Dan3222

Thanks for taking the time to post your resolution, it’s good to hear people fixing their own issues rather than relaying on a garage.

It’s common for the dipstick to actually pop up under internal crank case pressure and the cause could very simply be a blocked engine breather. I would start with this first and ensure it’s breathing again and see if the dipstick issue returns to normal.

Is the part with the green arm/lever available as a secondhand part? If you say that the cable moves the vents easy enough by hand then u are probably right it’s the motor/lever that’s the issue at a guess. Difficult to say.

Stainless

She is lovely mate. Don’t see many convertibles either. Enjoy

You could get one of these to help source coolant leak. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F230723938073

I would guess the new motor needs coding as suggested by Magnet. everyday is a school day though, I never knew that they had introduced a cut of failsafe for wipers not working with bonnet open.

That’s a lucky result. But yes definitely get the codes read.

I have just checked eBay and there are several cables listed from breaker yards?

Ok, so the green arm is the one that moves that should open close the vents? If so, it is very likely that the cable/wire that goes to the vents is kinked somewhere. It’s quite common but more so on manual knobs tbh. Either that or something has fallen into the vents stopping them opening. See if you can trace the cable though, you might be able to straighten it out but it might need a bit of support like a splint to stop it happening again in the same place. i hope this helps

My English is terrible!

Ok, is the controls automated, ie you have climate control? Or do you have manual knobs to turn to change where the air comes out of?

My mate had one but in Avant form. Drove beautifully but both front wings let it down. I think ur right to get a replacement as it looks like the wing has been resprayed recently so I bet there is much more brown stuff lurking under the filler and paint.

Are you a member of The AA or such like to get them to come and fault read it for you?

Hi Jon, this could be caused by a number of separate issues and I feel that you should have the vehicle codes read to see if any codes tell you what it is. My guess is that it’s an electrical fault somewhere. I doubt it’s fuel related. Very difficult to say.

Can I ask what might be an obvious question, the fan it’s self is blowing air and it comes out of face and feet vents but when you try to move the controls to make air come out of the screen vent no air comes out of that? Long question lol

I could send u a box of safety matches, my shout!!

Watching with anticipation. Be great of you could take a couple of photos to help other (and me) dont forget to hoover like crazy before you open the large plastic nut. You don’t want crud getting into the fuel.

She is lovely. Less of the old though, she is just middle aged. 😗

Yeah good if they will take another look. Why not suggest you pay for a pump and they fit for free? Especially as you may not have needed the injector seals......... though it’s not bad that they have been changed. they would be able to change a pump in less than an hour!?!

That’s a shame, nightmare when you get new wheels and something developed quickly like this. My gues by description is the clutch bearing or the clutch it’s self along with the dual mass fly wheel is on its way out. Did you buy it from a garage? If you did take it back now under their warrantee

I would say give yourself 2 hours to replace the pump. It should be located under the rear seat which should just pull up, a sharp tug. -Clean up with hover and collect all the spare change lurking under the seat. Clean well arond the top of the tank/fuel housing. -Disconnect battery earth to be safe or just be cautious when removing electrical connections -Remove the fuel hoses, press the button to release each hose connector. - carefully tap the massive plastic nut holding the pump housing (again make sure you have removed all debris before removing, u don’t want that in the tank. - Replace the pump and put back together. -Prime the pump and the the fuel pipe by turning the ignition on several times without engaging the starter motor. Leave in position 2 for 5 seconds. You should hear the pump working for approx 5 seconds. - try starting her up. - my only tip on a diesel is try to have the engine warm before you do all this work. Because of the chance of air being in the system. A warm engine usually fires better than a cold one. Easier starting. Great advice when changing a fuel filter too. SHould you take on this mission, this message should not explode 😉

Magnet has a point actually, it has been tested by a derv specialist!?! This is where it gets difficult for a joe bloggs giving advice to a Sam Smith where to spend some money. But if I was in your shoes right now this is what I would do. Park car nose down for at least 3 consective nights, if it starts no issues it pretty much proves fuel running back to tank issues. Next if you want to, clamp the fuel return pipe coming from the filter. Leaving car parked flat. Remove clamp in the morning, see how she fires up. these tests basically also rule out injector seals as the main cause. Though not saying they are 100% fine of course (covering my back there 😬) All this confirms fuel is eventually losing the vacuum that keeps it in the pipes and mechanical bits. Now, extrapolating info from other forums, on 1.6,1.9, 2.0 and 2.5 TDI engines fitted to VW, Audi and Seat vehicles, the most common fix is the primary electronic pump fitted in the tank. The non return valve built into it being the issue. Your talking less than £50 for the pump but shop around, e.g https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F162547351547 You might have some negotiation leverage with the firm you spent money with to contribute to the labour of doing this maybe!?!

I am just pleased it’s a straight forward fix for you 👍

Wayne. I have to say the Dunlop sports are the worst tyres I have ever used on a car. I had them on an A3 and golf 2.0TDI’s. the grip in the wet was simply terrible. I could just use the acceleration alone to come of roundabouts, without turning the steering wheel! A bit of fun perhaps but not confindence inspiring. Pits very wet where I am all the time BTW, here in sunny Scotland.