spartacus 68

Try phoning a Bosch diagnostic specialist. They should have the original ECU map for A6 2013 Allroad. There’s the main dealer of course, but I’d put money on them charging you a fortune and not resolving. Was replacement parts all genuine Audi? I don’t understand how the car needs software update? I’d also scan the car with VCDS to see if any existing DTC errors still logged. There are some modules that require ‘relearn’ process after installation.

Not sure if the crash bar is available with foam cover? Check LLL parts for your model. Either way you need to do something. It’s like walking outside in just your underpants.

Irwin bolt extractor hammered on. Potentially need heat on it too, then 1/2” or even 3/4” breaker bar and slow torque applied.

Love the B5 Avant shape and that’s a cracking colour. Great project for someone. Used to have a 2001 B5 2.5TDI V6 Sport quattro avant. Sold it a number of years ago at 1 75k miles. Used to regularly search for it on MOT check to see that someone was looking after the old girl. Got to over 200k miles then went quiet and lapsed MOT.

If you go to Audi main dealer you're looking at a minimum of £180 and that's just to scan the car. If upu have a trusted independent, that would be the way to go. Some of the modules If faulty are accessible under glove box, with it out obviously. VCDS will run a scan and identify. The motors themselves can be quite expensive, plus labour of course. If you're normally DIY for this sort of thing, have a go. VCDS starts around £225 but you'll need a laptop to run it on. You get updates for life.

Could buy new AGM battery, VCDS licence and still have change for a cheeky overnight stay in a 5-star hotel. That's Audi main dealer for you!

Car probably needs scanned with VCDS. Could be a number of things - but air con system uses a series of electric motor modules to adjust vents. If one breaks, either electrically or mechanically, then it can reduce airflow, etc. Worth checking air-con while you're at it.

Noting your location, not unreasonable to determine the boot rubber has experienced extremes of heat. Actually getting in the boot isn't as daft as you think. I don't think a camera will pick up the detail. This video helps illustrate the lengths you sometimes need to go to. You will need to strip out trim if water enters the boot but you can't determine the location. These guys are good - look a their channel and you'll see their rebuild of a cheap S8.

Likely to be be glow-plugs (coil symbol) and an engine management light. As long as it's not permanently illuminated. Car will need to be scanned to see the actual fault(s) which will provide more details. If it is glow-plugs, be wary about just heading in to replace. The engine needs to be hot and spray PlusGas on base of plug 2-3 days before attempting to help ease. Only use 3/8" or 1/4" ratchet and deep socket. If the plug breaks you're in a world of pain. Not sure what's spec these days, NGK, Bosch, Beru? When renewing plugs, use a light smear of ceramic grease on the threads. I'd also check battery voltage. At this time of year - you will get issues with batteries, and ones that are heading out due to age or cold cranking degradation. Should be around 12.6v not started. New one, likely AGM will need coded to the car - if that was a feature - noting A3 is 2011.

It's quite difficult to determine a wheel bearing on a quattro in my experience. I've rarely identified a wheel bearing based on holding the road wheel at 10 to 2 position or trying lateral movement. In addition I don't think it's the brakes. You can generally rule out the brakes and a sticky piston by driving for a few miles and coast to a stop. A sticky piston or contact on the pads and the disc and will heat up rapidly. Normally I've had to strip down the brakes to get to the hub, then rotate. It's normally fairly obvious at that point. If you've already renewed the N/S/F, then chances are the O/S/F if it's original has gone. Pretty sure SFK and F.A.G. are the same plant. I tend to opt for F.A.G. given labour to replace. Now the hard work - this can be done on a drive, but a word of warning - that bearing hub will be corroded to the strut housing with aluminium oxide. You'll need a air hammer or similar to shift it. The front axle hub bolt will need be torqued up too, so make sure you have a 3/4" breaker bar. 1/2" will likely bend or break. Dave Sterl does a cracking video to millustrate.

Yes, get alternator tested. A cheap multimeter can achieve that on car battery when running, you’re probably looking at 14.4v running. Get a AGM battery, and coded to car with VCDS. Some other car diagnostics can do it too. Before hooking up new battery, leave it on a trickle charge. Will be around 12.6v with car not started. New cars are very fussy to low voltage, so can throw up spurious faults. Also make sure vent pipe attached.

I’ve never had a new car, but I’d expect PDI to be done, that’s an absolute given. I’d potentially bring first oil change forward at 5k miles. Thereafter ever 8-10k miles. Avoid Audi’s long service regime, it’s utter nonsense. Any lubricating properties the oil had would have left many months ago, now it’s simply achieving oil level. It’s a cost-cutting measure and will effect owners 4-5 years down the road if you hand back or trade in after 3 years.

