Magnet

Hello Alison, Many thanks for keeping this forum updated on the situation. I'm sorry that my pessimistic view on the outcome proved to be realistic, and I must say, I sympathise with you and the fact that you now have a car which now performs unacceptably- to a point where you would not buy it following a test run, and indeed they would be unlikely to sell to anyone else for the same reason. I must say I "like" the bit that you agreed to allow them to modify this car, so you cannot complain about the resultant performance! Funny, if it was not so serious. Where now? Not reversible back to its performance before they modified it? I would want this in writing from the dealer principal following his consultation with Audi, and I would be setting a time limit of 7 days to receive this. If you do not receive it, then if it were me, I would be into the maximimum publicity mode via. as many of the media contacts you can find for such things - giving the Audi dealer/Audi the courtesy of informing them first. To me, this treatment is just not acceptable, particularly since the intial issue was VAG's organisation fault. You should not be left holding the baby without any form of redress. Good luck Alison - but I hope you don't need it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alison, Sorry to hear of your problems. As Trevor points out, this does not appear to be untypical after this recall, and I would think there isn't any doubt that the car is no longer what it was in terms of its performance - and I would anticipate, it's economy. Re, on one else has complained!? -well there are a couple on on this forum as I recall, and if it were mine I think I would be scanning the VW and Skoda forums and listing those who are discontent. Might be an idea to do this before ringing your contact. I fear you may not get very far with this, but this may be rather pessimistic and let's hope I'm wrong, and you can get the sense you deserve. If I'm right, it would be interesting to ask the question of simply returning the car's performance to what it originally was, and pointing out that if the car had been taken to the dealer for routine servicing and had been returned with a decreased performance then you would expect them to rectify whatever the fault was - reasonable question I think. Final positive point - if all else fails, would it be possible to have the car mapped back to its original performance? Not my field, but perhaps Trevor and others could comment on this possibility. Perhaps you could let us know how things pan out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tj, Have mentioned these in other posts from time to time:- Rainsworth Skoda ( think they operate as Skoda parts shop on EBay). Do mail order. Obviously genuine VAG parts direct from the dealer. I've always found them helpful to deal with, and supply parts at discount. No connection, and no doubt there are others. Hope this helps, Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tj, Always difficult to diagnose without access to the vehicle, but I would suggest it's worth getting the injectors tested. If it were mine, I would be looking for a recommended diesel specialist in your area rather than an Audi dealer or independent. The reference to glow plug issues seems a little odd, since you don't mention that the car is difficult to start from cold. I would invest in some diesel specialist advice/basic checks before changing the glow plugs. Let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, I certainly agree with Trevor and Bradley, and I think you are on the right lines to be concerned to get the servicing items changed now so you have a good base point to move foreward from. This is diesel? Replacing the fuel filter would be a good idea as well as what has been mentioned. Also the often overlooked but well used wiper blades. Try Bosch Aerotwins - there are others but...You say it's had a basic oil and filter service. Do you know what make of oil has been used and what filters? I have a thing about using main dealer (or maybe good quality German parts) for service items rather than slightly cheaper brands - on the basis that your labour is cheap! - so spend your saving wisely on good quality parts and oil. Same with timing belt and assembly and particularly ( in capitals really!) the water pump please just don't replace it with anything other than VAG. IF you want to save a few shillings on the cambelt and tensioners then I would only go with Gates as the second option. There are discounts available with some VAG dealers so shop around. I can give you one contact if it helps. Yes, good idea about changing the coolant. Good luck with it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jas and welcome to Audi ownership. I think your sentiments in regard to maintenance are sound, but it has to be appreciated that this car is virtually new and under warranty, and anything you do to it on a DIY basis - even with the best of intentions - might just run the risk of invalidating that warranty, so beware of any over-kill. As I understand it, you can opt for a longlife schedule or a normal service schedule, and depending on your normal journeys and driving style, the longlife service interval could run to near to 20K, and a longlife oil would be used. I think Quantum Longlife 3 (observing correct grade and spec.) is/was used by some main dealers. If it were mine Jas, I might think about opting for a shorter service interval at the dealer and still insist on their Longlife oil being used for these more regular services. This would be a well intentioned belt and bracers approach. Whatever, I would be very careful about doing anything on a DIY basis until it's out of warranty. If you still feel you want to take the risk then I would advise at least buying the oil and filter from your local main dealer, and keeping the receipt. Enjoy it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Marco, Absolutely what you don't want. If it were mine, I would want to get this to a trusted independent. Anyone able to advise Marco of one in his area? Spend once and wisely in terms of both parts and labour. Parts - I would go for LUK if not using genuine VAG. Any other aftermarket make- ?? I really hope you can get out of this with the minimum of extra hassle. Kind regards, Gareth.

