Magnet

Hello Jimmy, Sounds nice. Can we take it you have done an on-line MOT history on the car? Also an on-line ‘DVLA Vehicle check’ which will tell you the date the last V5 was issued. If fairly recent, then some degree of alarm ringing will dictate further investigation, since the last owner may have bought it recently. Not a good sign. Not wishing to put a dampener on anything, but prior homework is king! You should also be able (essential) to do a servicing search via. any Audi dealer, by giving them the registration number. They will usually e-Mail you a copy of that service record. In addition to Steve’s very sound advice about equal tread depths, I would also check on ‘same brand’ tyres. A matching set of tyre brands on a car is a good sign. Good luck with it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Mohammed, I can see AGM on the old Varta, but I seem to be missing it on the new Bosch. Kind regards, Gareth.

Worth having a check Phil? Kind regards, Gareth.

I’m really not sure about the impolite comments, which I guess you interpreted from my post some 5 days later to yours, and at a point where you hadn’t returned to the forum to view any responses. I saw my comments as factual, rather than aimed at being impolite. Not that it should matter, but I’m knocking the door of 80 years of age, and have always attempted to deal with people in a polite manner, and always end my posts in that vein. Of course, during that span of years, there has no doubt been occasions where that philosophy has failed, and offence has been caused - as in this case, and my style has been to tender apologies - which I do in this case. In defence of the forum, I would claim that there are a number of stallwood responders her who give a considerable amount of their time in an attempt to hopefully help others, and with a recent spate of non responses from people who post for the first time, this has (understandably in my opinion) resulted in a some criticism. Having said that, there has been an aim towards politeness, and that will continue in my posts, and I’m sure with other responders. To end this on a more lighthearted note:- one of the Marcs brothers said ‘ I wouldn’t want to belong to any club that would have me as a member. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mohammed, One basic question - is the new Bosch battery an AGM type? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Phil, So the service schedule indicator has now been changed by your Audi dealer? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Phil, It sounds like your car needs to be on an annual service schedule, based on the mileage you are doing. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, You could also buy a ‘code saver’ device which plugs into the cigarette lighter and is connected to a spare 12v battery - if you have one. This is the best recognised way of doing it. Re. Removal of corrosion on terminal connector - the least destructive way is to pour a small (in caps) amount of boiling water on the terminal - do one at a time and dry water off between dealing with the other one. Thoroughly dry each one before applying a light covering of Vaseline. Re. Eventually replacing the battery? The new battery will need to be coded to the car, so best resolution is to buy yourself a good brand battery ( I use Varta - usually original supplier to VAG, or Bosch - same in reality) with a 5 year warranty bought from specialist on- line suppliers such as Battery Megastore, Tayna etc - no connection with either and there are more. Then find yourself a local VAG independent, and get them to swop it over and code it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Mike, It seems the original poster joined, posted his plea for help via. his first and only post, returned to the forum some hours later and has not bothered to return to view any help offered, leave alone answer a couple of questions raised. Strange that the topic of just such instances was only raised last week. Still there you go eh!? Many thanks again Mike, Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Steve, Appreciate vehicle prices have escalated in recent times, but I just wonder how competitively priced this example is compared with other similar models, year and mileage. I still have my (serious) doubts, but I could be wrong. Shame the OP hasn’t returned to the forum. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks fo joining the forum. Rather confusing,and more detail required:- When you say you get a clunk from the - steering- are you sure it’s the steering (anything felt through the steering wheel?). You think you are hearing something at the near side - are you sure this is steering noise, rather than a drive/ take up transmission noise? Have you had an assistant standing at the side of the car to better isolate where the noise is coming from? Does the noise alter if you put the car on full lock either side before starting to reverse? Perhaps you could come back to us Alan. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Michael, Thanks for joining the forum and advising that you have the roof bars for sale. If these were mine, I would be listing them on EBay to ensure a wide audience of potential buyers. You can also post them on this forum and list the price you want for them. Kind regards, Gareth.