Do front end refresh as suggested. Also check bushes on ARB, not the links, the actual bushes. For all arms - torque to final setting with wheels on the ground or you'll stress bushes. If knocking persists - could be inner tie-rod. Again check for play. Look at top-mounts too, plus coil springs. Not uncommon to have a break in the spring near the end.

If it's over 100k miles which is likely, then probably needs front end refresh for multi-link suspension. You can replace bits and pieces, but you need to mirror that both sides. Lemforder is OE, but I'd fit that or Meyle HD. Will need tracking and alignment afterwards.

Does the car have door open warning lights? Audi got tight with what they added and what should have been standard after 2012 or so. Front headlight washers and rear door open and puddle lights just being some of the kit they quietly dropped or if you wanted them you needed to buy a bundled package. Try https://rocketwires.co.uk/online-shop/ols/products/door-lighting for looms. I've used them and it's straight forward. That allows you to piggy-back into existing wiring. You'll need Torx screwdriver, anti-marr trim tools.

Not even sure where you start. The units are probably £3k a piece. There's power modules, etc. You might be better searching for a headlight specialist that can test and repair. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A4Q/849/9/941/941010

Can you give us more information please? Was the car in an accident? Audi LED Matrix headlights were first introduced on B9 model as an expensive £1,750 option I think from 2016 onwards, or as standard on Vorsprung spec models.

See if ECU lives under driver’s side bulkhead in engine compartment? LLL parts identifies it, but not its location. I’m assuming car is petrol? https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/AA4C/492/9/906/906000 Also this link. https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/114129-B7-A4-ECU-Removal-(RHD-Vehicle) I’d also look for the comfort control module, that might be your culprit.

Look on LLL parts and get a part number based on year, engine code, etc and go from there. I take it - it's a non-quattro? It's Also known as front subframe cross-member. They are just powder-coated steel, so yes, they eventually succumb. Treat with Lanoguard or similar once fitted.

Remove the existing switch and take a closer look. You need to quote the Audi part number. There will be one, trust me, somewhere. Back to sunroofs - there are notorious for leaking at the drains or the actual tray cassette, so check the switch for corrosion on contacts. The motor or micro-switch can also fail. The fact it's still working means there's 12v current, so likely to be a contact issue rather than a failed motor. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A3/201/9/959/959000 In my experience if you remove the motor - you many need to go through a relearn sequence as there's probably pinch-protection on the roof. The actual switch is part 4A on the LLL parts diagram. I checked parts for a year 2000 model and they are exactly the same, apart from colour code of interior. New one to me - called a Potentiometer (sounds like it should be used in the film Back to the Future!) If it's standard grey - this work? https://www.newmiltonautoparts.com/4b0959613b--a-genuine-audi-a3-4-a6-a8-sunshine-roof-sunroof-switch-13549-p.asp

I know you're not going down VCDS route, but with VCDS, it's the same diagnostic kit Audi use, apart from ODIS for removal of component protection, etc. You also get lifetime software updates and can post diagnostic scans to dedicated user's forum if your stumped by an issue. It does battery coding, rear discs, plus a lot more if you're going down coding route. Carly from what I've read is a generic OBD2 reader, however there's a annual renewal premium, so don't be caught out. I've also heard their customer support is poor.

I'd have thought getting a price match is a physical impossibility. Typical marketing ploy. Once you factor in genuine Audi parts, then their labour rate of £190 an hour, you're on a hiding to nothing. You can still use genuine Audi parts (most are produced by other manufacturers) with Audi stamped on it, such as Mann for air, fuel and oil filters), TRW or ATE for brakes, etc.

Is the car using more oil? On 2008, luckily you have dipstick. If you had access to VCDS, then when the car was stalling, what codes (if any) were triggered? Constant regents and poor fuel economy could be back to the DPF and the pressure sensor readings. Not suggesting it’s faulty, but if there was a code, then this is informative. The DPF has finite life, so cleaning could be an option. I’d also check out EGR. Notorious for blocking. Lastly, I’ve used Forte diesel conditioner on cars where emissions have crept up. Add to a quarter tank and drive it hard. Replace fuel filter afterwards. Mann parts are OE.

Got an air hammer, but my budget doesn't quite extend to induction heater! Saw you've had it diagnosed as lower arms. These could be hydra-bushes, so OE as before such as Lemforder.

You're right, apparently started around 2007/2008 on B8 A4 model. With that in mind - just plug and play!