Magnet

I’m pretty confident it wouldn’t need to be.

Hello Helen, As I understand it, welding subframes is a no, no and unacceptable for MOT passes. I could be wrong, but if I were you I would be contacting VOSA directly and getting the official dictate, rather than the garage’s opinion, before spending any money in this direction. Let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jamie, The dealer is certainly correct in the amount of work involved in replacing this cheap part. They are also likely to contact you during repair and suggest renewing clutch components as well - resulting in additional 4 figure sum being added. The question is - how severe is this leak? My feeling would be bordering insignificant at this stage, but I could be wrong. If it were mine:- I would get a second opinion from a trusted independent. I would question why you are having this 6 year old car serviced at a main dealer. Kind regards, Gareth,m

Life is full of coincidences. Rover 75? Had one of these with the BMW diesel engine - great. The one I had was a facelift Contemporary and was spec’d to the limited and finished in Seafrost, which I understand they only did in limited numbers in the pre- facelift. Ex MG/ Rover management car. I know exactly what you mean about the MG/R service book being part of the handbook - I have a low mileage MG TF. Jaguars? May I ask what you have Peter. I’ve a long association with this marque. Apologies for going off-thread, but…. Kind regards, Gareth.

The section you have highlighted is an engine lifting bracket. I cannot see it would be necessary to have to remove this to correct an unacceptable operation. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Alan from the Homeland. Apologies for jumping in on this, but I would suggest not overthinking this until you get the battery efficiency checked - Halfords stores will check that. Also get the alternator output checked at the same time. As just mentioned in another thread - come back to us if the battery tests substandard. Your wallet will thank you! Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Steve. Electric power steering? If so, first eliminate the battery as your source of the problem. Halfords stores can measure its efficiency for you. Your wallet will appreciate if you refer back to us if the battery is found to be substandard. Kind regards, Gareth.

Great Peter, Puts me in mind of a BMW I bought at auction at least a couple of decades ago - with no service history. Once home, the service book was found tucked under the passenger seat. Soon learnt after that to check all sort of places where rival bidders may have hidden them! Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks, Not really

Hello Sam, By buying from Black Circle you do so at at your own risk - albeit at some discount. If you shop around locally for best deal then it isn’t your problem if they turn out not to fit. Kind regards, Gareth.

Place your faith with Bagpiping Andy ( via. EBay) for all air suspension issues. Please let us know how you get on.

Try I.M Axles. Please let us know how you get on.

Welcome Edigijus, Just note the wire colour which actually goes to the reverse light bulb holder. Not sure what section of the wiring you are taking the photo of. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Emily, Renewing the (poor brand) battery may not prove to be a cure, so if it were mine, I would be going along to the recommended VAG independent as a next course of action. re. batteries:- simple voltage is no longer king, and neither is its ability to start the car. The car’s systems monitor things like cold cranking current etc.etc. and this may not be up to par. It could well be an instrument cluster issue, but the prior approach must be logical -as said - entrust the final battery and alternator efficiency testing to the independent ( Kwik Fit ?) and then take sound advice from them. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome, The new battery may (just may ) need coding to the car, but 2007 is on the borderline for needing that done. Have you checked the alternator output, and have all battery and starter motor connections been checked? Kind regards, Gareth.

Your only option is to get this one replaced under warranty and hope for the best Aaron. If it were mine, I would also be getting the alternator output checked to ensure it’s not creating daftly over voltages. Let us know how you get on.

Have a look at EBC products.

Thanks Mark, Before investing in a new sensor or anything else, I would just take the car for a 5mile plus run and actually measure the coolant temperature - via. a cheap digital reader. I would suspect the thermostat- but that’s an assumption until the running temperature is assessed.

Hello Siyab, You have a drain of around 8amps - can’t really call it parasitic! I would think that your auto electrician’s advice of sorting out the shorts is sound. I would also disconnect the alternator plug, since current loss through this is a possibility if a diode has gone. Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome Aaron, Genuine VAG replacements or Chinese copies? Kind regards, Gareth.

Sticking.

I would suspect the caliper.

Welcome David, A couple or so questions:- Are you a ‘slow down in anticipation driver’, or have a tendency to be ‘last seconds on the brakes’? Are you renewing these discs yourself, or having them fitted for you? What brand/s have been fitted? Have you read Steve Q’s excellent post about the mating surface of discs and hubs? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Dan, Well worth tapping your registration into Tayna’s website and asking them for recommendations and a quote for Exide. They will probably try to push you towards their ‘own brand’ Enduroline? , but if you stick with the correct Exide, you won’t go far wrong. Kind regards, Gareth.

You are welcome Jeremy, but you have the wrong end of the stick here. Fuses alway, just always blow for a reason, so replacing the fuse isn’t going to solve the problem long term, hence the suggestion to first check if you have 12v arriving at the rear screen. If you do, the problem is after that point. If you don’t, only then do you need to trace back - starting with investigating whether there is a fracture in the flexible harness section twixt body and tailgate - common issue this time of year when temperatures renders wires to be more brittle. Kind regards, Gareth.