Steve Q

1 hour ago, marc74 said:

Hi guys changed the injector and all four glow plugs and it's still the same? 

Did it say which injector was at fault?

I'm just considering options on future trips which might be more extreme. My current tyres are 205/55/16. 

I've seen I can get a body lift kit for the A6. I'm wondering if 205/80/16 or 205/70/16 tyres will fit without causing steering or gearbox issues? 

I appreciate most all terrain tyres are on allroads but just seeing if it's possible in a standard A6 which is a "narrow body" compared to the allroads "wide body". I must add, the allroad standard wheel size are 17". 

Cheers

Steve 

Very interesting Steve, you've got me thinking as my c5 has never had a new throttle body in its whole 21 years of life.... 

Glad you've found the parts cheaper 🙂 does the new one have to be coded? 

What condition is the egr in? 

I'd look on eBay. The hardest but will be to get the old spoiler off as the bonding agent is pretty tough! 

There should be a mark that says auto on the light unit to show when it's auto lights 

1 hour ago, IHK 11 said:

I was lucky to be fair. Thanks.

No probs at all 

On 1/26/2023 at 8:05 PM, Stevey Y said:

Hi I can concur with Steve Q as the additional Ethanol added makes it less stable but allows the refiners to make more money as it is a cheap filler as per gov regulation, remember these are the people who told us that we should buy diesel vehicles as they are better for the environment and then spent the last decade trying to hang diesel owners out to dry, I agree with you stick with E5 if you can.

Steve.

Exactly Steve. My A6 brochure tells me how good it is for the environment! 

Regardless of our views on emissions and the environment, one thing we can all agree one is that any government in power is a money hungry, living so n so. I just know my Audi is more environmentally friendly than any modern electric milk float. 

Nothing will change until build carbon for any item is taken into account when considering the environment. 

Nice one. Definitely not! Gone are the days when cars were simple!

1 hour ago, alpha omega said:

All done .Been an amateur it took a few hours to do.In the end i decided to remove the bumper and bring the front end forward a few inches to make it easier to change the pulleys and auxillary belt.It started off well but hit a couple of snags along the way.i had to lean right over to be able to see the hidden bolt at the back of the alternator which when undone realeases the pulley tensioner.and as in one of the pics i had to keep swapping the 13mm spanners overs every time i made a slight turn on the bolt.so i would suggest to anyone who wants to have a go undo that bolt first before moving the front end forward but still a back acher(its a learning process)Also as steve mentioned about the alternator clutch pulley been a fruitless job as even with the two special tools(see pic 1) and all my strength i could not remove it.As for the the idle pulley that was easy enough to remove i believe i used a torx t50.i looked on youtube beforehand to put the belt on and realised after an hour of trying that you need to end up at the idle pulley(forget the one on youtube).A tip from steve do not remove the pin from the tensioner pulley until your certain the belt is sitting in its grooves and around the pulleys properly otherwise it sound like it would be hard to get the belt back on....What a job i had trying to get the pin out.i thought it was a straight pin OH NO(see pic)i realised after a while that the pin had a dog leg in it.so had to hacksaw it of which is very close to the belt.I  found the drain plug(see pic)handy just need to turn it backwards a couple of turns(a bit stiff) with of course a bowl underneath. loosen the antifreeze cap once you have drained the Anti freeze you need to lift the clip up thats on the pipe with a screwdriver(see pic)and then pull and tug but watch your knuckles(experience lol) to remove the pipe..then press the clip back down and when its time to put the pipe back it just clips into place dont forget to close the drain plugAnd of course once all back together i topped up with the pink stuff and checked for leaks(all good)..Doing the job on my own i used a tie to hold the bumper up while undoing both fog light connectors.another tip undo the antifreeze container(just two nuts)as the pipe becomes tight otherwise when pulling the front end forward.you only need to remove the big undertray leave the smaller one in thats at the very front.magnetic tray comes in handy.Overall very happy.thanks all and thanks steve for the tips.😁 pic 1 showing parts i bought(your choice)please ignore double picture.no pink anti freeze showing.removed engine cover and timing belt cover.loosened wheel nuts jacked car up.put two axle stands under the car.removed large undertray removed 2 torx bolts either side of wheel arches peeled them back removed  what can be seen in pic 8/9/10 peeled back(tugged carefully) both top corners of bumper.tied the bumper up then pulled backwards and removed bumper out of the way removed connector pic 12 then used pincers to remove plastic holder and undo nut that holds the horn on pic 13.same on the other side. pic 14/15/16 remove crash bar.(2 long bolts either side) plus  6 large bolts(3 either side of bumper one slightly tight above a air con pipe.you will then need a lump hammer to knock the bar out.pic 17 barrier removed.remove pipes pic 18/19.pic 20 drain antifreeze(with cap off) lift clip up on end of pipe.push clip back down one drained and close drain plug.then remove antifreeze container away from bulkhead (2 nuts)to avoid stretching pipe.pic 21 remove 3 torx bolts that holds the bonnet catch in place.pic 22 is part of the bonnet catch be careful to undo. i left in place with a stretch once front end is moved forward.pic 23 leave these 2 torx bolts(one at either side until you find something ready to support the front end underneath once you've undo them and moved the front end forward.pic 24 if you have not removed the tensioner then you can do that now,as long as the nut that holds it in has been removed from the back of the alternator(pic26....pic 25 remove idle pulley with a torx t40?.pic 27 shows the clutch alternator pulley with a 12 point star piece see pic 1 with the 2 special tools needed to remove it from the alternator(please note some have only 6 star point and the black round piece with a nut holder on it has 33 strpes inserts to lock it into the pulley(does not fit fully in only part.pic 28 check belt is same size.pic 29 showing how belt goes.pic 30 showing the shape of the pin in the tensioner pulley again do not remove the pin until belt in its proper place.i thought the pin was straight.no mention of it been that shape on youtube.pic 31 just a spare pic of what this area looks like...... pic 32(circled does not seem right to me on timing. will it be ok.everything is reversal of removal.a bit fiddly putting the bumper front back to line it all up.just be careful when inserting the top right corners and left corners back.put them in place once the framework is flush with the headlights etc.thanks again all hope it helps.i am only an amateur and expect crititism so i am thick skinned lol😁 total cost for parts £189 euro car parts

