cliffcoggin

Nothing in life is free Steve, least of all engine power. Extracting more power will mean increased wear that will lead to lower reliability. It's a trade off that only you can decide its worth for your circumstances and wealth.

The shells look pretty poor and in need of renewal, but the big end journals are unmarked. Nevertheless it would be worth measuring the journal diameters with a micrometer at several points to ensure they are still round and parallel. The chances are that the crankshaft main bearings are in similar condition so they need to be inspected. The oil pump has a mark where the rotor has scuffed it. Whether that is enough to cause a pressure reduction depends on how much end float the rotor has. You would need to measure that end float and compare it to specification to be certain. Check also the amount of side play in the pump bearings while it is open, and look at its drive shaft to ensure it is undamaged. Given the state of the bearings and the low compression you ought to pull the pistons out and inspect the bores and the rings. There's no point repairing the bottom of the engine without fixing the top as well. If all the above is in need of repair you are heading for a very expensive repair which will cost several times the value of the car. That is fine if money is no object, just as long as you are prepared for it.

I agree with your logic that a temperature sensor fault is the likely cause of the problem, probably the ambient or external sensor. Unfortunately I have no idea where it is.

No signal means an aerial fault or the car is in a dead zone. Check the connections from antenna to back of radio.

Is there supposed to be question included?

Thanks for letting us know.

I can't imagine how the chain could jump a tooth in a stationary engine, but if that has happened the last thing you should do now is to turn the engine over else it could be damaged further.

Thanks M. Steam or water vapour is inevitable because water is one of the combustion products of any engine burning a hydrocarbon. It will be even more pronounced from a hydrogen fuelled engine if such things come to pass.

You may be right Kev, but I am not convinced. I would expect any compression in the engine to have leaked away over a few hours, leaving one able to at least turn it a little with a lever on the flywheel. Richard's mention of possible differential damage, which is not something I was aware of as a possibility, should be investigated first in my view because of the likely cost involved of its repair. No point in buying a £200 battery if the diff needs several thousands spent on it.

Ravi. That bag of silica gel has caused endless problems to many owners when it bursts. The crystals block the heater matrix and sometimes the thermostat leading to expensive replacements. Whether Audi have ceased fitting the bag I do not know so it would be worth enquiring before purchase. Do please let us know the answer.

Sorry Tomas. I can not hear any unusual sounds. People often post audio and video recordings in an effort to identify unusual noises, but it is rare that we can hear anything strange, so you are not alone.

How? Well that's easy. As long as Audi can fob off their gullible customers with the excuse that it is a characteristic of the car, then the company need not spend any money curing the problem. Sorry to disillusion you, but Audi is not the reputable company it once was.

Leaving aside all the electrical faults, the inability to turn the engine over with a lever is especially worrying. Can I assume the mechanic removed the injectors to de-compress the engine?

Well M. We are waiting with baited breath for the promised update. Will you oblige?

Thanks for letting us know.

Patrick. You have not mentioned the electrical load of the telescope but consider this: if you are delayed returning to the car its battery may be flattened leaving you unable to start the car or perhaps even open the doors to enter. That would be no fun on a cold dark night miles from home.

How can anybody advise if you don't tell us what the issues are and what Audi Norwich have said in response?

You might also try car audio specialists.

Thanks for letting us know. I like those sort of cheap fixes.

Topic locked as it is a duplicate of another. Andy please do not duplicate topics, it won't get you any more attention.

Fair enough. If it had been an after market radio it could have been wired into the wrong power supply. That cause is now eliminated, and I don't know what else to suggest except an auto electrician.

Do you still have the original radio fitted, or has it been changed?

Forgive me butting in Chris but you seem to be turning a blind eye to Magnet's strong hints about the state of your engine, so let me be more forthright. Running the engine for a year without adequate lubrication has spoiled the piston ring sealing in the cylinders as your compression figures clearly demonstrate. (Incidently that's likely to mean the big end and main bearings are also clapped out.) No amount of new oil pumps are going to restore the rings and bores, so there will be exhaust blow past leading to smoke, high emissions, blocked exhaust and MOT failure. I fear you have left it to late to save that engine.

"Computer says no, so you are a liar" is an all too familiar response from Audi recently.

Thanks. That noise could be many things. Does the noise change when the engine is revved in neutral? Does it change when revved under load?