cliffcoggin

Thank you Wayne. It's a shame the car has reached the end of its economic life, but it happens to all cars eventually. Mine was a year younger than yours but it got to the point that an expensive gearbox repair, plus the rising cost of fuel, made it unviable to keep it running.

I'd say it is more likely related to power steering than AC.

Tom. Do please let us know the outcome, because if your problem is solved by a software update like Joe and Alan it would indicate a systemic problem that other owners need to know about.

Failure of flap motors/linkages crops up regularly in these forums, so I'd agree that's the place to look first.

The car is brand new and still under guarantee. Take it back to the dealer you bought it from for a free repair.

Over the 30 day limit you will need to take legal advice about any recourse, but I am not optimistic about your chances. It's irrelevant to the matter, but if the gearbox has 8 gears it cannot be a CVT (continuously variable transmission). It is a standard automatic DSG (double shift gearbox).

90 psi is still abysmally low, indicating gas loss at valves or rings.

I believe those symptoms are severe enough to justify rejecting the car and asking for a refund.

Surely the gearbox is DSG not CVT? The lack of service records for 20000 miles means either a service was missed or it was done at a non Audi garage. Add that to the possibility of an expensive gearbox fault and I would be inclined to reject the car before the 30 day limit is up.

So much for the promises of updates that might help others in the same position as Wayne.

Personally I would change them. The old oil will give you a chance to detect metal particles, while if it is clean you will have only lost the cost of the oil. Nobody ever had a breakdown as a result of changing oil too often.

Loss of stop/start and radio presets are typical of a dying battery. Get it tested on deep discharge equipment, and if a new battery is needed get it coded to the car.

Fair enough Chris. I needed to make sure. I can't help regarding an upgraded clutch, but if professionals (if that is what Unicorn are,) recommend a standard unit I would go with that. If the original standard clutch has lasted 16 years it has done well, so a similar replacement should last the realistic lifetime of the car.

A pity you did not mention that earlier to save wasting our time. Error codes always have to be interpreted in the light of experience, rather than taken literally. So it was not flippancy to ask for them as you wrongly assumed, rather it was an attempt to get some of the basic information which you initially failed to provide. In view of your attitude I shall not add any more to this discussion, even though I have a strong suspicion about the cause of the problem. Good luck.

Well you would say that wouldn't you. You may not even be aware of possible malware, so sorry again, but I am not going to watch it. I suggest a decent photograph uploaded to the forum with your reply. The forum software will eliminate most nasties or prevent uploading.

Are you really looking for an upgrade, which implies a performance clutch able to handle upgraded engine power, or do you mean a standard clutch at lower than LUK prices? Sorry to ask but some folk here think upgraded equals renewed.

Sorry Nelly, I won't download files from untrusted sources so I have not watched your video. However if you can see where the leak originates, that is the part that needs to be replaced. Have you taken it to a garage yet, or got opinions from anybody else?

It's true I can not help you Josh if you are not prepared to either do any testing or provide suitable information to aid a possible diagnosis. If all you want is speculation and guesses then you don't need my help. After all you claim to be "fairly car literate and I'm usually able diagnose and know the problem..." I looked up Power Engines and saw the company supply new and re-conditioned engines, so can you be sure the engine you received was genuinely new? The company lists this for your car: https://powerengines.com/collections/all?filter.p.m.custom.make=Audi&filter.p.m.custom.model=Q5&filter.p.m.custom.year_multi_selects=2016 The price of $3199 is impossibly low for a brand new engine, even before it is shipped from Germany, so what do you conclude from that?

Good luck with your project. It's been decades since I had any engines re-bored & re-shelled, and would not know where to get such work done now.

OK, then do so, and tell us the results of such things as compression tests, injector tests, CO emission, and oil consumption. It would also help to know of modifications that have been made and ECU mapping. The only actions you have mentioned are three fuel pump changes without telling us the reason. Was the fuel pressure tested before changing the pump?

Connect it to diagnostic code reader.

Gregg. Any engine of that era is likely to have significant wear, so you would be better off trying to get yours re-conditioned.

That's not a symptom; that's supposition. Is it the same temperature from every vent, or just one? What happens when the temperature setting is raised to hot.

The cooling system of AC does not block up. It commonly loses its gas through leaks, or the compressor can fail, or the belt can snap. Perhaps it is an air duct that has been blocked by a failed flap motor. Please give some symptoms of the problem.

I have never heard of them. Would you provide a link to the equipment please?