Appreciating your point Darren, but I think it would be good to at least encourage Marco to follow all avenues of redress, and if it fails - well at least - good try. Any sale hinges on description vs. actual condition. Without some positives, I feel Marco is going to be left with a car he cannot use, and one where the economics work that it's not worth getting someone to repair it. Anyone in his area who might help out? - wherever in "England" he is! Where are you Marco? I wish him good luck. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Marco, OK, so you bought this privately and you don't even get home without the car sounding rough and the clutch is shown to be faulty within 3 days. If it was purchased from a trader then it would simply be a matter of returning it for discussion. Having bought it privately, I believe it still has to satisfy the description of the advert, so I it could well be worth checking how it was described and if there as any reasonable cause from that description that led you to believe the car was fit for purpose then it could well be worth contacting the Cit. Ad. and get their opinion. You will often see adverts which simply states " Goes and stops" and perhaps "no warning lights" but little else. The absence of any indication of its condition is seen as sensible by the seller. Another point to investigate - and I guess you knew the answer before you bought it - how long did the person you bought it off, own it? Indeed was it registered in his name? All checks worth investigating before you feel you are left holding the baby on this. Good luck, Gareth.

Hello Marco, Very sorry to hear of your problems. When you say the clutch has gone, what symptoms do you have? Did you buy the car privately or from a garage? Mileage as a matter of interest? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Huw, Where on earth do a I start? Good question since the simple circuits of years ago have been supplemented by control units which control things we would ever have thought of. By what you say, it could be reasonable to suspect the indicator stalk, but as Trevor says any of the associated contacts - including the earth of 'what on earth!' may be at fault. Not being one to give up on DIY cures, but access to curcuit information, metering equipment and experience of such issues on certain models are really essential requirements. Let's hope someone might come up with a solution, but if not, sometimes a hour of an auto electrician's time might be a wirthwhile consideration. Not sure what part of S. Wales you are from, but there is a good one man band auto electrician in Bridgend - of course there will be others. Hoping you get some more advise on how to cure it. Kind regards, Gareth.

I take Trevor's point, but if it were mine, I would take it that with 7000 miles recorded at the time of sale, the dealer should consider that it does not need servicing when you take delivery. It will however then require a service when you reach 10,000 miles. Boiled down:- dealer services it (early) before you buy, then you need to have it serviced at 17,000. Dealer doesn't service before you buy it, then you need to service it at 10,000. I guess the 10,000 mile interval will be that or 1 year - whatever comes first. I think if I were buying then I would opt to let it run to 10k, and then have an arrangement with the dealer to return it for a free service at the 10K. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andrew, My money would be spent on getting the injectors checked. The unburnt diesel smell would point me in that direction. Probably not a pleasant vehicle to be around! I take it the fuel filter has been replaced to schedule with a good quality unit - not that it is likely to improve anything with your symptoms on its own, but it is always good practice to reduce the chances of such problems. You could try some injector cleaner in with the fuel since the cost would be minimal and it might - just might - improve the situation. Good luck with getting it sorted. Kind regards, Gareth.