I guess I’m out of touch with prices of these vehicles, but are these 18 year old cars really selling for £8,500? Sorry to put a dampener on its pedigree ( which may indeed be better than it appears at first glance) but a swift look at the MOT history shows repeated advisories for tyres near the limit. Good sign of maintenance? Apologies Michael if I’ve got this all wrong. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tony, Wonder if you would be kind enough to respond. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Martin, The original poster joined and last visited the forum within 3 days of joining, and never returned to advise on any fix. You could try sending him a PM to see if he replies to you. As with the OP, it is often far more cost effective give to buy an half hour with an autoelectrician, than it is to buy parts in the assumption a particular component is at fault -in your case it could be the switch is faulty. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Martin. Hello Edward, Sorry, not understanding the need for your post. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Edward, I understand your dilemma, but if it were mine I still would pull it apart without a good run under its belt. Talk nicely with one of your local cars sales -armed with a £20 note and ask them if they would take it for you on trade plates? A 10 mile run should do it it has to. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sorry, but I’m lost with this!

Hello Edward, I don’t think I would be pulling this engine apart simply based on this test and evidence. I would be taking the car on a 20 mile run and getting an assistant to rev the engine to a steady 2000rpm and then (in caps) observing the exhaust smoke. If it smokes to the same extent then - yes you are likely to have trouble. If not, it could be simply condensation. Coolant loss? How much over what mileage? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, Manual or automatic? I think you would be wise in investing in a proper diagnostics at an Audi independent, since you do seem to be throwing parts at this ( at guesswork?) in the hope of curing it. Kind regards, Gareth.

The OP says he has had the car for 7 weeks Steve, so 30 days rejection ( is it still 30 days) wouldn’t apply, but surely if it was bought from a dealer then the 90? warranty should apply. Kind regards, Gareth.

Halfords and alert for intermittent fault - on which wheel Aaron? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dan, Thanks for being g in touch with the forum. Genuine wheels are aimed such that their load bearing is through the centre of the hub bearing. Displacing that loading by using spacers can be bad news for bearings. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Aaron, Many thanks for joining the forum and posting your plea for help. As has been said, you really need to give us more information to work with. Also, since the issue of the battery has been mentioned, has this 6 year old car had its battery replaced? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Clinton, Only you can decide whether any car is going to interest you and your budget, and there’s no doubt with the research you have already carried out, and intend to carry out, you will be better versed on relative prices on the island of Ireland than any of us on the mainland. Sod’s law will dictate that you will either buy a car then continue to search and find ‘a better buy’, or dither over relative prices and miss a good car at a reasonable price. Another point to bear in mind Clinton would the perhaps frightening to you thought of paying say even £2000 over the odds, make much difference over the 10 year period you are likely to keep it - £200 a year - not terribly frightening motoring-cost wise. As I say - good luck with deciding what you are going to buy. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Clinton - makes more sense now. Apologies and not wishing to offend, but you appear to be very keen on knowing how much the dealer would have paid for the car. That shouldn’t be your primary concern, and it really shouldn’t affect your decision to buy or not to buy. If the price is comparable with other similar condition, specification and mileage ones advertised, and you have an overall satisfaction with it, then buy it. If you really like the car but don’t like the price, then search for another one. Dealers are in business to make a profit, just as any other employing business is, and if making that profit is easy, then why aren’t we all scouting for financial backers and joining in ourselves? I don’t have any allegiance to main dealers or car retailers, but if anyone thinks buying a car in at £16K and selling it at £19 is a rip off, then it’s worth considering that the £3 k mark up attracts 20% Vat = £600, then a c25% tax on the ‘profit’ of £3K = £750, which totals £1350, and leaving £1650 to pay for wages, rates, utilities etc. etc. A potential buyer comes in and requests let’s say a ‘modest’ £500 off leaving £1150 in the pot to fund all the overheads and provide a guarantee that the car will operate as the buyer expects. Not sure what currently happens over with you Clinton, but most dealers over here state the selling price, and if you want it you pay that price ( as you would in Tesco for tin of beans). If the buyer doesn’t want to pay that pice then fair enough, he doesn’t buy it. If this were me ( and cards on table I have been there a couple of months ago):- Model I want? within budget? Competitive price? Condition as wanted? Yes to all of those - buy. How much profit did the seller make on the deal? Don’t know, and not really bothered. Good luck with your purchase. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Cambelt ( if belted engine) should be changed when the car becomes 5 year old, irrespective of mileage.