Magnet

Hello Martin, We can see you have returned to the forum since yesterday’s post requesting an update. Any good reason why you are not responding?

We have sheep breaking the 20mph limit. Would an App cater for that!?

Welcome Ron and thanks for joining. ’Tyre pressures have been checked multiple times and reset…. ‘ So are you saying that the tyre pressures need resetting -in response to the TPMS warning - so they are actually lower? than the required pressure? Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Tom. Please do not wait around on here for a response, particularly since your link doesn’t work - well at least for me. This car is seriously trying to tell you something, and if it were mine I would not be using it until it’s assessed by a trusted local garage. Apologies for coming over as being dismissive in this case, but to me, this doesn’t seem to be a candidate for remote diagnosing, but needs to be seen and assessed. Kind regards, Gareth.

Cliff raises an important question here Martin. I can see you have re visited since this question was raised, but we await your reply.

Welcome Russell, To me, I’m finding it very difficult to link the diagnosis to the symptoms! Would suggest you consult another trusted independent. Does the coolant temperature stay constant at around 90 C and get to that temperature within about 3 miles? Regards, Gareth.

Hello Martin, Have you blown out all the lines with an around 30psi air line? Have you check that the washer reservoir is free from slimy sludge at the bottom, and that the pre pump filter gauze is clean? Have you confirmed the pump is receiving a 12 volt supply - or not? Regards, Gareth.

Any response for the forum Martin?

No problem Parm, but if you decide 0w/20 is the way you will go, it won’t just be any 0w/20 - or necessarily a Shell brand because you can get it at a discount - but it must be confirmed to satisfy whatever VAG’s specification is within that grade.

Taking your belief that if oil is thicker it lubricates better -if so, why not go all the way and fill the sump with grease! Deviating from the manufacturer’s recommendations is entering a territory you should not want to be in, but it’s your car and your choice to ignore VAG’s advice and the advice offered on here so far. Good luck with whatever you choose to do, and I remain happy that the advice I’ve offered you is based on sound logic. Having said that, please let us know what you eventually decide Parm. Regards, Gareth.

Wrong thoughts Dave.

Welcome Parm and thanks for joining. So why do you want to move away from 0w/20 if ( in caps) this is the grade specified in your handbook or some other official VAG publication? As well as the grade, there will also be a VAG specification within that grade which the necessary oil must specify - as they say on the tin. Although I use the correct grade of Shell Ultra for other cars, I only use VAG’s branded oil -Quantum- in our 176K A3. In case it helps, I use their Longlife 3 ,but treat it to an annual oil change irrespective of the much lower mileage covered annually. I usually buy from reputable sellers on EBay. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Jason and sorry to read of your problem. With note to your thread title of ‘Low pressure’, what pressure have you been told is low, so members can better relate to your issue? Regards, Gareth.

The question was Dave ‘ is the oil consumption something you could live with….’ ?

Hello Colin, I would want to know the extent of the leak - liveable with? Also, is the oil consumption something you could live with by buying heap oil? You say it has a recent MOT, so worth just using it as long as you can? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thank you Tony. By what I can see you stated you ‘ cleaned the dizzy cap and rotor arm’ - not quite the same? I think I’ll dip out of this one.

Please answer the question Cliff asked Tony - distributor has points and condenser or not- ?

Other way about Tony. It’s the distributor which ‘serves’ the coil.

Thanks Stephen, I think I would have also changed the hub ( which normally houses the sender) at the same time - for the cost of the hub- with- bearing. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, ’I got the passenger side … joint replaced’. My advice would be to take it back to whoever fitted it - don’t fiddle with it, don’t try to self diagnose it - but take it back ASAP. Please let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Last bit :- vital that you do in my book Andy, before committing. Please do not be mislead into thinking low mileage is any assurance from potential issues, since if you consider such low mileage is usually as a result of short journey use, with numerous gear changes etc. along with stops and starts, and braking. Always worth reviewing the broader picture of pros and cons of low mileage compared with the same car covering high motorway miles at optimum operating conditions. Regards, Gareth.

So you have the ABS and traction control lights showing Stephen-? If it were mine, I would be getting confirmation of the fault via. and independent. It wont be a sensor on the rear caliper, but the ABS sensor monitoring the rear hub. It could also be a weak ‘sender’ built into the rear hub, necessitating a new hub and bearing assembly. I’ve used Febi parts for these to good effect. Please let us know what you find out. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Did you get ‘for comparison’ battery quotes from the suggested suppliers?

This is beginning to sound like a real put-off Andy, but in addition to the above, you are likely to find insurance premiums will be inflated due to it being an import. When was it imported, and does the price make it an attractive buy over a U.K. car? Another potential issue :- I think ( but you would need to confirm) - that this 12 year old car was in the period where these engines had a potential problem with high oil consumption.Check this forum for more detail. Sorry Andy, but ….. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Stephen, Yes, best to avoid Halfords if you have respect for your wallet - also main dealers. Of possible help:- I now avoid Varta/Bosch due to recent dissatisfactions. I currently favour Exide ( their Premium grade for those without stop/start. Have a look at Tayna Batteries website and tap in your registration number, and that should point you to the correct battery - beware, Tayna will likely to point you towards their own brand ( sorry cannot recall the brand name at the moment) but I would simply stick with Exide. Also have a look at Parts in Motion website - they now do Exide. For both these companies, look on EBay before committing since they are generally listed as free shipping on there. Double check your current battery spec. for Ah and CCA figures and ensure the recommended replacement meets/exceeds these figure. Also check dimensions, but do not ( in caps)use a metal tape for fear of touching terminals! New battery will need coding. Regards, Gareth.

This thread will now be deleted.