cliffcoggin

Allesandro. Fracture of the wiring in the rubber bellows between door and frame is a common problem. I suggest you forget about sensors until you have proved the wiring is intact.

It's not smoke, it's steam. Every car since the dawn of motoring over a century ago has made steam, because water is a byproduct of hydrocarbon combustion.

That does not answer the question, so let me repeat it. How much oil (in litres) was added, and how many miles or km had been done since the previous top up? Without accurate information from you, nobody in the forum can help advise you.

There is no white smoke in the video, only a little condensing steam which is prefectly normal in cool weather. If it is no worse on the road under load you have nothing to worry about. The oil level is a different matter. How much oil are you adding and at what distance since the previous top up?

I don't know if a car of that age has an OBD port. If it does, get it scanned on a decent code reader. At the same time it would be worth getting the battery professionally tested. A dying battery can cause false warnings and interfere with the ignition system.

The stink of burning rubber usually means a belt is slipping which needs either to be tightened or replaced depending on its condition.

You won't get bubbles from a vacuum leak. The air is being sucked into, not out of, the break. Don't know how you would easily find such a leak.

Have you done the diagnostic check Steve Q recommended 16 months ago?

Could this be related to your previous question from two years ago, and which you did not respond to the suggestion made at that time? https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/27669-key-fob-issue-now-no-light-on-dash-engine-turns-over/#comment-109201

May I jump in out of curiosity because I am puzzled SImon? Why the concern over a lack of MOT, lack of cat, and modified suspension if it is to be a track car? I assume none of those things are relevant for off road use, and you would in any case modify or alter the car to meet whatever regulations are in force for the class of racing you intend.

As Gareth mentioned, we do not have access to the vehicle, so we can only give you likely diagnoses based on experience. If you choose to believe other "points of view" you can find opinions to suit your preferences. You mentioned some codes but did not expand on it. Was it a decent code reader or a Chinese cheapy?

My impression, unsupported by any real knowledge, is that few cars are sold via these forums. You would be better off advertising in Autotrader and the like.

I like your three times rule Gareth. I wish I had known that when I was still active with spanners.

Maria. I have merged your three identical topics into one. A little restraint would be appreciated. Please name the price you are asking.

I know of none unfortunately.

A worthy project Michael, and I hope we can help. I suggest you also find classic car clubs which may lead you to sources of parts and specialised restorers and reconditioners.

Ah, a fleet car. There's the answer. You were sold a lemon unfortunately, and I imagine any guarantee has long since expired. Would the finance company take any responsibility do you think?

I meant knocking sounds not collisions. I also asked about oil leaks or excessive consumption. Given your careful driving style I guess the engine was thrashed by the previous owner, because with good maintenance and gentle driving the engine should easily last 150000 miles.

Clutch wear does not happen suddenly so it's most likely air in the hydraulic system. Top up the fluid if it is low and it might restore enough action to get you home. If extra fluid makes no difference it would risk gearbox damage to drive it.

Try car breakers which are often online nowadays.

I don't see that could be possible without ripping off the wheels and the cross member that is below the engine. What about knocks and leaks before the pothole incident?

Abigail. Crankshafts don't just "go", whatever that means, instantaneously. They wear slowly and give plenty of warning knocking sounds as they do. The same applies to the bearings the shaft runs in. The oil leak could be from the engine or the gearbox. Either way they will have to be removed for a very expensive repair. The oil leak is probably why the pressure has dropped, though it could also be an indication of bearing wear. Dual mass flywheels do indeed disintegrate and make a hell of a racket. That would also need engine removal to fix. A new starter and alternator is odd, unless the car is a mild hybrid which have a poor reputation, but I don't see this being related to the oil leak or damage to the crankshaft or the pothole crash. Taken together, the symptoms are of an old poorly maintained engine, yet it is only seven years old. How many miles has it done? Are you a conservative or an enthusiastic driver? Were there any knocking sounds before the breakdown? Were there any oils leaks before the breakdown? I think you need to have the engine removed and stripped for a proper inspection. Be prepared for some bad news.

Any comment or reply Shahadur?

Thanks for letting us know. Evidently you had two distinct faults: one being the Ad-blue sensor, the other being the dying battery. I could go on about batteries, but I'd sound like an audio on repeat which must be boring for regular readers here.

Glad to read it Joseph. A shame it has taken three months to resolve, but it demonstrates something I have written of repeatedly, which is how difficult it is to convince people that their batteries are defective and that the replacements need to be coded in cars of the last two decades.