cliffcoggin

Jamie. Your symptoms suggest there is no circulation in the cooling system, yet your garage has changed the obvious components, so I wonder if there is a physical blockage. Consider this possibility: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39ngHGvMzEg It usually only affects the cabin heater, but there is no reason why it can not affect other parts of the system.

Yes I appreciate that. I too am baffled because I would expect Japanese cars to be able to receive Japanese radio broadcasts, which happen to be much the same range of frequencies as we use in Britain. If you can find the model name or number of the radio perhaps you can get some data from the internet.

I doubt that being a Japanese import is relevent because this page: https://mytuner-radio.com/radio/country/japan-stations/frequency/fm tells us that 73-107 MHz is is use there. Have you tried "auto seek" or whatever the right term is? Have you tried manual tuning? Is there a second FM band you can switch to? Have you got a filter turned on to detect only strong signals?

I am puzzled. Why would you want a different battery when taking the car abroad? As for "I’ve read that AGM batteries need to be kept on charge." that is absolute nonsense. You treat an AGM battery the same as any other car battery.

All the more reason to contact the supplier of the charge point. As a matter of curiosity what brand is it?

Trev. The CP pin in the plug is shorter than all the others to ensure it is the last to make contact when plugged, and first to break contact when unplugged. (The CP circuit is the control for the charging operation.) That is why you can replicate the fault by only half plugging. Therefore while there may be a problem with the CP connection, I reckon it is more likely to be a fault in the charge point and you should recall its installer.

Unfortunately I doubt anybody in the forum can help beyond what has been written in the linked topic, because there is clearly a major flaw in the design and implementation of Audi's mild hybrid technology. Audi will resist any suggestion of responsibility for the problem, nevertheless I suggest you report the problem in writing to the company so that it can not deny awareness of the fault if there should ever be a resolution to it in the future. Sorry to say that your daughter has been sold a lemon, and at the moment there appears to be no legal redress.

Thanks.

How about an update Mustofa.

Janet. Assuming the mild hybrid technology on the A3 is the same as the A7, then you are not alone. See this: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/24906-alternator-failure-related-to-mild-hybrid-system/

Ray. I have moved your question to a topic of its own to avoid conflicting responses in its original thread.

Siyab. Watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJAScg6JrYI

I can't answer that with certainty. My own electric car will creep once drive is engaged, just like an old hydraulic automatic transmission, but my unsubstantiated impression is that the motor is only powered once the brake pedal is released.

That's a good start. Was it coded to the car?

Before you do anything or buy anything get the battery professionally tested, because a dying battery can cause all these problems. If the battery is more than five years old don't bother getting it tested, just buy a new one and get it coded to the car.

An old fashioned technique that might be worth trying is left foot braking i.e. hold the brakes with the left foot for a moment while applying throttle with the right foot. My old A3 protested when I did this but it worked.

Have you resolved the problem Davi?

Yes indeed, it may do so, but that is not certain. I frankly admit I do not know how the battery is coded to the car except that it involves the use of some types of diagnostic equipment. VCDS and OBD11 are two types that are known to work, while many of the cheap types do not have that capability. An auto electrician, Audi workshop, or independant VAG specialist should be able to do the work. Here is one of many videos on Youtube that explains the process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ysatH73_gM

Have you resolved the cabin heat problem Tracey?

Well chaps. It seems we have wasted out time responding to Michelle because she has not visited the forum since joining it and posting her query on Tuesday.

Thanks for letting us know.

That's bizarre! Just how gullible does the company believe the public to be? I suspect it to be an excuse for a restrictive practice.

Jeremy. The rear window heater is a large electrical load so I have no doubt there will be fuse for it somewhere, but exactly where I have no idea. Have you found every fuseboard yet? Most cars nowadays have two or even three fuseboards tucked away in odd spaces.

I have to say that the presence of stop/start on an otherwise desirable car would not put me off buying it. My limited experience of the system on a nine year old Skoda automatic is that it works well, though it is a little unnerving at first to find the engine starting itself as soon as the throttle pedal is pressed. Having said that, I am not convinced the system is worthwhile because in slow moving traffic jams it puts a huge drain on the battery, and will soon be automatically disabled as the voltage drops.

No noisier than non electric cars, though you will hear such noises more readily because the drive train is so quiet. Any road noise you hear is undoubtedly as a result of the low profile tyres providing a harder ride. There are quiet tyres available with sound absorbing rubber foam stuck inside the carcass, but they are still new on the market and not yet of proven durability. You would get a quieter, softer ride with a smaller wheel/higher profile tyre, though I can not recommend a specific combination.