to fit unless your spanner handy. If it’s a long-term keeper, then consider treating underside with deep clean then a couple of coats of Lanoguard. Powder-coating is all that’s stopping subframes from rusting through.

Indeed. I thought about a stage 1 remap, but to be honest I’ve plenty power, and I’m returning over 50mpg on the motorway, so leaving as is.

As far as I can see on Euro 6, 3.0 litre engines they use variable oil pressure, so uses lower pressure at lower RPM, to reduce emissions. I think it’s more of an issue on cars modified to stage 1 or 2, so ECU map would need to be adjusted. My view is getting car to operating temperature and use low revs, then you can open it up. That and renew oil regularly of course. On 18k oil change intervals which is madness, the oil has lost its viscosity after approximately 10k miles. Damage is done and it’s usually owners down the line that will deal with the issues. Oil comes out like water at service, so I’d choose to renew 5-8k miles.

I have the same model. Not heard of this modification. I change oil and filter every 5k miles using Castrol edge 5w30 (don’t use a flush). I also had Triptronic gear box serviced at 65k miles. Other than that, add Forte anti-crystal to AdBlue during 8 litre top-ups and run on premium diesel. Fuel filter every 20k miles. Air and pollen every 10k miles. Mann parts are OE. I have VCDS so can scan for codes, etc.

Auto transmission boxes require oil change every 38k. If it’s Approved Audi, you’ll be covered. If not, contact the selling garage. Needs to be hooked up to VCDS to scan for more details. In the meantime, don’t drive it.

Link to LLL parts here. New the module is expensive, but I’d be tempted to use a second hand part. Looking at this diagram it looks like it’s in the central convenience area. I could be wrong. Double check the rear boot area behind the trim, and see if any of the parts marry up. Looking at the diagram, the module is located in the same area where the PDC speaker is. Long time not to have parking sensors if this happened back in June. Anything happen back then that could be related? https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A3/745/9/919/919020

The fact some functions are working suggests it’s a control rather than power issue. Has the car ever had wet carpets? Doesn’t take much to have oxide corrosion on the connections under the seat. Trouble with electric seats is access. Are you able to get splined drive bit onto forward and rear runners? It’s awkward working on it otherwise. You’ll need a 1/2” drive and extension bar to remove. With bolts removed, you can tilt seat back. Don’t remove yellow connection that’s usually airbag or it will illuminate on dash. If you had VCDS, you could scan to see specific fault code. There’s a hack if you can’t access splined bolts with a 12v power source to move.

2018 model here with less miles for £45k if that helps. https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202512238771348 Not necessarily sure your RS5 will increase in value. It depends what you want from it and if you still enjoy owning it and driving it. RS2 Avants are still making money, but here’s the rub, you can’t get parts for them. Similarly an RS6 V10. Can be picked up for as little as £15k, but they are very specialised to work on, and in most cases it’s an engine out job even to get to the starter motor.

You’re a glutton for punishment. Make sure this isn’t your daily driver. I’ve done a front end suspension refresh a couple of times, but just changed arms, not bushes and it always takes longer than you think. I invested in an air hammer for the top arms as usually the pinch bolt on the steering knuckle is seized with corrosion. Laser make a tool which is worth investing in. On lower arms, probably hydra bushes. Lemforder is OE or Meyle HD is good alternative, however suspect you might me going down Powerflex bush route.

Yes, updates can take longer than you think. If doing it at home, then trickle charge to the battery. Did the same with map updates on an older A4 Allroad on SD cards.

Could be an injector. You’d usually see some smoke, but not necessarily an engine management light until further down the line if problem persists. The copper washers wear on them allowing combustion blow-by. If replacing, then the injector bolts need renewed as they are torque to yield. There’s also an art to getting them out. Old school approach, run a can of Forte diesel conditioner in it at 1/4 tank and drive it like you stole it. Replace fuel filter afterwards. If car is due a timing belt at some point, then I’d avoid that step. VCDS can see injector flow rates, so that’s what I would do first and take it from there.

Check battery as mentioned, especially with central convenience module faults, steering module, seats, etc. Also noticed the mass airflow sensor fault. Always fit genuine Audi part. Before you do anything, get a multimeter on battery, then 12.4v - 12.7v (not running). Noticed in the VCDS log: ‘Voltage terminal 30: 11.180 V’ It’s not running I know, but that’s low. Even when it’s running, I’d expect over 14v, but it’s was under and that was back in the summer according to coolant fan issue. I’d be included to clear all DTC faults and run again. As soon as any performance issues, scan car again. If battery is goosed, fit AGM version, best you can buy. Pretty sure it needs coded on 2011 plate. You have VCDS, so piece of cake.

I’m sure that’s the case with all tuning companies Steve. I’ve read the small print on Darkside’s website. Let’s face it, diesels are basically the devil incarnate after years of successive governments actively encouraging them. The vehicle manufacturers added everything including the kitchen sink to reduce emissions, but yes, eventually down the line it will catch up with you. I don’t know enough about deletions and any after-effects, but there’s usually a consequence somewhere down the line.

No specific experience of Celtic Tuning. But I see they actually advertise DPF and EGR deletions, that tells me all I need to know. I've watched my fair share of modifications and if I was going to do it - I'd search our Darkside Developments. They seem very knowledgeable technically speaking. As with all performance upgrades - it's what can the gearbox handle? I know in your case whether 30 TDI (114bhp) or 35 TDI (147bhp) if mated with an S Tronic auto box, then just keep up maintenance regime or that's an expensive fix. You'll already know on 2024 build car you'll automatically invalidate what's left of manufacturer's warranty.

What's the mileage on 2012 car and history? All suspension eventually fails as it deteriorates with age/use. The A6 isn't a lightweight either. Lemforder is OE suspension component. With multi-link suspension you can chase clunks. Useful route is always replace in pairs with opposite side.

First thing to do is get a multimeter on the battery. Should be in region of 12.4v-12.7v (not running). If you have to replace battery, usually AGM version and yes needs coded to the car with VCDS or similar. Check vent pipe when hooking up. I would normally trickle charge before installing. You can replace battery and not code to get you up and running, but get it coded ASAP. My understanding on the in-line fuse is it trips if airbags deploy, etc. Details here.

Coming from a belt-driven 2.0 TDI to chain driven 3.0 V6, then I would recommend changing the oil a bit more frequently. You’ll be familiar with cam belt and water pump expense, every 5 years, and oil changes every 8-10k miles. I’d recommend oil changes every 5-7k miles and go easy on the throttle until it gets to operating temperature. On a manual transmission, treat it to a gear oil change by 100k to 120k miles including rear diff. Other than that, run a can of Forte diesel conditioner through it occasionally and renew fuel filter every 20k miles.