Magnet

Hello Bard, I think that you will find that the sensors receive their signal from the hub, which has a weak type of magnet imbedded in them. With the right diagnostic equipment, it should be possible to determine which wheel is at fault. Once you have established that, then you may find you will have to change the complete hub assembly, if you have already renewed the sensor with a good quality one without success. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Charlie. You now have some tracing back to do then. If this were mine, I would now be investing in an hour’s time with a trusted local auto electrician. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Paul, Apologies for being pedantic, but please confirm it is the whirring noise which you are enquiring about. Please also confirm what engine is in this car. Sounds like a rather noisy diesel to my poor hearing but obviously not! If we are indeed talking the whirring noise, then it sounds rather like a belt or tensioner. My advice would be to find another garage to diagnose this, and perhaps taking the auxiliary belt off and checking if the noise disappears. I guess your garage is going to refit your old starter motor. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Charlie, Have you done a voltage and earth check at the headlight connection? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Many thanks for being in touch with the forum. My hearing is pretty shot, so it’s difficult for me to diagnose, but are you talking about the whirring noise immediately on starting, or any background noise once running. If the whirring noise then it sounds like a belt or bearing noise, but.....? I take it it’s diesel - could you please confirm? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stuart, If this were mine, I would not be jumping to conclusions, but getting the necessary simple checks done to confirm or refute the assumptions. Can I suggest you first get your garage to carryout a pressure measurement on the coolant pressure when the engine is up to temperature. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Justin, Have a look a the wiring in the flexible section of the harness which links the body to the tailgate. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Clive, Sounds like you are going to have to cobble up a length of wiring to link both sides, if no such wiring exists. Will that interfere with any warning messages?? I must say, it surprises me that these are only fitted with one high intensity fog light as standard. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Emil, Everything depends on your personal situation, the use to which the car will put, your ‘insurance record’ etc. Please read my basic principles of classic car insurance if ( in caps) it would be applicable to you. Just let the forum know if you think it may, and we can give you some contacts. If it doesn’t, then just follow Shytot’s advice and pass everything through the comparison sites as most people do. As he says, ensure you add on the extras you require for your particular needs, rather than just going for the cheapest.

Hello Richard, You could try a new switch, but try will be the operative word, since you don’t know that there isn’t any stored information that the oil pressure was actually low when last used. If it were mine, I wouldn’t now be just changing the sensor (programming-in part?) but first getting the actual running pressure assessed. That way, there is unlikely to be any assumption associated with your issue. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Aiden, You sent me a ‘report’ - to action? - but there isn’t any text with it. Perhaps you would be kind enough to let the forum know what the perceived issue is. Kind regards, Gareth.

Try Malcolm at Aberdeen Audi, Robert - they are usually quite accommodating on discounts - appreciating Audi discs are not cheap, but at least you will have a discount marker price if you do find an aftermarket supplier. Kind regards, Gareth.

The come-back against a private seller will depend on how the advert description compares with the vehicle. That’s why some adverts just say ‘Starts, stops, runs’! etc.

