cliffcoggin

Ben. Get a good quality battery such as Varta, Exide etc, not one of the cheap ones which will let you down in short order. Ensure you code it the car using something like OBD11 and the like. This explains how and why the coding is done, albeit with a different gadget: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SDeewdrTmX0&t=1s

Well that's a very nice, and rather unexpected, result.

Shane. Was the above of any help to you?

It's worth trying to claim on the warranty, though like you I have a good idea what they will say. I doubt that any modern car has such an inherent clutch fault. That sounds like an excuse a secondhand car dealer would trot out.

It is very possibly the immobiliser from the symptoms you describe. If Audi will not touch it I suggest you find an auto electrician or an independant VAG specialist to test it. I assume such people exist in France.

I find it hard to believe all those modules failed simultaneously, so what were the circumstances of the failures and what were the symptoms? Did your electrical friend do the diagnosis on OBD11 or similar equipment?

Ron. Have you checked the wiper linkage is undamaged? The problem may not be the motor at all.

My first thought was a broken engine mounting, but that usually causes an audible clunk as it moves. Nevertheless it is worth checking them all as a first step. My second thought is a broken spring in the driven plate. Clutch removal will be needed to confirm if that is so.

Liam. Do you hear any knocks or bangs when the car lurches?

I am curious about checking the chassis alignment. Has it been crashed?

Rob. Nobody has suffered a gearbox failure because of too many oil changes.

Thanks for letting us know.

Donna. Are you going to read the responses to your question, and perhaps even reply in turn?

Whatever spring you settle on, ensure you do the same on the other side. Springs should always be replaced with matched pairs.

Thats up to you, but you would need to cut back to a straight section because sealing the new hose on a bend will be difficult.

A3 clusters of that era are known to fail, so don't discount a similar problem with your A4. They can be repaired by several companies for less than £300. ECU Testing have a good reputation in that respect but there are others if you care to search.

Gary. Am I right in thinking you to get rid of the car in one piece, rather than break it yourself? You are welcome to advertise it on this forum's Sale section. You should include a good description, an asking price, and what you propose regarding collection/delivery. I have to add that I think it unlikely you will get more than the scrap value, but you have nothing to lose by trying.

I am not familiar with the A4 so I can not be more specific. A large radius bend will put less strain on the hose than a small radius, but don't go to extremes. You don't want such a large radius that it flops around or rubs against other components.

Stephen. I have moved this topic to an A4 forum as it does not belong in introductions. I can't answer your questions, but I do ask what makes you think you need all those modules. Are you certain they are all defective?

Mark. If that is the return line, not the delivery line, then it will not need to be bled. The outside diameter is unimportant; it's the internal diameter that needs to match your existing hose to ensure a snug fit on the metal pipe. Ensure the hose is suited to the fuel. Not all grades of hose can be used on both diesel and petrol.

Amelia. You had marked the wrong post as the solution. I have changed it to the correct one.

I have no recommendations, but this came up in an internet search: https://www.autosiliconehoses.com/rubber-hose-steel-overbraided-fuel-oil-nbr-automotive-hoses.html

I don't know about ready made hoses, but there are companies which will fabricate hoses to order.

My guess is the ignition switch or one of the relays is defective, causing the contacts to not open. I suggest you get it tested by an auto electrician.

What was the result of the latest investigation?