cliffcoggin

PS. Public charge points are expensive to use, often being similar to the cost of petrol in terms of cost per mile. It is always better to charge at home, even more so if you have cheap overnight electricity.

Jerry. There was no picture in your post for me to comment on, however a new UK car would normally be supplied with a type 2 cable which has 7 pins and looks like this: https://evwired.com/blogs/blog/type-1-vs-type-2-ev-charging-cable-explained-complete-guide-for-uk-ev-drivers It is designed principally for home charging and plugs into a standard wall socket. Ignore any references to type 1, which is for the USA, and Chademo, which is for Japan. The public type 2 charge points you will meet are few and far between, and have been more or less abandoned. You often need to take your own cable. Instead you will find that most public outlets are CCS, which looks similar to type 2 with an additional two pins and looks like this: https://voldt.co.uk/collections/ccs2-plugs-and-cables CCS charge points are the de facto standard here because of their ability to charge rapidly. It should be easy to see if your car is fitted with a type 2 or a CCS socket. In summary, if your car has a type 2 socket you can charge it slowly at home but rarely anywhere else; if it has a CCS socket you can charge it slowly at home with the type 2 cable and rapidly anywhere else with CCS cable.

Look for VAG specialists to work on your car, there are plenty of them around. It would be worth searching Ebay, both nationally and internationally, for new parts.

Have you read the earlier responses?

Ben. What is the point of asking a question if you do not read and reply to the comments?

Thanks Gareth. I guess Mr. Watts forgot to take his happy pills today.

A compression test should help reveal a broken ring on the 2.6. Oily plugs on the 2.8 might be a broken oil ring; it might also be worn valve stem seals. Either way it's likely the heads will need to come off as a first step.

I would wait a day for other opinions before committing to any actions.

Stevey Y's response in your previous topic may be relevant. https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/30500-multiple-gasket-failure/#comment-126327

It's not normal for any engine to shed a lot of metal particles unless it is very worn, which I would not expect after 96000 miles, so it's probable that the engine has to be stripped to find what is disintegrating. That's going to cost thousands of pounds unfortunately, and may not be economical. Are there any symptoms that may help diagnosis such as smoke, high fuel consumption, loss of coolant, unusual noises, poor performance?

So the charging is controlled by a phone app? You did not mention that earlier. That makes things more complicated because it introduces another failure point. If it is the Audi application I suggest you take the matter up with Audi. I seem to recall reading of similar problems reported here, so it may pay you to search these forums.

Any comment on the above response Paul? I know you have seen it.

Darren. Any comment on Spartacus 68's response? I know you have seen it, and you agreed with the forum etiquette requirements in https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/8939-forum-etiquette-new-members-please-read-before-posting/page/6/#comment-131762

Well that eliminates any interference by your electricity supplier, which sometimes happens if using a smart tariff. Does any charge at all go into the battery, or does it remain at the same SOC (state of charge)?

What equipment are you using to charge it with? A 3 pin plug-in charger point, or a permanently installed wall box?

Thanks for that Steve. O'Riley certainly provides a good explanation of the problem, and what appears to be a plausible solution. Have you any experience of his software solution?

Congratulations.

Tony, see this topic: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/24906-alternator-failure-related-to-mild-hybrid-system

Tony, is yours a mild hybrid with 48 volt battery? If it is then the problem is well known.

I echo the comments about annual servicing being better for the car than extended intervals, and independent garages being better than main dealers.

If there was an easy way to open a locked car thieves would have a field day, so your only option is brute force through one of the windows. Ensure you can buy new glass before using that universal key known as a hammer.

How old is the battery Nick?

Do the doors and boot lid latch reliably when the roof is off?

CV joints are the most likely suspects. If you bought the car within the last 30 days take it back to the dealer for free rectification.

An eight year old battery is well overdue for renewal. In your place I would renew it without a moment's hesitation. As Richard said, it will need to be coded to the car.