I just wonder whether this thread should be under a prominent heading/ subsection of its own. It really does seem to be a cause for concern, and as such members asking for advice have to trawl through threads to find opinion and experience already gained. Any possibility Trevor? Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. I would not see this as an anti "update" thread, if the thread is easily accessible without search, since it is then far more likely to encourage owners with positive responses to post their views as well.

Hello Daniel, Welcome to the forum, and let's hope someone can source these and help you with sound advice on whether they will fit - all important before you buy! I just wonder if there is anyone else in your neck of the woods who might help you out simply on a trial to fit. I think you are wise to avoid replica wheels, and it sounds you are going about this the right way. The only thing I would add is to ask whether the wheels you are considering ( if indeed they will fit) were available as an alternative fitment to the ones fitted now (from new?). If not - and assuming they do fit- then you should really cover your bum and check this out with your insurers. Some may want to increase the premium, some may not, some may not want to insure the car. Of course, you could take a chance, but a chance it would be Daniel, and you would only find out if you were insured when you try to claim. A bit pessimistic, but better to keep this in mind if and when decide to change. Good luck with it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Russ, When you say warm, does the car still get up to normal operating temperature as quickly as it should, and not exceed normal on the gauge. We would need to know this before offering meaningful advice. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Brad. Very sorry to hear of your misfortune - just what you don't want. Regarding how this occurred, I would doubt that someone has kicked this, since it is somewhat high for that , and if someone was going to kick the door then I would have thought they would have saved themselves a fair amount of effort and kicked it much further down. Are we noticing scratches further down the panel? For so, were these part of the same damage? Now this might sound daft, but possibly a fairly substantial bird (flying type!) flying into it. I recall this sort of damage to the front of an XR2 many years ago and that was a slow moving impact with a blackbird sized bird. Appreciate yours is side on. Possibly someone's no-folding mirror? Not sure if any of this helps Brad. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mark, Being Welsh is a bonus! A warm welcome from further down the road. Would the Audi convertible be keeping company with a superb A35 etc? If so, now you are thinking! The answer is in Graham's pal. If I'm right, I should see you about in a couple of months time as the shows start. Welcome to the forum. Kind regards, Gareth.

I'm looking at the component (engine mounting?) at 7 o'c in the photo. If this is typical of the remaining components underneath then this is surprising for a less than two year old car. Personally, I'd still be looking at a build date for this, so you can do some homework. Purchased at Audi main dealer? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kim, Very sorry to hear of your misfortune, and it's a distressing need for an introduction into the forum. Let's look at this from a back to basics and the cost becomes logical. Autoglass will repair and replace your car glass if it is available, but I doubt whether convertible hood rear screens comes under that heading - probably with most makes. Audi becomes the next port of call, and because it's a request for a likely slow moving part for a 7 year old model, then the price is going to be sky high. Well you told us that, but at least it makes some economic sense, so you now have to look for economic alternatives. Impossible to fit a new rear screen into your existing hood? I seriously doubt it's impossible. Useful contacts would be classic car trimmers - they are used to making bespoke hoods and should be not be frightened off by this. Google searches should give you some contacts, but try approaching local classic car clubs for all important recommendations. We have the old established Jack Smiths down here at Swansea and you should be able to get his number (and recommendations) via. Lotus (I think it is ) forums. If you fail let me know. I know it's a long way from Surrey, but you could have a free weekend in Mumbles on what these boys charge in relation to others! They are seriously cheap in comparison, and I believe they also do work for insurance companies. Other alternatives will of course include scrap yards who may just have a rear screen from a salvaged one with normally vandalised roof fabric. You could do searches via. Partfinder - I think it is, but there will be others. This misfortune could work in your favour if they do write it off and you buy the salvage, but be aware that the car's subsequent value will be less and of course, bang goes your NCB despite it being of no fault of yours. Not on, but true. I hope you are able to sort something out Kim. Let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, Clifford has a good point, of course. I must put my hand up and confess that I don't wash the underside very often either (quite frequent for the paintwork) and although our 11 year old, c140K, A3 obviously has some surface rust on non- bodywork underparts, I would say it doesn't seem as severe as your 2 year old car - judging by your limited coverage photos. I think it's a great idea to have an independent to look at it in detail in the first place, and I would suggest they take some good quality photos of anything they think excessive for the age. Armed with this, you can then consult with the dealer who did your service, before contacting VAG customer services. One thing which might be worth checking on ( your independent may assist ) would be to get a build date from the VIN and compare it with the date of first registration. Has this been hanging around in a field before being registered? Others on here might be able to point you in the right direction to obtain this information. Just as a matter of interest, did you buy it new? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, Outer edge corrosion of discs is a fact of life and occurs since water gets thrown outwards off the disc to the disc's outer edge. Once upon a time when I had hair and brake pads contained asbestos, you would find that discs lasted far longer before this characteristic became as severe as it does now, and the discs lasted far longer. Now, it is not uncommon to have to change discs at the same intervals as changing pads. What you will find is that the more the disc thickness wears away, then obviously the greater the rate of corrosion on the non- wearing outer edge. Since the dealer is not telling you that the discs are nearing their minimum thickness, then I feel there isn't anything too serious to worry about, and I would have thought that Audi would not entertain any claim on this. Now what does concern me on a barely 2 year old car, is the amount if corrosion on the centre (hub) section of the disc and equally important the section - cross beam? - we see in the bottom left of the photo. If this was my vehicle, I would want to see this up on a ramp and inspect the surface rust situation on all underbody components and if appears to be as the sectioin in the photo shows, then I would be requesting Audi to look at this, and treat it before it gets worse. Hope this is of some help. Kind regards, Gareth.

