Magnet

Thanks Oliver, Shame the original poster asked for advice, got it with 24 hours, looked at it, but decided not to respond in any way. That’s how it goes, it seems. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Joe, Thanks for joining the forum and posting your plea. All the fault codes you show -and more - could (in caps) be associated with a below par battery, but it would be a bit of a coincidence that these should be displayed immediately after you have fitted different wheels sizes - and tyres. What size wheels and tyres were originally fitted? What size wheels and tyres are now fitted? Are the current wheel and tyre sizes listed as alternative fitment for your model, and if so, have you adjusted the tyre pressures to their recommended level? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, Thanks for being in touch. Re. bonding the screen? Google Classic car Trimmers in your area - they should be fully equipped to deal with that for you. If you cannot find any trimmers, then it’s worth asking one of the principals at a local classic car club. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sounds like they fitted new bearings into your old hub then. Rather a labour intensive way of doing it.

Does that include the cost of the part Andy? - hub complete with bearing replaced, or just bearing? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Sid, Are you talking about the driver seat height adjustment lever nor working as it should? If so, manual adjustment seats or electric? So some of the advice offered when you asked for it, did prove to be useful then - yes? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Richard, Many thanks for being in touch, and for joining the forum. Although an Audi specialist could be considered as a sensible first port of call, I’m not surprised that they are disinterested in doing this job on an older vehicle - if only because they might not have a listed time to do it. Yes, the front main bearing may have some wear, but a new, more supple seal will probably effect a reasonable repair. I would be talking with a trusted small local garage as my next port of call. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Jeremy, Thanks for joining the forum, and sorry to hear of your plight. Well worth while registering your ‘want’ with on-line car breaker link sites such as Partsfinder - there are more. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello John, What paint do you want to buy? Touch up, aerosol? If all else fails, then nip it into any main dealer, and there should be enough recentish experience there to identify the colour by name. Getting the code will then be easy. Alternative - you are likely to find the same colour of the same year on an odd car at Tesco’s - or Waitrose if that way inclined! Quite likely the owner can help you. You could also ask at a trusted local bodyshop - there will certainly be experience there. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Matt, Should be plenty of choice on EBay for ‘aftermarket’. Kind regards, Gareth.

Don’t worry Cliff, we will be on to rotors (for brake discs), rocker panels (for sills), hoods (for bonnets) etc., etc. next as Google guides us across that vast water to the land of the Stars and Stripes! For me? - I too will stick with the correct British terminology, but I fear I’m getting too old for this. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Simon, Thanks for joining the forum. Steve has already covered most of the essentials to look for, but if you haven’t been used to buying cars as old as this one, then it’s worth being aware that you are now more likely to encounter the ravages of wear and necessary major servicing requirements. When you say ‘Full service history’ - how many services has it actually had, and at what mileages. How detailed have these services been? You can get a fair idea from the number of recorded times the brake fluid has been changed - for example - and the pollen filter? Can we take it you have obtained a service printout from an Audi dealer? Have you checked the on-line MOT history and analysed failures and how advisories have been attended to? Have you checked the DVLA vehicle check, which tells you when the last V5 was issued, which can be an indicator of how long the last owner has had it. Short term ownership can be bad news. 24 month warranty? That’s unusually long, and you could find you are ‘paying over the odds’ to have this included in the price. Have you studied the warranty, particularly the exclusions/wear clauses, since these can sometimes render the warranty to be relatively worthless? Are you buying this car relatively locally? If not, owarranties and resolving issues can again become impractical. All of this probably sounds negative, but all are fairly simple bits of ‘research’ which may save you a lot of money in the long run. Secondhand car prices are at an all time high, so you will be spending more to buy this car than you probably expected. Irrespective of warranties, it may be well worth investing in a professional inspection of the car before purchase, unless you are confident in your own abilities and knowledge. Hope some of this helps. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Steve, For what difference it makes, can we disagree on the terminology? The track rod end fits onto the end of (guess what?) the track rod! It wouldn’t surprise me that Arron has a broken spring - but there again, it’s all guesswork without thoroughly inspecting the car. It’s all good stuff! Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks James, Glad I saved suggesting all that you have done! Detail is King. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello James, Thanks for joining the forum and posting your ‘want’. Before suggesting ‘try here, try there’, could you let us know the extent of your own searches so far. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello again Arron, The rod you refer to is a track rod and not a ‘tie’ rod, and as mentioned before, rotational movement is necessary at that point. If this suspected source of the noise was indeed correct, then you would be expecting to feel this at the steering wheel ( and you don’t mention you do) and the extent of noise should be influenced by turning the wheel slightly as the noise occurs ( again you don’t mention it does). This car is trying to tel you something. When have you got it booked in for? Kind regards, Gareth.

