cliffcoggin

Were the above comments of any use to you Allan? I know you have seen them.

Was the above comment of any use to you?

A wise decision, which two of us have previously recommended, and all the more worthwhile in view of your latest revelation of a damaged plug.

Console yourself with the thought that the fix was cheap.

Read the relevant section of this forum to find out the sort of problems that owners experience.

Anybody suffering from recalcitrant dealers in this matter should note Bartosz's comments and show them to their dealer. The more evidence of the fault being corrected under warranty, the more pressure can be applied to Audi and its dealers.

Ensure you code it to the car or it will fail again.

Thanks for your response Christine. It's rare for any gratitude to be shown so I am sure Steve will be pleased.

You have not mentioned the battery yet. Be aware that a defective battery can cause false error codes and warning lights. It can also cause the engine to enter limp mode, which sounds very much like your symptoms. As a first step I recommend you get the battery tested on a professional deep discharge machine that will detect internal faults and its state of health. Only once you have a good battery that is also coded to the car will any error codes become meaningful.

If the instrument cluster proves to be faulty there a few companies who can repair it for much less cost than Audi.

So the drinks are on you Kev?

Steven. A few questions first. [1] Are these faults recent? [2] Did they all begin at the same time? [3] How old is the battery? [4] Did you get the codes from a code reader of your own or from a professional? [5] Has the car been modified in any way?

If you are not prepared to supply relevent information I can not help further.

Those are not pressure readings. I am asking for pressure readings from each cylinder while being cold cranked by the starter motor with all plugs removed.

So the engine was in a poor state beforehand. In that case let's go back to basics and start with a compression test. Please let us know the results.

Then let me ask another question. Did the engine smoke before the modifications and re-mapping?

If the injectors are fine, then my money is on faulty re-mapping.

All I can think of as a temperature dependent cause is vapourisation of the fuel in the pipe from the tank. That implies that either the low pressure pump or the high pressure pump is faulty.

David. Unless I have missed it in the extensive reports, I have seen no mention of the battery being tested. By that I mean a deep discharge test on professional equipment, not a multimeter voltage reading. Has that been done?

I suggest you get it scanned by a professional code reader as a first step. Cheap readers are inadequate for the job. If that can not be done or it does not reveal anything significant it's likely that either the battery is dying or the instrument cluster is faulty. The battery should be tested professionally, under a heavy load. The cluster can be repaired if necessary by several companies at a fraction of the Audi cost.

Car manufacturers will clutch at any excuse, no matter how irrelevant, in an effort to avoid responsibility for guarantee work. If you can obtain written proof of servicing from whoever did it you will have a better chance with a possible claim.

There is a fair chance the wires are broken or shorting out in the rubber bellows between door and frame. It is a common problem with the driver's door because that gets the most use, but it can happen in other doors.

Unlikely, because Omar has not bothered to return to the forum for a year and a half.

Even if there is an easy fix, I think it would be worth taking it back to the dealer to avoid any possibility of invalidating the guarantee.

Do please let us know of progress.