cliffcoggin

The mechatronic module is notoriously difficult to overhaul so is best left to a specialist. Try the oil and filter change as a first step.

There are the causes. Going forwards up a steep drive shifts the weight closer to the rear wheels. Add to that a heavy right foot and a wet surface, and you have the ideal conditions for wheel spin. Try reversing up the drive to see the difference.

Sahil. Any of the mechanics could be right, in that anywhere a rubber bush is fitted for compliance is a possible source of creaking noise. Unless one can show excessive movement by levering each joint with a crowbar it's going to be a lottery as to which joint is at fault.

P&R = Post and Run. Read the warning against you.

Have just noticed you mentioned 120 miles. That should be enough to get rid of the mould release.

How many miles has the car done? I ask because new tyres always have a trace of the slippery mould release agent on them, which takes a little while to scrub off.

Oil and filter change is worthwhile, but if that does not resolve the fault it's likely the mechatronic control mechanism needs an overhaul. That's a job for an experienced mechanic.

It's not only Audi that has this problem. From what I have read every car manufacturer is facing the same difficulty, yet are being forced by legislation into providing these functions despite them being unreliable.

I don't want to deter you Babzi, but your chances of selling a left hand drive car in Britain are very small. Je ne veux pas vous décourager Babzi, mais vos chances de vendre une voiture à conduite à gauche en Grande-Bretagne sont très faibles.

Steve. If there is suspicion of the crankshaft I agree with Gareth that it should be inspected as soon as practicable, because the state of this shaft and its bearings will have a huge influence on the cost of the repair, or even the feasability of repairing it at all. Regrinding of crankshafts was common years ago, along with fitting undersize main and big end bearing shells. I do not know if this sort of work is done commercially any more. Perhaps there are classic car restorers who do, but are undersize shells still available? If you can post high resolution pictures of the bearing shells and crankshaft journals we can get an initial idea of their condition and advise further.

Sorry Jonathon, that's no better for me. Your best bet is to take the car to a mechanic who can slide under the car.

Another P&R time waster.

It might be a battery fault, an alternator fault, or a charging circuit fault. A scan with a code reader should help identify the problem. Did you get the new battery coded to the car? It needs to be done.

No thanks. Turning up the volume would also raise the background noise to levels that would damage my speakers. As I wrote 10 months ago in this topic, you need to make a recording with less background noise and more defect noise, i.e. a higher signal to noise ratio.

All I hear is road noise plus a squeak at about ten seconds.

It sounds like a bunch of cowboys.

What sort of dealer are you visiting with a car that is less than 12 months old that can not fix your brakes, want £20 per litre of oil, and now can not show you where the temperature guage is?

Good idea to label each nondescript part like wires and connections which aren't obvious to the naked eye. It's surprising how quickly memory can fade. I suggest: [a] fit nuts etc. to their respective bolts/studs so they don't become mixed, [b] note the order of dismantling so you can reverse it for re-assembly, [c] note or mark the relative positions of parts such as camshaft & crankshaft that need to be phased correctly when re-fitted.

I have no experience of that problem, but a possibility is a bad earth connection on one unit or the other. Scanning with a code reader may be the simplest first step to point you in the right direction.

Thank you Kevin. There are fewer than a dozen regular contributors to the forum, so naturally the effort is spread thinly, however it is generally well considered and worth waiting for.

Kevin. To expect an answer to your question wthin 2.5 hours of joining the forum is unreasonable. Wait a few days for somebody with both the knowledge and the inclination to reply.

It has been done by at least one member of these forums. That's why I mentioned it.

I have moved the topic accordingly.

Larger rims will need lower profile tyres to maintain the same overall radii. Lower profiles will give a harsher less comfortable ride, which in turn is going to put more stress on the suspension.

Sorry I can not answer your question, but whatever you choose I recommend changing both springs with a matched pair. The height and rebound charateristics need to be the same both sides.