Hello Chris, My primary concern would be to know how much oil this car is actually burning, since it appears that it is sufficient to oil up the plugs. What is its oil consumption Chris? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, Thanks for the additional information. No criticism intended, but it’s yet another case of the disadvantages of buying any vehicle (ex internet search?) and the comparative impracticalities for any offered warranty. The theory is that the seller must be allowed to correct any faults, and the warranty may (in caps) dictate that faults found within period x of the sale date, must be financed by the seller. Some (many?) warranties allow the buyer to get the car repaired at a garage of their choice, but it’s not uncommon for garages to not want to be involved due to the potential wait for payment. Anyway, and hour with the small print will tell you where you stand. In my experience, noises are not characteristic of a model. The car is trying to tell you something. Possible clutch issues? Carefully check your warranty for any ‘wear and tear’ exclusions. Temperature gauge fluctuations? Not normal and quite likely to be what I said. Your call John, but if it were me, I would still be following my earlier advice regarding notifying the seller. You can specifically ask that you get the car inspected at your local Audi dealer, but again, I would get that done with the minimum of delay if they agree. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, Many thanks for being in touch. ‘Metallic high pitched rattle’ :- It is always very difficult/ impossible? , to diagnose such issues without test driving and examining the car, so unfortunately you boil down guesses, like timing chain ( if chain driven) and/or a result of the timing being advanced enough to cause the engine to pink under load. ‘...felt through the clutch pedal...’ guessing again - possibly DMF issues would tie in with this. Variable coolant temperature? My first port of call would be defective thermostat. Right, having said all that, you should not have to be concerned with the causes, but certainly concerned about their rectification, and you should be informing the seller (in writing) of what the issues are. Taking it to an Audi dealer? I certainly wouldn’t, without the consent and agreement of the seller, otherwise they could rightly claim that a third party had been interfering with the car. To me, time would be of the essence in terms of notifying the seller - I would be doing this as a matter of urgency, rather than Googling the symptoms to death! Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Steve, I think it’s time to agree to disagree on motor manufacturers not placing specifications on major component and material suppliers, and it maybe irrelevant to know that my working role was associated with the control of such material supplies and specifications. Still... As I said, I definitely cannot, and certainly don’t want to, challenge your extensive user experience, and I’m sure that that experience is, and will be, of benefit to folks wishing to consider what brands they may wish to fit to their vehicles. I think my many difference of opinion rests with your claim that ‘a brake pad is a brake pad, is simply a brake pad’. I’ll ignore the bit about ‘no practical experience........not fair and unbiased advice’. And the ‘inane analogy’ which, if it actual is, maybe considered so, since it just doesn’t fit into the argument logic! Anyway... Many thanks again Steve, Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Tony, Sorry to hear of your issue, and I’m not sure what investigation work you have carried out to date to try to eliminate some of the numerous possible causes. Perhaps you could let us know. Whatever, I think you are now going down the responsible road of getting this professionally looked at as a matter of urgency - irrespective of the limited remaining warranty period. Again, perhaps you could eat us know the outcome. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Kevin, I would suggest you take the car to you local trusted tyre retailer and get them to remove the nuts. If they have been put on with an impact gun on full torque then you are going to need an unreasonable amount of non impact leverage to remove them. The tyre caps are also likely to have the special sockets to remove rounded nuts. I would be arming myself with a new set of wheel nuts/studs beforehand, and then ensuring they are torqued to the correct torque. It might just be my experience, but many tyre bays put the nuts on with an impact gun, then carefully get the torque wrench out to make sure it clicks! Goodness knows what they are actually torqued to. Kind regards, Gareth.

I certainly don’t question your experience Steve, but your final paragraph disproves your theory that manufactures don’t supply to individual specifications. Apologies for labouring the point made in your first paragraph - so it would appear that a manufacturing supplier supplying let’s say Tesco, would supply the same specification for Tesco Finest as they would for Tesco Value then - since it wouldn’t make fiscal sense to do otherwise?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Price Matt?

That’s better Syed. So you added the correct quantity of oil, and you don’t have an oil leak. Logic would point to a faulty oil level sensor - or does it have to be recalibrated at every oil change?

So what is the listed handbook capacity for an oil and filter change then? ‘ ....around 7 litre...’ . - was that what you put in, or was that what you were supposed to put it? Not sure I like the ‘around’ bit. Kind regards, Gareth.

Exactly what volume of oil did you put in the car Sayed, in comparison with what was quoted in the owners handbook under ‘engine oil capacity including filter’? We take it you also renewed the oil filter. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Robert, and it’s clear that you obviously asked the sensible questions relating to the main dealer’s ambiguous report. If this were mine, I would simply be placing my trust in the local garage’s inspection, and be following their guidance regarding the need to do anything in a hurry. Discs ‘lip’, and the lip often appears worse due to the inevitable increased corrosion on the extreme outer rim. The all important bit is to have the overall thickness measured against the minimum allowable thickness limit. Again, discs score, so the garage will be able to assess the severity against normal. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Robert, but I sense a ‘no panic’ outcome at this stage. Kind regards, Gareth.