Magnet

Hello Omar, That’s great news, and thank you for sharing it with us - that is a bonus to the forum, since we often don’t get feedback on resolutions. We wish you well with your search for a replacement, and may I suggest having the car inspected (by AA) before purchase, even if buying from an Audi dealer. OK, it will cost a couple of hundred pounds, but it will represent a small additional expense within the overall major expenditure. Many thanks again and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello folks, The high level brake light has failed on the 2006 A3, and needs to be renewed ( supply is fine). EBay lists a predominance of Chinese supplies, and judging by the prices being asked for used ones, I would anticipate a new VAG one would be an arm and leg job. Wondered if anyone has been there, done it and it’s lasted, with a non VAG one, and could pass on a recommendation. Many thanks and kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mon, You are very welcome to advertise the car on here, and include photos, as full a description as possible, together with the price you want for it. And/or, I would suggest listing it on EBay. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Steve, I think it’s more to do with the Japanese ‘Road tax’ system being based on current emissions requirements, and the tax paid is highly influenced by the degree the vehicle fails to meet these (current) requirements. The older the car the greater the differential between acceptable emission limits when built, and emission requirements now, and the tax penalties render them uneconomical to retain in the country - hence they are exported. How long before that happens here? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Charlotte again, If this were mine, I would not be bothering to sort out the door situation as priority over the charging issue. Not much point in having fully functioning doors if the battery isn’t charging/ going flat. OK, the car doesn’t have the stop/start function, but that doesn’t mean it shouldn’t have an AGM type battery and an ‘intelligent charging’ system. My initial researches would be associated with clearing up this possible issue, and if the battery you have proves to be wrong, then this and the alternator would be my first priority. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, - post still showing Neanderthal! Well done on the oil change. OK, the wishbone bushes would appear worn - not uncommon. Whether that is the actual cause of your noise?? - but if they need changing, then changed they must be. Incase it helps:- I would only use Lemforder wishbones if not using genuine VAG. There are other aftermarket brands available cheaper, but this brand is well respected. Search EBay for best deals on Lemforder. Kind regards, Gareth.

Good points Steve. Indeed any (in caps) over 20 year old Ford will be an investment and will be worthy of renovation. Unfortunately it cannot be claimed that any ( again in caps) Audi of similar vintage can currently claim the same status. In the future ? No doubt virtually any fossil fuel vehicle is likely to follow the same ‘investment’ route if (certainly in caps) we are allowed to keep them without wallet buckling tax penalties - just look at the volume of low mileage prestige cars currently coming into the country due to the Japanese owners considering the tax liabilities not worth supporting. We are talking a humble car here, and some of the opinions mentioned will be valid, but let’s hope someone does come along and take it on. If not, then the forum has provided the OP with some positive alternatives. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Charlotte, Wrong battery = your current battery is not an AGM type which is the norm for the stop/start function vehicles. This battery type requires the ‘intelligent charging’ alternator, and if you don’t have the correct one then it will wreck the correct battery and vice versa. How long have you had the car? Just wonder if someone had swopped the battery before sale, and then the original alternator gives issues because it’s dealing with charging an incorrect battery type - and that maybe where you came in! I think the parasitic drain may well be an additional issue, but it may be sorted via. fitting the correct battery and alternator. Note:- the battery ( and alternator?) may well have to be coded to the car when it is fitted. Wonder what your plan is now with the car Charlotte.? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, The wipers will not work unless the bonnet I’d fully closed - so there is a connection between the two. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Martin, You’ve now posted the same message 4 times! The last message being after my reply. Not sure what you are trying to achieve with these multiple posts. Perhaps you can let us know. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, You certainly have the right sentiment, but in reality, you may find it’s not that easy ‘to give it away’ as you think. You have to recognise that someone will have to invest money and time to restore the car, and the simple parts expenditure may render this as not such an economical proposition as may be expected. Add to this the cost of transportation and you could find the takers are limited. If this were mine, I would be approaching my local ethnics college ( who have a motor vehicle section) to see if they would take it for work demonstration purposes - they may. What better home than it being used to teach skills to a new generation. Of course, someone on here may well show interest. Hope some of this helps, Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Martin, If you search for commercial vehicle hydraulic specialists in your area then they may be able to get some made up to your pattern. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dominica, Your are very welcome to all the advice given on here, since no one wants to see anyone in difficulties. The MOT should provide you with acceptable evidence to be able to proceed with a claim on this since it represents a specified acceptable standard for any vehicle. As such, I cannot see any Small Claims judge questioning the validity of the test you are about to get done. If it were me, I would be notifying the seller ( by e-Mail will do) that you are going to take it for an MOT and you will forward them copy of the outcome. Since the date of sale and the mileage you have covered since purchase will be relatively close, I would consider it reasonable to claim that the condition of the car as bought will be close enough to the condition as tested. If the car fails on corrosion or any other major defects, I would beware of any desire the seller may express to have the car back to carryout their own assessment. If things get difficult then just tell them that you are referring the matter to Trading Standards. You may find yourself having to pay to get the car transported back to the seller, but…. Perhaps you would let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dan, Worth trying swopping back tyres to front - and vice versa? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dominica, Many thanks for the useful additional information. Point for point:- Great that you are not using it - that will aid your case. ‘Can’t present the car for MOT earlier than one month…….’ Not correct as I understand it. e.g. You get stopped by the police who suspect the car is unroadworthy, and you have to present it for MOT to prove whether it is or not. Are you confusing the ‘one month before…’ with the fact that if you present it for an MOT within one month of the expiry of the current MOT then the expiry of the new MOT is extended to the expiry date of the current one. Any MOT testers on here to confirm or refute that’s? Well worth you checking with VOSA. Advert description - ‘Excellent condition inside and out…’ = what it says, and that trade description must be proved to be correct. Do you have a V5 for the car yet? If so, check that it’s not endorsed as an insurance total loss. It would be worth you paying a modest cost to have the car ‘HPI’ checked, unless you did before buying. Boiling this down, I would seriously be going down the route of presenting the car for MOT. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Did you negotiate the price of the car down? If so, was there any chance that you were informed that you were then buying it on a trade or similar basis?

