cliffcoggin

Car manufacturers will clutch at any excuse, no matter how irrelevant, in an effort to avoid responsibility for guarantee work. If you can obtain written proof of servicing from whoever did it you will have a better chance with a possible claim.

There is a fair chance the wires are broken or shorting out in the rubber bellows between door and frame. It is a common problem with the driver's door because that gets the most use, but it can happen in other doors.

Unlikely, because Omar has not bothered to return to the forum for a year and a half.

Even if there is an easy fix, I think it would be worth taking it back to the dealer to avoid any possibility of invalidating the guarantee.

Do please let us know of progress.

I'll leave the fault codes for others to advise on.

If that is a simple voltage reading on a multi meter it is inadequate to determine whether a battery is defective. Steve is referring to a professional battery test that imposes a heavy load on the battery to expose internal faults within the battery such as high resistance or sulphation of the electrodes.

Very risky without a service history. Walk away from the deal.

Maidstone to London is an hour each way; Maidstone to Framlingham is three hours each way. Those journeys should be more than enough to induce regular regenerations to keep the DPF clear. Have you had any engine or Adblue warnings other than DPF?

You won't find defective CV joints with a crowbar. You need to clamp self locking grips onto the drive shaft and rotate it violently to detect any rotational slack. The gearbox needs to be locked by putting into a gear, and the wheels need to be locked either with the brakes or being on the ground while doing the test.

Were the replies any use to you Mark?

One last option to consider is to fabricate a new hose from sections of stainless steel pipe, stainless steel elbows, straight rubber hose, and Jubilee clips. It won't be pretty and there may not be space to install it, but it might just keep the car on the road.

Wise words. Too many scum staging crashes for fraudulent insurance claims.

Please do.

A musty stink often indicates residual stagnant water in the condenser, caused by the drain being blocked by dirt or leaves. A dribble of water under the car when parked after driving in humid conditions with aircon tells you the drain is open. If there is no water the drain is blocked.

Please don't even consider re-drilling the wheels. Moving the holes 6mm outwards will cut into the offset web, weakening them considerably. Try the spacers if you must, and accept the risk of fouling the bodywork, but realistically your best option is to sell them.

It may be a control problem or a vent motor fault. A diagnostic scan on a professional machine should identify it.

Bear in mind there could be a variable gas leak at the compressor depending on whether it is running or not. That would not be unexpected on a 15 year old car. I was offered some sort of additive for the gas in my car that was supposed to reduce leakage, but as a cynic about such things I declined the offer. I have no idea what it is called so you would need to research it yourself if interested in trying it.

Rhubarb. Rhubarb. Rhubarb. Can't hear a word you are saying Gareth.

The sourcing of low quality parts by manufacturers, and subsequent rebranding as OEM, has been mentioned a couple of times on this forum. I forget specifically who it was.

David. Zooming your pictures shows the meter to be set to the 0-20 amp scale, so the readings refer to amps not milliamps. That information confirms there is a significant power drain and explains the battery going flat overnight. Previous similar problems on this forum show that pulling fuses has not helped in diagnosing the fault, so I suggest you get the car to an electrician who will be able to test individual circuits. Before doing that please confirm you have not fitted any auxilliary equipment such as a dash cam or sat nav etc. that is connected to a permanent live supply, i.e. a supply that is not switched off by the ignition key.

Cassy. If you want meaningful opinions you need to be much more specific in telling us what parts of the car were damaged and repaired. All you have mentioned so far is the vague "I had a panal beater paint the bumper and fix some damage". As for the water in the boot, that could be window wash water from the wiper motor as Richard pointed out. It was a common problem in that model, and therefore possibly unrelated to the body repairs. Test the rear wash function to be certain.

By which time the engine may be damaged. How does that compare to the cost of a new level sensor?

Fair enough. As long as you are satisfied with the car.

No. Nothing.