Magnet

Hello Geoff, Thanks for coming back on this. If charging the battery has had an influence on the severity of the problem, then it may indeed point to a failing battery issue. It will be interesting to know how it is after a good 20 mile run. The fact that the battery accepts a charge may not be the full story in effect of its serviceability. For example, if (in caps) the vehicle is equipped with a battery monitoring system, that system might be detecting below par battery characteristics and will start to influence certain systems. My non- Audi experience of this showed that although the battery passed the old conventional ‘drop test’, the battery was borderline unserviceable in terms of its monitored cold cranking efficiency - as detected, only on sophisticated diagnostics. Steering column UJ issue? Personally I doubt it, but.... Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Andy, Sorry, but I wonder why you want to spend, probably a large sum of money, to have a gearbox rebuilt. Perhaps you could fill in a bit of detail. In the absence of the full story, my thoughts would point me towards a good secondhand one at a reasonable price. Worth trying on line search companies such as Partsfinder etc. although many breakers may not be operating, but there again, probably neither will gearbox reconditioners. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Geoff, On the basis of simple things first:- As Steve says - suspect the battery. Possibly now getting passed its best if stop/start function enabled. In normal circumstances, I would advise a good 20 mile run, switch off and retest. Now - leave the engine tick over for 20 mins., switch off and retry. If you have an ‘intelligent’ (in caps) charger suitable for charging AGM and stop start technology, then charge the battery for at least 12 hours, or as charger programme dictates. Test again to see if symptoms have disappeared. Perhaps you could let the forum know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello ?, Sorry to hear of your issue with this fairly new car. From your description, I would hazard a guess that this issue may have been caused by a faulty clutch release bearing assembly, but of course, the full story will not be evident until it is stripped. Whatever, Audi have to ask themselves whether a car which has covered only 2,600 miles (take it your earlier ref. to additional 20,000 miles is a typo?) has proved to be fit for purpose. One would expect that they cannot claim that in your case. If (in caps) Audi fail to honour the repair under warranty then I would be informing the selling dealer -in writing - that you will be getting the car repaired at another main dealer and will be requesting a report on the condition of the clutch assembly, which you will pass to them, together with the full repair bill for their reimbursement of the charges paid by you. Also inform them that should they still maintain that they will not meet that bill, then you will seek reimbursement via. the small claims court. It may be worth seeking advice from the CAB (if currently operating to any degree). Did you buy the car via. a finance arrangement? If so, I would be informing the finance company that the car is unfit for purpose. Even if Audi UK will not repair this car under warranty, then as I see it, the selling dealer has to honour any major failures which reasonably occur during the first 6 months following sale. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Although passing this to the Ombudsman may be an option, this is likely to take at least 6 weeks to resolve - during which time you will be unable to use the car - then you have to arrange repair after that.

Hello David, Curtis hasn’t revisited the forum for over 6 months. Probably better to send him a PM. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dave, Batteries and service life? No longer any guarantee that they will last the warranty period -as you say! Recently had a battery fail catastrophically on a 15 month old non Audi, to the extent that it wouldn’t even start with jump leads. Also, one on a prestige vehicle which was just 3 months out of manufacturer’s warranty. All important - what make battery are you now buying? Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. 50mA is nearer the drain once everything has shut down.

I have a genuine Audi Cambelt kit - Part no. 06A-198-119-B for sale - all new, boxed, with an expiry date of 01/2024, so current stock rather than new-old-stock. Believed to be the correct fitment for the 1.8 A3 to 2003; A4 1.8 to 2001; and the TT 1.8 to 2006, but please check these applications to ensure this information is correct. The all important bit of the part number is the last letter (B in this case) which dictates the application. Will also fit same engined Seat and VW? These kits have a recommended retail price of £130. Will accept £45 plus p&p. Sorry no offers. Please message me for further details if necessary. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dave, Might be worth removing the connector onto the alternator as a trial. Might be (only might be!) discharging through a faulty alternator. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Aaron, I guess you have checked how many owners it has had and importantly how long the last owner has owned it. Also when the cambelt was last changed - assuming it has a belt rather than chain. Schedule believed to be every 5 years irrespective of mileage, so this 11 year old car should be due next year unless done (with evidence) within the last 5 years. If chain - tensioner needs respect. Guess you’ve checked it out on HPI re insurance history etc. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, Yes, I would think an e-mail will do to start. Personally, I think ‘the story’, how it’s panned out, what actions have been taken, and what the proposed action plan is must be recorded in one document at this point in time. E-mails are fine as a record, but I would certainly be following it up in writing and sending it by Recorded Delivery. If the dealer is closed, and there isn’t anyone to accept the letter, then it should be returned to you. If it isn’t, you can assume it’s been received, but your idea of supplementing it with an e-mail, can only help your case in the longer term. Good luck with sorting it out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Ian, Sorry to hear of your issue. If this were mine, I would be formally writing to the dealer principal and informing them of your discontent with the car. I would mention that you understand the problem has been assessed, agreed and reported on by their technicians, and the matter is now in the hands of Audi Germany. In view of the current situation, you are obviously prepared to await the outcome of that, but should the problem escalate through continued use, you will not be prepared to accept any contributory blame. Most important bit:- if the issue is not resolved in a reasonable timescale then you intend to formally reject the car. Ok, you may have indicated all the above, but you would be wise to formalise it in writing. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Paul, Simply changing wheel diameters is not straightforward - spigots or no spigots. It is usually overlooked that the outside diameter of the new larger wheel and tyre, must remain the same as the original standard wheel. This can be achieved by fitting tyres with a lower profile ( assuming the larger wheel is not wider). It needs thought if gearing and speedo readings are to remain accurate - more to it than simply fancying larger diameter wheels. Of course, this is before you find it necessary to inform your insurers that you have non standard wheels fitted, so they don’t invalidate your insurance in the event of a claim. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Nice to see you back Steve.