It’s a funny old world Beany, so when someone like yourself takes the time and interest to come back to the forum and let us know the outcome, then it really is appreciated. Unfortunately your type of feedback is very rare. Enjoy the car and good luck with it. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Matt, What was done at 39k in 2020? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Shaun, Apologies if I’ve got it wrong, but I have the distinct feeling that you want to justify not (in caps) changing the belt assembly, and if that is the case, then don’t worry about it, and just carry on regardless of the potential outcome. ‘Ultimately, I’ll get it changed…’ Ultimately to me equates to some time in the future to suit. Let’s hope that time comes before the consequence of not changing it, as a matter of overdue urgency. You have fair amount of collateral left in this vehicle, please don’t run the risk of rendering it borderline uneconomic to repair - but there again, it’s your car to do, or not do with, as you see fit. Kind regards, Gareth.

Great result Beany. Many thanks for letting us know.

Clutch possibly yes. Cambelt, tensioner and water pump - probably a lot cheaper. Best to get estimates from your trusted local garage before committing. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Shaun, Apologies, but I’m missing the understanding of the ‘U.K. Premium’ bit. Appreciating that you have just spent out a large sum of money on something else on the car, but I think the recommendations for cambelt changes as been clearly explained in all the earlier posts - and I think you are accepting that logic. If you bought the car when it was 4 year old, then it wouldn’t have needed a cambelt up to that time, but it would have been ‘your responsibility’ to change it a year after you bought it. Now, after 2 years over that limit, you are still not getting it attended to, and of course, that is your choice - but moreover, it is at your ( in caps) risk. It might be worth getting an estimate for a replacement engine, so you can calculate the value of the risk you are taking here Shaun. Armed with this you might get your appetite back! Money is money, and risking not spending is just that. It’s rather akin to saying you are going to take a risk and not insuring your house, because you have just insured your car. Might be worth thinking about not using the car until the necessary funds are available?? Apologies, Shaun, but I think there are many folks you can talk to who will know of someone who has wrecked a good engine. Any one of those affected would long for an opportunity to turn the clock back. Anyway, enough said…… Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Dave, Thanks for being in touch. What year are these cars? If they are indeed 2011 models as per your profile, then they should have had at least two cambelt changes within their service history, and be half way through the second - every 5 years. In effect, it’s difficult to consider it has full service history if the belt assembly ( and water pump) hasn’t been changed since 57k and it’s now on 130k. To me, this would not be a deal breaker so long as you get it done straight away, and I guess factor in the cost within the purchase price. Clutches and that sort of mileage would however be a worry, since the weak spot will be the in-bell housing release bearing assembly since if the clutch hasn’t been renewed in the recent past ( with quality parts) then this can be an anticipated costly . issue which could realistically crop up. Last point I would suggest you research, is the excessive oil consumption of engines of this era - Stevey Y on here is the man with the knowledge on these ‘low friction’ engines , but suffice it to say, it can have been serviced up to the hilt, but can still have an alcoholic thirst for engine oil. Hope some of this helps. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Buying from a VAT registered seller so you have some comeback?

Should be able to get the correct replacement locking wheel nut remover at your nearest dealer by giving them the VIN.

Hello Arron, Thanks for being in touch. Anti roll bar links are usually the first and easy target to suspect, but you have eliminated those - subject to them still being serviceable. The possibility of springs breaking within the spring cup should also not be ignored. Have you checked all wishbone bushes for splitting, wear and movement? The list could go on, but I’m sure you will appreciate that it will be virtually impossible for anyone to source this noise without actually inspecting the car. Personally, I would discount any connection with the steering rack and the rotational movement you show, until I had eliminated all other possibilities. Only trusting one mechanic is not good news, and if you stick with that view, you are quite likely to find yourself in dire straights at some point, where you will have an immobile car because he has such a backlog. Having faith in one mechanic is good, have total dependence on him is bad news. Have you already booked it in with him, for some point in the future? Kind regards, Gareth.