Magnet

Hello Steve, I think you have just found the downside of increasing wheel diameters - as many do to make it look smarter. Decreasing from 21 inch to 18in is a big jump, and will result in a very much increased tyre profile. I used to get my calculator out and work it out for folks on here, but fight shy of doing that now. There are websites which do the maths for you - worth searching these out. Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks Ian, A complete stab at it, but any chance this has something to do with having to computer reset? Kind regards, Gareth.

Front or backs replaced Ian? Kind regards, Gareth.

Many thanks indeed Steve. I’m sure your new addition will be the centre of attraction with everybody. Should be a well deserved great Christmas for you all. Best wishes, Gareth & Family.

Thanks Gideon, What does the screen shot tell you in terms of when services were carried out? The degree of service history will of course be very important. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. No service books for a 2016 Steve - all recorded on the computer system?

Wishing all forum members and their families a very enjoyable Christmas, and I hope 2024 will be kind to you all. Kind regards, Gareth.

But don’t forget, the tyre profile would have to be decreased if the wheel dia. is increased. Doing this, will compromise the ride quality. Are you considering this because 18 inch wheels will look better? If so, it’s worth considering that you can’t see the wheels when you are driving, but you can feel the compromised ride quality! There are websites which inform you what profiles will be needed when you change wheel diameters. Kind regards, Gareth.

I feel that although the forum has tried to be constructive here, no one can advise whether this car would be fine or not - it’s a totally unreasonable expectation. Shame Samanuel wasn’t able to share with us how the ‘blind’ price he needs to pay compares with the retail average, so that he, and forum members can better understand the risk being taken here. Kind regards, Gareth.

That’s good - at least that check has eliminated that as a possible cause.

Suspension leg?? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gideon, Did you manage to check the service history? Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Awais, Do you have access to a lift or hoist, or are you conducting these inspections on your back? To me, it’s time to get it checked out where it can be inspected on a lift. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Apologies but the noise is barely audible, but my hearing is pretty poor.

Hello Chris, Thanks for joining. I think if you do a search for recent posts, you will see that VAG have now removed the time limit ……x miles, or x years - whichever come first.., and now only put a mileage limit of c130 miles ( I think but check). If your belt was changed 4 years and 46 K miles ago, then they they are now saying you can run it (safely???) for around another 8 years - or as long as it takes to reach their current mileage limit. Good news or bad?. Some are content to follow that ‘mileage limit only’, others - me included feel that will be taking a chance. I would suggest you read the opinions before deciding what best suits you. Under the old tried and tested system, your belt would need changing 5 years ( next year) from when it was last changed. Perhaps you could come back to us with your decision Chris. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. What mileage has this car covered to date, and what would be your anticipated annual mileage?

Many thanks for joining Awais, Having eliminated the obvious, have you checked whether one of the springs have broken - near to the spring seats? Kind regards, Gareth.

Welcome David, Have you, or someone else removed the wiper arms and checked whether the spindles are rotating or not. If not, then someone has to remove the panel which covers the linkage. Perhaps you would let us know how you get on. Kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Dom. Sounds like you’ve got a great system, and with very good reason. Re. the fake filter - was it supposed to be a reputable brand, and from a recognised and establish seller? Best not name though. Good luck and kind regards, Gareth.

Thanks Dom, Quantum oil - Superb- 438K. That would be enough of an endorsement without my ‘many years of using it’ suggestion. That really is incredible. Although I haven’t had any volume experience of using Opie oils, I understand they are reliable, and OK it generally costs you extra, but on a DIY oil change basis, does that really matter so much? EBay and ‘so many counterfeit parts on there’. Um, I’ve personally not encountered any issues with my purchases from sellers who I’ve had experience of, and trust. It sounds that we might have a similar philosophy insofar as I buy reputable brands at competitive prices (mainly off EBay and Parts in Motion etc.) but I don’t buy at cheapest prices on EBay. C.E. Automotive currently have a competitive price on EBay with Quantum, and I’ve bought my oil with them for a number of years to good effect. Main dealer parts? Yes, great, but generally not good for the wallet! Worth trying Discount Audi Parts (again on EBay) at Cardiff - Part of the now Mon Motors set up - was Cardiff Audi. They often offer a bit of discount. Also dealt with Aberdeen Audi at one time, but not sure whether they are still discounting. Hope some of this helps Dom. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. Please note:- I don’t have any connection with any of the above mentioned businesses other than having bought from them in the past, and will probably buy from them in the future.

Suspect then?

Hello again Gideon, This is the same vehicle that you are intending buying?? Is it fair to ask why you are considering putting this 80k mileage engine under additional strain - do you really need the extra power? I take it you are at least going to renew the air filter before you undertake this, and ideally renew the engine oil and filter, unless it’s recently been done. I’m sure you will be aware that this will probably increase your insurance premium, but… Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Gideon, Well done for doing your homework, and there’s an off chance that someone on here may know of it. It appears the last owner has had it for almost four years, so that’s a positive. It was first registered in the Bristol area, so at least it’s remained in the West Country - we believe. Have you obtained a copy of the on line service history, by contacting a local Audi dealer? 4 new tyres sounds fine, but did you view it with the old tyres still fitted, so you have an idea of the evenness of tyre wear? Have you checked whether the dealer is fitting budget tyres or better tyres. If budget, have you considered making a contribution towards ensuring mid or premium range tyres are fitted instead? The on-line MOT history service appears to be offline at the moment - I guess you’ve checked that and now have a good idea whether advisories have been attended to annually. Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. I’ll delete the duplicate for you.

Many thanks Stefan, Can I ask why the alternator and starter were recently renewed? Battery efficiency doesn’t simply depend on (‘static’) voltage - as measured when fitted to a stationary car ( this is effectively meaningless, as said) but the efficiency needs to be tested under load conditions where both voltage and its ability to maintain a high cranking current is assessed. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sounds great Deborah. Coded to the car? Kind regards, Gareth. p.s. sorry about all the questions.

Thanks David, Is this engine running on a chain rather than a belt? Hope someone comes up with a recommendation for you. Kind regards, Gareth.

Sounds great Dom, and thanks for keeping us up to date. Incase it helps, I’ve used Quantum Longlife 3 oil for annual oil changes for many years with our humble A3 - to good effect. Apparently is/was VAG’s recommended brand - blended by Castrol? I buy it at best prices from reliable EBay sellers. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hello Stefan, Electrical issues can be confusing, so always worth eliminating the simple things first. Apologies if this is known, but testing the voltage with a simple voltmeter is meaningless, and the battery (% efficiency) needs to be tested under load conditions. It would be worth getting the alternator output checked at the same time. If a new battery is fitted, then it would need to be coded to the car. Perhaps you could let us know how you get on Stefan. Kind regards, Gareth.