Hello Keith, A 5amp parasitic drain means that the battery is likely to run flat in less than 24 hours if the car is not used. That is a phenomenal drain, and equivalent to something running a wattage of around 60w - equivalent to at least 10 sidelights being left on. I think you will better understand what needs to be done if you read the threads, but you will need a meter obviously capable of accepting/ measuring currents around 5 amps. Be interested to know how you measured your parasitic drain. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jon, Yes, these are the main dealer discount suppliers I’ve been talking about. Closed now due to the current situation? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gez, To give meaningful advice regarding increasing wheel diameters, you would really need to let the forum know the width and profile of the factory tyres, and the same information regarding the tyres which will be fitted to the larger diameter wheels. The logic is that the combined outside dia. of the new wheel and tyre must be the same as the factory fitted wheels and tyres, to ensure the gearing remains the same. You would also need to inform your insurers that you are fitting non standard wheels to the car - wheels which are a factory option. I would also question the effect on warranty claims. I understand car values have plummeted since the Covid 19 situation. Are you really going to proceed to purchase this car? If so - at the previously agreed price? Kind regards, Gareth.

Who were they then Jon? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Charlie, Disconnecting batteries and leaving them disconnected for comparatively lengthy periods is not good news, and may ( just may) lead to issues with remote locking etc. If this were mine, I would be starting it twice a week and letting it run for around half an hour - assuming you can get it to the exit of your underground car park - so you don’t cause dangerous emissions issues for yourself or others. This procedure is a relatively simple, doesn’t involve any spannering, and is a no hassle way of ensuring the car will start when necessary. If you do get any battery issues then you can then remove the battery , charge overnight and refit. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Mick, I think you are actually in a very strong position if you bide your time. Buying the one you have in mind - possibly sight unseen? Personally, I would be running away from concluding any deal in these troubled times. As I understand it, the desirability/value of used cars has (understandably?) plummeted, and it might be well worth entering the registration number of the car you are interested in into We Buy Any Car, but sit down first. Yes, I know that WBAC prices are near/below trade values, but it will give you a good indicator. Of course, I assume you don’t have to buy a car now, but if you do, I would only be doing so in your own locality - assuming dealers are open, and most aren’t. And if you do have to buy, you hold the ace negotiating card. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello ? Welcome to the forum. It might have helped if you had filled in your location, but you probably didn’t, since you are aware that you are advised not to have visitors to your property in these troubled times. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Chris, I take it you don’t want to pay for a new one and minimise any hassle - assuming you can find a dealer who is open. If I’m right, and you want to buy secondhand, then you could register your want with on-line car breaker search sites such as Partsfinder etc. You enquiry will be circulated to participating breakers who will respond to you if they have what you want - again, assuming they are operating in these troubled times. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Richard, The simple fact is that you had one working key and remote before the locksmith worked on the car. I cannot understand why he would have needed to do anything with that remote, but whatever he has done has resulted in it not working any more. With the exception of an highly unlikely coincidence, whatever he did caused the malfunction of your original key, so it becomes his responsibility to at least get your back to where you were. In my book, yes, get him back. Of course, current circumstances may result in him not working. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Keiren, The poster has not visited the forum since June of last year. I think your best option would be to send him a PM. Kind regards, Gareth.

Not for me to recommend - but for someone in authority who runs this forum? Is it time to recommend ( not a strong enough word) that anyone who has a vehicle fitted with these tyres gets them professionally checked at a tyre retailer without delay? Surely this has been going on long enough, and in sufficient reported frequencies, to deduce there is something significantly and dangerously wrong here - to an extent where this is life threatening. Not to do so would be remiss (again not a strong enough word). Kind regards, Gareth.

Are you looking at genetic on-line motor factor sites and listings?

Wrong kit? Where did you get it from?