cliffcoggin

Jonathan. As an owner of the same model I don't understand why you want to uprate the car. I can assure you it can already be driven dangerously fast on "quiet, twisty B-roads". Why do you want to terrorise other motorists and create mayhem in narrow country lanes?

Would your desire for a noisy exhaust have anything to do with the smoking you asked about in https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/26569-smoke-and-smell/#comment-102214 You did not follow up the matter at the time.

We tend to favour independents over main dealers, but that's not to say all are better. Does your man specialise in VAG vehicles, or is he more a "all makes, all ages" generalist? Can you post photos of the failed pulleys or their remnants?

They are UK companies which install after market electronic systems to cars. I assume there are equivalent companies in Sweden.

In that case I am at a loss to explain the fault, unless there is an electrical fault with the temperature guage. Can you check the coolant temperature with an independent guage such as a hand held infra red instrument?

I suspect the main engine fan is running continuously, instead of only when needed.

Any update for us David? I see you are on line at this moment.

That means nothing to me, so I'll leave it to others who might understand to reply.

What are you hoping to achieve with an upgrade rather than a straight replacement with a standard component?

I don't open links from untrusted sources, so I have not seen the video. It was your mention of polish that misled me. Some punctuation would have made the matter clearer.

So the problem dust is dust on the inside, not crazing of the plastic as I first thought? Sorry, I was misled by the mention of polish. As a chemist for much of my life perhaps I look too readily for chemical problems.

I don't see any pipes in the picture.

I didn't know roof racks and rails were ever bonded to cars, which shows how out of date I am. What concerns me is that if the rack is glued to the paint, its securety is then entirely dependent on how well the paint adheres to the steel car roof. Can that be relied on, even on modern cars?

If the crazing is on the outer surface of the lens it's likely that a cleaning or polishing fluid is responsible. On the other hand if it's on the inside that is a different matter entirely. Note that many plastics are susceptible to this sort of damage by ultra violet light e.g. sunlight, but Rotherham is not known for its tropical climate.

That video confirms electric flaps, and tells you all you need to know.

Glad to hear you have solved the problem. Thanks for letting us know.

There are no mechanical connections on that unit so demisting must be electric. Are you sure you don't have embedded electric filaments in your windscreen, which of course do not control air flow?

Yet you mentioned a switch not a lever.

Electric flap motors are known to be prone to failure, but I am unsure if your car is of an age to have electric flaps or mechanical controls.

That's good news Jon. Equally important is the fact that it is published publicly on this forum for other owners to discover if they should suffer the same fault. I must say it worries me that Audi can get such a simple process as making a lens cover so wrong. Unlike electronics, injection moulding of lens covers is not new technology. It has been an established manufacturing process for over half a century, so the effects of over chilling a mould are well known.

Some models have the comfort control module under the carpet leaving it prone to physical damage and moisture. I don't know if yours is one of them, but it would be worth a look.

It's hard to believe one pulley disintegrated; for two to fail suggests an inherent fault in the mounting, but quite what the fault could be I have no idea.

It's a long way from Pease Pottage to Milan.

In that case I am at the limit of my knowledge and can not help.

Was the battery coded to the car? It needs to be.