cliffcoggin

If new pipes are not available off the shelf I daresay there are people who can make them. An brief internet search for "car fuel pipe fabricators" showed a few.

If the distributor is seized you had better replace the whole thing. And if the drive gear at the bottom is broken you may also have to remove the sump to retrieve the broken metal.

That's very wise. You'll have a lesser chance of being shafted than at a main dealer.

If you say so, but without a decent picture I can not comment.

In the absense of any information regarding a diagnosis I suggest consulting a mechanic who can test the electronics. To simply throw new parts at the car in the hope it will solve the problem could cost you than the price of a new car.

I'm not sure I understand. Are you saying a car transporter has damaged your car? If so your should pursue the company involved.

Not without photo that is in focus and a description.

It may be worth your while to consult a solicitor. Some will give a short initial opinion by telephone at no charge, particularly if you have been a previous customer for something like writing a will as mine was, though if you engage him to take on your case the costs will rocket to £200 or more per hour.

I was about to suggest packing the splined hole with grease to prevent rust, but on reflection even a high temperature grease might melt and contaminate the pads.

What are door blades?

Well we all know dodgy batteries can lead to strange electronic faults, but handbrake failure is a new one on me.

If two sets of injectors have not got the car running, I doubt that injectors were the problem. Why not solve the real problem and have a working car?

Sorry Nikolas. I won't open links from untrusted sources.

The chances of the current owner of that plate reading this forum are almost zero. Have you asked the DVLA if it will pass on your query to him?

No it's not normal. The chances are that the rattle is caused by the exhaust is hitting the underside of the car, which in turn could mean that the engine mounting rubbers are soft or broken. Grab the exhaust pipe when it is cold and shake it hard to see if you can reproduce the noise. To test the engine mounts you need to lever against them with a crowbar, or get an assistant to let the clutch bite gently while you watch the engine. It should go without saying that both handbrake and footbrake should be firmly applied during the test.

Are you asking for advice or merely having a rant? If it's the former we need more details, if it's the latter I'll not respond further.

Fiona. Before you pay out for another subframe, are you sure the rest of the car is sound? I appreciate that the salty air in your location probably contributed to the subframe's corrosion, but it seems unlikely only that one part has suffered while the rest is in good condition.

Steve means you need to get it tested. Something has developed a fault that is probably unrelated to your "messing".

As the bulbs are new it's likely there is a poor connection in one of the bulb holders or a plug or the earthing of the lamp unit. It's common if water has entered the units, so ensure all moisture has been dried out and any corrosion of the terminals is cleaned off.

The forum owner/president/leader/admistrator has been on holiday for a few weeks. I daresay he will resolve the matter soon.

Me too Gareth, however I see little prospect of behavioural change from the "entitled" generation. My solution is to ignore this forum for at least one day every week.

Tesla use their own unique plugs/sockets that fit no other brand, however a few of their sites are being adapted to CCS connections.

Michael. To save us having to ask lots of preliminary questions it would help if completed your profile with Audi model, version, engine, year, and your approximate location. Your name suggests you are in the USA where there are differences in the model ranges.

Yes.

And the asking price is?