Hello David, Yes you can. Worth investing in a premium brand filter if not using a genuine VAG one. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dominica, Thanks for being in touch, and sorry to hear of your issue with this car. I asked for the MOT date to see if it was tested within the last three months, which I understand to be the time limit within which you can challenge the validity of the test in terms of unacceptable structural corrosion. Unfortunately, it’s too late in this case. I would agree with your garage’s opinion of the car - based on your photos - but of course, anyone on here would need to have access to the car to fully assess the true extent and severity. I think you have done the right thing in taking advice from CAB, and acting on it, and yes, if the dealer is not prepared to take the car back and fully refund you, then yes, the small claims court is a way forward. However, this is not going to come cheap, since you will need to get a professional report on the car - and this is likely to cost in excess of £150, and you would need that assessor to be available at court to be questioned (again an added cost). If you win - and the chances are you would - then you still have to get your money off the seller, and as I understand it, that might not be as simple as it would seem. Sorry to be pessimistic, but as they say, plan for the worse, and hope for the best. Of course, a cheaper way forward in terms of assessing the car would be to present it for an MoT now, and use that as evidence. Downside:- if the car fails (as you would expect it to do) then you cannot continue to use it. So you have a difficult choice between these two courses of action, as I see it. Would you be able to do without use of the car if you go down the MOT route? On the Devil’s advocate approach, did you make any attempt to look underneath the car before you agreed to buy it? If you didn’t, then this could be considered as unusual, and somewhat remiss on your part, and it could be said that you are not blame free in terms of the situation you now find yourself in. Yes, harsh, but be prepared for this. For what it’s worth:- Did you buy the car locally? Did you look at it before agreeing to buy it? Exactly how did the seller word their advertisement? Is the seller a small or large car sales concern? Hope some of this helps, and perhaps you would be kind enough to colour in the additional bits of detail for us. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dominica, Excuse the lack of pleasantries at the moment. Could you please let us know the date the car was last MOT’d please? Kind regards, Gareth.

As Cliff points out, ‘choc blocks’ as I call them are used (where absolutely necessary) on domestic electrical installations , so are capable of handling voltages and currents beyond what would be encountered on auto electrics. So in my book, they are fine to use - if space allows. Taking Keith’s point about strands of wires straying away from the actual terminal bore, then I overcome this by first soldering the stub end which then fits nicely into the terminal, and provides a good gripping area for the terminal screw to bite into. Crimp terminals? Now there’s a different story, and personally I don’t like them, based on too many becoming detached, despite using the correct crimping tool. If it turns out it is a must to use them, then again I solder the ends of the wires to improve the bite. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Michael, Thanks for being in touch with the forum. I think you need to be more specific with your description of the panels you need, and let us know what searches you have made so far. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks John, Success in part! No quotes now, but still the attached photos I’m afraid. Can you delete the photos from wherever you have filed them? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello………….? I need to break this down into logical steps:- Audi say this work needs to be done - to effectively see if these deficiencies are the cause of your flapping noise. If it were mine, I would not go forward with this major expense based on that logic. Repeating:- I would get the car inspected by a trusted local garage so that they can decide whether (a) what Audi are saying is wrong, is indeed completely justified, and (b) If it is, is this necessary work likely to be associated with the source of your noise. I would not put money on it, but I don’t have the car and I’m not privy to the noise. If you are asking whether this work can be undertaken by yourself, then in my opinion it would be no - if only because you are asking and presumably don’t appreciate what or how to do it! Perhaps you could let us know how you get on with this inspection. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. We still don’t know what your name is, because you don’t tell us. I wonder if you would be kind enough not to quote my reply in yours, since it just keeps repeating photos of your car again and again.

Hello Robert, Is it CPiM who have the flywheel? For peace of mind, can you get a Sachs clutch kit from some other supplier, even if you pay a little more? Whatever, personally I would not be too concerned about mixing the brand names used by the same manufacturer. As a matter of interest, do you intend doing this work yourself or entrusting it to a garage? If a garage, you may find that will not be too keen on giving you a guarantee for the job, if you are supplying the parts, so worth checking. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks….., Sounds like wishbone bushes etc.etc. No mention of the cause of your flapping noise. Are they saying that noise is caused by their findings? If this were mine, I would be getting this car inspected by a trusted local garage and obtain a quote from them for what they consider actually needs doing. Audi’s quote for £252 for wheel alignment beggars belief!, so you need to get a more detailed estimate of what does warrant renewing here - and of course, what is the cause of your flapping noise! If wishbones have to be renewed then beware of what aftermarket parts will be used at your local garage. I would recommend Lemforder. Let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Apologies for being grumpy, but why are you filling up my computer memory with all these photos?

Many thanks Derek, and particularly Keith. Now I understand it! It seems pretty simple to work out how much length off the 160cm wide roll, will be needed, by measuring the size of each panel, and allowing say 10% for overage. If you are in difficulties Derek, you can always Google a local upholster and ask him to measure how much material will be needed. Following a quick glance at the website you refer to, it seems they will not (currently) supply to the U.K. and probably won’t in the near future, but you can send them a contact message, and I’m sure they will have a good idea of the material quantity you will need from the car’s description and attached photos. Kind regards, Gareth.