cliffcoggin

What of it? Whether it has one, two, or twenty fans they all depend on the fan module.

Please let us know the outcome.

Any progress on this Allen?

So it's a mild hybrid. See this topic which seems similar to yours, though has not shown a resolution yet. https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/29907-mysterious-lightshow-and-scary-consequences/#comment-129146 See also this topic which may or may not be related to yours: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/24906-alternator-failure-related-to-mild-hybrid-system

I assume there is a tolerance or limit of +/- x psi before the warning light is triggered. I suppose you could establish that limit by progressively letting the pressure down. Consider this, many years ago it was normal to have a gauge on the dashboard for engine oil pressure, but it was eventually realised that few people could interpret the readings, so the gauge was replaced by a warning light. The same was true of dynamo voltage. Modern TPMS systems are directly analogous to those situations.

David. Is yours a hybrid power train?

I can't answer your question, but I do wonder why you want that data displayed somewhere. Surely all you need to know while driving is whether the pressures are wrong, i.e. have they changed since you set them?

Martin. It's likely the fan control module has failed and needs to be replaced. It is sometimes mounted on or near the radiator.

Damon. I have merged your two identical topics to keep all responses in one place.

I daresay Audi would do it for a considerable price. There are online suppliers of maps but be aware that many are sketchy traders. There was one company recommended on the forum some months ago, but I don't recall its name. A forum search should find it.

I believe visual inspection is the best test. While a completely broken wire can be found with a continuity test, the damage can be as slight as cracked insulation that only shorts out as the wire chafes against metal during door opening.

Being a lazy driver I like the deceleration from electric regeneration in my non Audi car, but it takes a little getting used to not applying the brakes as often as I would in a liquid fuelled car. That highlights a minor problem in many EVs: the brakes have a greater tendency to suffer from rust because they don't get the usage that would otherwise keep them free in petrol or diesel cars. They never seize of course, but it can lead to some inconsistency in braking effort unless exercised often.

The driver's door lock is the master that controls the other doors.

Including the driver's door?

Richard. I see you visited the forum three hours ago. Have you a reply to the question I posted on Sunday?

Victor. I recall a similar problem arose on one of these forums a few weeks ago, so it would be worth searching recent history.

A wet shock absorber will very obvious. The coating of dirt will absorb any oil and change its colour compared to a dry damper.

If the only software that can access the car is Odis, how much reliance can you place on fault codes derived from other equipment? It grieves me to say it, but I see no alternative to an Audi dealer. Stevey Y, a knowledgeable taxi driver himself, may be along later to comment further.

Anthony. The usual cause of this problem is damaged wiring in the corrugated rubber tube between door and frame. The insulation cracks as a result of the repeated flexing, leading to shorts and/or fracture. It would be worth peeling the rubber back to reveal what lies within as a first step.

Me too. Car repair was straightforward when all controls were mechanical or simple electrical, but we did not have to contend with the complex electronics that control modern cars. You can't hear or feel or see when an integrated circuit fails. All you can detect is a misfiring injector, but who is to say if it is a faulty injector, or a faulty ECU, or a faulty mass flow sensor, or a dying battery? All these and more can cause your problem, hence the need for electronic diagnosis. The world has moved on, for better or worse. We either move with it or retreat into a reverie about the good old days.

Not blooming likely. My days of crawling under cars and getting my hands filthy ended years ago. I prefer the refinement and lack of maintenance of electric nowadays. Thanks all the same.

Done. I am also locking the topic to prevent it escalating.

Bob. If the engine cranks but does not start I fear your chances of selling it for more than its scrap value are slim.

It would be extraordinarily expensive to replace injectors etc. at random without firm evidence of faults. Despite the possible cost it would be worth paying for a diagnosis on a decent code reader such as VCDS before spending on new parts.

I don't think there are any dedicated regional sections of the forums. I guess the best way is to put a call out in the Club Lounge section offering to arrange a meeting.