cliffcoggin

"Death pipe" is the sort of term I expect from America where everything is exaggerated to make a minor problem seem major. For goodness sake, it's only a leaking coolant pipe. It happens on all cars.

No, the fob batteries will not cause that. It might be worth looking at the wires inside the rubber bellows between door and frame. Fracture of those wires is a common fault in other models.

I have never heard of this problem until reading of it here. If the failure is because the pipe is plastic maybe you should have one fabricated in rubber.

Stop/start failure and unrelated electronic problems are typical of a failing battery. A new battery alone will not solve them unless it is coded to the car when fitted. You need to confirm whether that was done before looking for other causes for the faults.

Did you get the new battery coded to the car? It needs to be for full functionality.

Possibly it's the air con. My wife's Yeti purrs like a cat when the AC is running.

Have you had the suspension checked for loose joints? It may be that the undercarriage is the source of the noise rather than the tyres?

Somewhere in one of the menus there should be an option to reset the standard or baseline setting. Don't ask me where as I don't know the A8.

Why not ask Audi?

While I am sceptical of these fuel additives, I am open to persuasion by long term results. The treatment may solve a sticking pressure switch in the short term but I question if it can solve the more fundamental problem of the exhaust system being blocked by soot, which is what the DPF switch is telling you. If the treatment fails to work I understand it is possible to induce an exhaust regeneration with VCDS or similar equipment. Others here may be able to confirm this point.

Was it coded to the car? It needs to be.

I understand now. If the car has a rear facing camera or radar linked to the brakes than it makes sense to disable that system when towing. I assume, perhaps wrongly, that Audi would have planned for that possibility and that the electrical connections at the tow ball would automatically disable that function.

Sorry Adam I won't sign up to anything to watch your video. My concern about the door was whether it was sagging because of worn hinges, which would be unusual on a 15 year old car, or the body had been twisted in a crash, which in turn might explain the cill damage on the other side. If you are satisfied the problem is merely worn hinges than all is well. I suggest you sort out the hinges before renewing the seals otherwise the new rubber will soon be damaged.

Any news on this matter Brad?

What do you mean by emergency braking? ABS?

And no more AC, which is not what you want in this weather. Will you get it fixed?

That's very good news. Compliments to the dealer for accepting the situation, though frankly he should have noticed the problem before putting it on sale.

Sorry Andrew, I don't know of a solution.

Tell us more about the driver's door. Can it be moved up and down on its hinges? Do the hinge screws still have their original paint? Does it align with the striker plate when being closed, or does it need to be slammed hard to latch? When fully closed, does it align with adjacent body panels, or is it twisted?

Thanks for the detailed report Vytautas.

John. Do you have question or did you join the forum merely to rant?

The cleanliness, part numbering and yellow paint suggest the engine has been newly rebuilt. Unfortunately as a private sale the vendor has little obligation to fix the leak unless you can show written evidence that he has deceived you regarding the engine condition.

Evidently Michael is not going to update this topic so I shall stop watching it.

Thanks for the report Alex. I have marked it as a solution for future reference.

GPS jamming or spoofing is well known over the Baltic Sea near Russia, but over Wigan?