cliffcoggin

From what I have read on the forums if one injector needs to be changed it is well worth changing all of them, but I am not entirely convinced injectors are the real problem. It needs to be scanned on a proper code reader capable of diagnosing your particular car, not just what the college happens to have.

Possibly, but it may be better to have the car scanned to find any underlying or systemic faults.

What he means is that "computer says no" so problem can not exist.

If the steering wheel shaking is not caused by you I'd say that the steering pump servo is at fault.

Thanks for the information.

Congratulations and thanks for letting us know. It would be worth checking the other doors and boot lid.

That does not answer the question about coding. I have already explained that a defective battery can cause erratic unrelated faults and warnings.

And was the new battery coded to the car? If not I suggest you get it professionally tested because it may have been damaged and in turn be the cause of false warnings. See this: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/29630-constant-tone-when-engine-started-but-no-dash-warnings/#comment-124249

Abigail. Since we already know your first name there is little point in trying to change it. By the way, only the moderators of this forum can see your email address. Anybody else wanting to contact you must do so via the forum messaging system so disguising your identity is pointless.

When was the battery last renewed?

Get the battery professionally tested as a first step. A dying battery can can cause false warnings such as yours. Do not rely on a multimeter voltage reading. The meter does not impose enough load to give useful information.

Thanks for letting us know.

That's too much of a coincidence to dismiss. Some models, and I don't know if yours is one of them, have connections under the seats and/or carpets for such things as comfort control modules and airbags, so it would be worth looking there for moisture and corrosion of terminals. I also echo Gareth's comments on battery coding. Without coding the new battery may be damaged.

See this: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/29630-constant-tone-when-engine-started-but-no-dash-warnings/#comment-124249

Allesandro. Fracture of the wiring in the rubber bellows between door and frame is a common problem. I suggest you forget about sensors until you have proved the wiring is intact.

It's not smoke, it's steam. Every car since the dawn of motoring over a century ago has made steam, because water is a byproduct of hydrocarbon combustion.

That does not answer the question, so let me repeat it. How much oil (in litres) was added, and how many miles or km had been done since the previous top up? Without accurate information from you, nobody in the forum can help advise you.

There is no white smoke in the video, only a little condensing steam which is prefectly normal in cool weather. If it is no worse on the road under load you have nothing to worry about. The oil level is a different matter. How much oil are you adding and at what distance since the previous top up?

I don't know if a car of that age has an OBD port. If it does, get it scanned on a decent code reader. At the same time it would be worth getting the battery professionally tested. A dying battery can cause false warnings and interfere with the ignition system.

The stink of burning rubber usually means a belt is slipping which needs either to be tightened or replaced depending on its condition.

You won't get bubbles from a vacuum leak. The air is being sucked into, not out of, the break. Don't know how you would easily find such a leak.

Have you done the diagnostic check Steve Q recommended 16 months ago?

Could this be related to your previous question from two years ago, and which you did not respond to the suggestion made at that time? https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/27669-key-fob-issue-now-no-light-on-dash-engine-turns-over/#comment-109201

May I jump in out of curiosity because I am puzzled SImon? Why the concern over a lack of MOT, lack of cat, and modified suspension if it is to be a track car? I assume none of those things are relevant for off road use, and you would in any case modify or alter the car to meet whatever regulations are in force for the class of racing you intend.

As Gareth mentioned, we do not have access to the vehicle, so we can only give you likely diagnoses based on experience. If you choose to believe other "points of view" you can find opinions to suit your preferences. You mentioned some codes but did not expand on it. Was it a decent code reader or a Chinese cheapy?