I'm of the same opinion as Bradley and Darren on this, but the only thing I would add is that if you buy a high mileage vehicle you must buy it on condition and price. Both are important, since a high mileage (even full service history) poorly looked after car will be very undesirable when you come to resell it. Equally a nice condition high mileage car must be bought cheap - as Darren has- since again when you have to resell it, the only thing that will attract will be the price you sell it at compared with the price of an average mileage example. My last bit of advice would be never to fall in love with it before you buy it! This has the potential for serious health implications on your wallet! Love it only after you have bought it and used it. Good luck with whatever you decide. Kind regards, Gareth.

I'm trying to look at this from Darren and Clifford's points of view, and I have no doubt at all that pumping Mr. Muscle into the vanes of the turbo will indeed clean them. After all, this is a caustic type cleaner which will most certainly take the skin off your hands! -as well as the burnt grease from your oven, so it should take soot off the turbo vanes without any doubt. Now back to Clifford's point that he would not encourage its use, is based on good argument, since this going to get into your engine, and under extreme pressure. Most of the components of the engine through which air passes and gets combusted when it mixes with fuel are constructed of aluminium, and probably (don't have a Mr. Muscle to hand) Mr. Muscle would state it should not be used on such material. I can indeed imaging the pleasure in watching all that soot coming out of the exhaust following this, but then the realisation that this fluid has passed through every combustion component and found its way out through the catalytic converter for an encor. Pleasure? - or blinking heck? Probanly, the answer is to remove the turbo and clean the vanes and refit, but of course this entails far more work, and is far less of a quickie fix. Just an observation. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mei, I would guess the emphasis on your complaint is not not being able to get a replacement screw from another source as Trevor suggests, but the fact that if you choose to get it from Audi, then they force you to buy associated bits which you don't want - and that is a fair point. The hard fact is that car manufacturers supply spare parts and have to stock these parts pending a request from someone. They also have to have an individual part number for every sub part and yes, I agree it would be great if every nut, bolt, washer, screw, fastener was available as a separate item. However, the system to indentify each of these would simply result in it being uneconomical for them to stock the part - so part unavailable! I applaud your attempts, but I fear you aren't going to get anywhere with this, and you just as well wander down to your local hardware store and buy one, and take satisfaction from supporting a local business. I am not pro Audi with this - having the same issues with a broken centre arm rest clip on an A3. You've guessed it - you have to buy the arm rest top! Still nice cars though. Kind regards, Gareth.