cliffcoggin

There are plenty online: https://duckduckgo.com/?q=a3+owners+manual&ia=web

Still under guarantee. Thanks for letting us know.

Let me repeat what I wrote five days ago. "Be wary of any computer diagnosis if there is the slightest chance of a dodgy battery. A3s are known to suffer a variety of seemingly unrelated electronic faults and their associated "diagnoses" if the battery is at all below par."

"they charge like wounded bulls" That's a phrase I must remember. Good luck. Do let us know the outcome.

Good luck and do let us know the final result.

Thanks for the update Ricky. Here's hoping no significant damage has been done while the car was without lubrication.

No. The battery needs to be coded to the car. I don't really know what is involved to do that, but I know it needs to be done.

You could avoid time wasters by publishing your prices openly. People who advertise without prices are, for some of us, also time wasters.

The remap could undoubtedly have been the cause of the problem if it was not matched exactly to the engine, which of course the remappers are not going to admit. The only way to prove the point is to revert to standard settings. Equally it could be any of the other factors mentioned. They should all be investigated. That is going to be expensive if done by Audi; you would do better to find an independant VAG specialist. Whatever the cause, running rich will block the DPF.

David. It depends which seals you mean. If the leak was external to the outside of the engine then it can not have contributed to excess soot in the DPF. On the other hand if the leak was internal then it may have caused the engine to run rich and choke the DPF. You have since rectified the injector problem so a regeneration should have cleared the DPF.

If that is true then you are in for an expensive repair bill to get the car into good condition. I hope you have deep pockets.

Be wary of any computer diagnosis if there is the slightest chance of a dodgy battery. A3s are known to suffer a variety of seemingly unrelated electronic faults and their associated "diagnoses" if the battery is at all below par.

John. I have just remembered the starting problem you mentioned initially. It would be worth getting that properly diagnosed before investing a lot of money in the gearbox in case that also leads to a hefty bill.

That's doubtfull, but it wouldn't hurt to try if you can afford the possible waste if it does not work. The fluid is expensive, though vastly cheaper than the alternative of a full gearbox overhaul.

Grant. I am still concerned that the warning comes on at high revs not low revs, however given your work on the oil pump, and the lack of noise from the engine, it's looking increasingly likely that the pressure switch is defective, but like you I would not want to assume that all is well. Add to that the suspicion that the switch was not in fact changed despite the old invoice I would certainly want a new one fitted before being confident in the engine. If you can not change it yourself your only options are to trailor it or drive it to a mechanic who can. I don't know your local road conditions but if the journey can be done slowly and avoiding any hills I would be tempted to drive it. That's a risk only you can decide on.

One of the clutches has worn out, which means the other is likely to be little better, therefore the whole gearbox needs an overhaul. That's going to hurt the wallet. Any chance of returning the car for a refund from the seller?

The question comes down to whether the low pressure warning is accurate or not. The only ways I can think to test it are to change the oil pressure switch for a new genuine Audi part that we can be confident is believable, or to find some way of attaching a pressure guage. The latter was something I used to do many years ago but I doubt there is a convenient attachment point to engines nowadays.

That's unfortunate, but having read the other recent thread on this problem you will know there is no realistic solution apart from a new engine.

So would we, but like so many who visit the forum for advice he could not be bothered to let us know the outcome. Too idle or too ill-mannered to make the effort I suppose.

Yes indeed. https://msautoservices.com/ is the place I took my A3 to. The owner, Michael Summers, is the person who alerted me to the problems a substandard battery can cause for the ECM and other delicate electronics, while allowing electro-mechanical equipment such as the starter and the wipers to function normally. In my particular case I would sporadically lose air conditioning and cruise control, and the engine would go into limp mode. A new battery fixed the problem.

A simple voltage reading will not tell you if the battery is fully functional. It needs to be tested on a high discharge test rig.

Please let us know the outcome.

I never knew such refurbishment was possible. At 180 Euros that has got be a bargain.

Ah, understood now. I expect the dimensions would be the same, but it's possible the cooling capacity (number of coils and fins) and the fan capacity (cubic feet per minute) may be lower because of the lower engine power of the 140 HP. I suggest waiting for a more definite answer before buying.

Fair enough Tom. What is this common fault that I am not aware of?