 

 

This is brilliant thanks for sharing this 😊

6 minutes ago, Christopher8P said:

I prefer the 7 spoke, but powder coated in the cars colour. Look minted. But these aren’t 100% the same as yours, these are RS4 replica’s

Looks great 👍

20 minutes ago, Ade B said:

I have owned this car from new since August 2000 and it has been serviced every year with MOT to October 2023. 
Mileage 139,000.

I am emotionally attached but would consider selling as now retired and have a 2015 Audi A1 Auto.

Does anyone know what price this car would be worth?

I'd recommend you keep it if you can. I think you'll regret selling it. 

You're welcome. Sorry autologics couldn't help you. 

Could be caused by a seized piston in the brake caliper causing the brake pad to be rubbing on the brake disc when brakes aren't applied. Definitely worth getting this checked out. 

16 minutes ago, Jaype1 said:

Calum it was the fuel pump, I had it taken out and put back in a few times as the replacement parts weren’t correct, the original one going back in a third time and the noise stopped. The garage thinks there was probably something stuck in it that got dislodged while being moved about. It hasn’t made the noise since.

Jaype.

Glad you got sorted 🙂

I'd definitely be making a complaint especially as you've paid for the update. 

On 1/24/2023 at 7:16 AM, SDJ said:

Thanks. Diagnosis check next Monday and I’ll talk to the local Audi specialist about this to avoid main dealer charges. 

No probs. Please keep us posted on how you get on 🙂

15 hours ago, IHK 11 said:

Just an update. Ive managed to get some E5 and have been told its not a problem at the moment. I found some additives for £12 that would do 4 full tanks of E10 so thats something i would consider if i couldnt get E5 again. The car does run so much better on E5 tho. 

Glad you got sorted 🙂 glad you had a lucky escape with that leaking fuel line.

On 1/25/2023 at 1:19 PM, 9580cabowner said:

Thanks all. 

 

I bought a rack off a 2.5 but the same year. It looks to be the same as the one fitted but without taking it off I can't be sure so... 🤞

 

If I've bought the wrong one as a replacement I'll refurbish the original and refit it but that is more complicated than a straight swop and it's time off the road that I don't really want. We'll see what happens in March when she comes out of storage. 

Keep us posted on how you get on 🙂

Sorry to hear your selling up. Lovely car. 

Id recommend a diagnostic check to see if any fault codes flag up. When was the gearbox oil.last changed as this can affect the gearbox changing gears. 

Yea you could try a software update on the gearbox or needing a new sensor. Worst case scenario it's the module that may have failed. 

Hi Andrew please could you give us more information? 

Power loss could be caused by various reasons such as failing turbos, injectors or maf sensors etc. 

Yea it'll need to be coded. You might find you'll need the code for the new unit too. 

I'm glad you've narrowed it down. My advice is to remove the scuttle panel completely to gain better access. 

Could be a sensor or an issue with the heater control system. 

Please keep us posted on how you get on 🙂