cliffcoggin

Springs simply do not break when motionless, so it must be air suspension which is known to have problems with leaking bags, compressor failure and height sensor faults. If the car is undriveable it will have to picked up and taken away for repair.

Get it tested promptly in case it is related to this topic: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/24906-alternator-failure-related-to-mild-hybrid-system/

So what did they tell you? As I mentioned before, don't make a decision on the cars future until you have a firm diagnosis of the fault. We can only go so far in doing that in a forum, it really needs somebody with access to the car in order to touch and feel and smell and test. If it comes to the crunch and the engine is "beyond economic repair", to use insurers phrasing, would you consider Magnet's suggestion of throwing lots of cheap oil at it as a way of keeping it running? You'd have to tolerate an oily driveway and ignore the environmental consequences, and of course even the cheapest oil is not really cheap.

Tony. We have not established whether you have contact breakers (points) running against a four or six lobed cam in the distributor, or one of the early electronic systems that had some sort of sensor to generate the LT impulses. Naturally diagnosis of the fault depends on which system you have. As for testing the coil, I only did it the old fashioned way by holding the HT lead in my hand and cranking the engine. It was immediately obvious if the coil was making the expected 14000 volts!

The LT current flows from the contact breakers to the coil where it is transformed to HT. That HT current goes from the coil to the centre of the rotor arm in the distributor and thence to the spark plugs.

No, it can knock in the straight ahead position, though it is always worse when turning.

Well done.

So do you trust Mr. Google or do you trust your mechanic? In your position I would go elswhere.

2 litres of oil in 1100 miles is truly extraordinary, and indicates significant wear of the pistons and/or bores. This is confirmed by your new revelation of excessive crankcase pressure, which is likely the cause of the oil loss. A crankcase gasket will not solve this problem. It's just possible that a new crankcase pressure control valve will help, but it's more likely that the engine has reached the end of its life. That will cost many thousands of pounds to sort out so it makes sense to get a firm diagnosis before making a decision on what to do. I suggest you find an independent VAG specialist rather than travelling to an Audi dealer. Here are two I found on an internet search. There are bound to be others. https://www.autohausedinburgh.co.uk/ https://www.hrmotors.co.uk/

Is it old fashioned enough to have points? If so, check the gap and ensure the contact faces are unburnt. The condensers in such systems were also prone to failure.

I admire both your dedication and the size of your wallet Federico.

You went from Yorkshire to Wiltshire for the battery?

I don't understand why you would need new pistons unless yours in one of a small number of cars fitted with badly designed piston rings for a couple of years. That was well known problem which Audi reluctantly resolved by fitting new pistons under guarantee for many owners. (I doubt this a problem of simple wear at 98000 miles.) If yours is one of the affected cars then it will be consuming oil at an extraordinary rate, so please tell us what your oil consumption is.

Me too. I could cope in the days of points in a distributor, but electronics are beyond me.

Tim. If you look through the forum history you will see that changing from tungsten to LED is far from straightforward, and sometimes impossible. If your lights are dim it would be simpler to just renew the bolbs. Incandescant lights do become dim over time.

John. You have only done one CV joint so I would suspect the other side also needs to be changed. They tend to wear out at the same rate.

Nevertheless if it is the original battery it is long overdue to be changed irrespective of any sensor fault.

No, the car is faulty and is likely to be an expensive repair. Take it back to the dealer before the 30 day limit expires.

If none of the inputs produce a sound I have to suspect the amplifier is faulty or the speakers are not connected. Of course I am assuming the unit actually has power coming into it. Does the radio show any lights or a display?

Try the different gearbox modes and let us know how they compare.

Dan. How about a longer description of the problem, and what you have tried to do about it. The extra words don't cost anything.

Unfortunately there is no simple solution to changing from one radio brand to another. Functions are different, plugs/sockets are different, wire colours are different, so there is always some wire cutting to do. To make matters worse, some Ebay sellers are not very helpful in supplying the right conversion wiring.

Sport or Drive (normal) mode. I assumed you have that option on your gearbox, but perhaps you don't.

Another member's recent experience with a Japanese import suggests you get all the paperwork such as registration document V5 and Certificate of Conformity completely sorted out by the dealer, to avoid endless confrontations with our bureaucracy yourself.

2000 rpm seems high for changing up, but that depends on how heavy your right foot is, and whether you use S or D mode. It would be as well to have it independently tested before the 30 day option to return it to the dealer expires.