cliffcoggin

Glad to read it Lachlan, though I don't understand how a faulty module can make the key hot. I guess that's why I am not an electrician.

I hope you don't regret it. Audi is not the brand it once was.

You have my sympathy.

Whenever the brakes are used the reservoir pressure is depleted so the pump recharges it. It should only take a couple of seconds and be inaudible while driving. If yours takes longer or is noisy it probably needs overhaul.

Well if you didn't laugh, you'd cry.

Evidently not. That's another one for P&R blacklist.

Perhaps they are dead.

Your description sounds very much like the electro-hydraulic servo I had on one of my cars, (I can't remember if it was the A3 or the Granada), which made a faint sort of buzzing sound. It lasted only for 15 seconds at most, and stopped as soon as the pressure reached its set point.

You can easily calculate it for yourself. Fill the tank at the start of a long journey, fill it again at the end, then divide the distance travelled by the number of gallons you put in.

Don. Bear in mind that none of us have laid eyes or hands on your engine, so our assessment is based solely on your description and one photograph. Nevertheless those of us who have offered an opinion can not imagine that siezure of the fuel pump can snap the cambelt unless it was either defective or wrongly fitted.

Thanks. I wish I could separate your topic from the original as it is unrelated and will not show up in a forum search. Unfortunately I don't know how, or even if, it is possible.

Glad to read it. Which particular diagnostic tool found the fault?

Do you have a report for us John?

Am I misunderstanding this, or are you telling us your mate is responsible for two damaged engines?

Martin. Let me repeat what Steve and I have already said: the engine is not seized. It may be worn, it may have a fuel fault, it may have a blocked DPF, it may be suffering any number of other faults which could be expensive to repair, but it is not seized. Let us move on to what is really wrong. Evidently your garage is not interested in fault finding and simply wants to replace the engine, so I suggest you take it elsewhere for a diagnosis.

If the garage owner is a professional can we assume he has insurance to cover this sort of predicament?

Thanks Damian. The only way I can correlate all that is to suppose the worn stem seals allowed excess oil into the crankcase via the rocker box, which was then drawn into the engine and blocked the catalytic converter. What bothers me is why you had no problems with the PCV valve, and no DPF warning light.

Spot on Steve. The car is not seized, just badly neglected.

Yes, the same temperature as the main hoses off the radiator. Try reverse flushing the heater matrix with mains pressure water. If that does not work the matrix will probably need to be renewed.

If the heater hoses are only getting warm, rather than hot, I'd say you still have a partial blockage in the matrix.

Do let us know the outcome.

Well what about gearbox oil levels? Or is that something else you have already done?

It's possible the instrument cluster is faulty. There are specialist companies who will test and repair it, though you will have to remove the cluster yourself and post it to them, then refit it afterwards.

Do you mean changing from tungsten to LED? Others have asked this question and the general concensus is that it is not possible.

There's a fair chance one of the electric flap motors in the air ducts is not working. It's a common failure.