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The greater the offset, the more the rim is moved away from the hub, so you need more offset to clear the leg.

Count yourself lucky its not the V10. The V8 is generally reliable, however you're buying a 2016-2018 supercar, so it's been around. History is everything. If there's more paperwork than a Brexit export, then you're on the right lines. If the tyres are on the legal limit and brakes need a refresh, then be aware it will be expensive and more importantly question why? Simply saying RS6 seems to add £2k to everything. I'd want the car scanned first off with VCDS to see if there's any historical DTC errors logged. This is a performance car so oil changes every 5-8k miles. In terms of issues. Air intake valves can carbon up. You could treat it to a walnut blast. It's sensor heavy, so if original battery, factor in replacement. It needs coded to car and vented. If panoramic roof, check drain holes. Run mild detergent down them (exit above hinge on front door) and behind rear wheel arch liner. VAG have specific grease for sunroof. Also clean rubber seals. Assuming LED headlights. Potentially LED matrix if later car. Then check operation. Dipping light adjustment on start up is normal, but any further sporadic movent underway points to damaged or siezed height adjustment sensors. Servicing, diffs could use gear oil change. Depends on mileage. It's a ZF 6-speed transmission, but there will be a filter kit, so unless evidence of having it done, factor in. Cooling, apparently this thing has multiple radiators, fans and oil coolers. All are prone to wear and tear. If the car was remapped, be very wary.

Just wondering which gearbox service kit members recommend for the zf 6 speed auto box on the 3.0 tdi (240bhp) A6 C6 Allroad? Thanks

Good evening gentlemen, upon replacing my pcv I have taken my car down the motorway and a large amount of blue smoke came from the back when overtaking, I had continued for another 3 miles and pulled over and there was some smoke coming from exhaust, I turned car off for about 10 mins and drove the 15 miles home and not a single bit of smoke, gave it proper acceleration all the way through 3rd and 4th to about 110mph and nothing so belive this has fixed my issue

Hi guys, I have a 2008 audi a5 coupe 3.0 tdi on about 138k miles, the ac was blowing ice cold on 1 side and slightly warmer on the other, it was like this for a couple weeks but then eventually stopped blowing cold at all so I thought it was just a case of getting it regassed, I took it to 2 different places to get it regassed but both said that no matter what they couldn't get the compressor to engage/kick in.. they said it could be a sensor, a switch or the compressor itself.. so I've now taken it to a 3rd place for a diagnosis and they said they think it's the compressor but to test the compressor they have to basically get to a point where they start taking it off to get to the plug so I might aswell just replace it while they're at it since they think that's the problem anyway.. what do u guys think? I've scanned the car using obdeleven and got the car scanned by them and it's got no codes at all

Yes u are right, cleaned it off and inspected it properly and its pointing towards front crankshaft seal. I keep getting a persistent P0341 error for camshaft sensor, which I’ve replaced but still appears. Im thinking it could be related. Once again thank you for your input 🙏

Gauze missing from cam-bridge...... Removed pcv, hpfp, vacuum pump and of course the cam-bridge and valve parts. Had the inlet manifold off to fit another seal so been check there also (I know not likely) Any rare sightings welcomed 🤔

Into the garage on Monday

Hi guys New to the Audi forum, even though I've had my car for about 8 years. Had a lot of work done on it lately, including crank pulley, drive belt, water pump, coolant valve, etc. Car is in otherwise good working order and has clocked up 108k miles. Last few days, I've noticed that when I accelerate (and ONLY when I accelerate), car is making an audible sound when I go past 20mph. Its not going into limp mode. It still pulls well and the revs go up as they should. The more I accelerate, the more this noise gets louder. The clutch doesn't feel too spongey or too firm. At a push, the accelerator pedal may be giving off a very subtle vibration - nothing major. The best way I can describe the sound is like that of a sporty car with a loud exhaust when it is being driven fast. Like a loud whining sound? I have attached a clip that will hopefully be able to help. My possible thoughts are either something to do with the turbo or the wheel bearing. Many thanks in advance for anyone that recognises the issue. Cheers, Oz20260702_121029.mp4

mis understanding steve he said its a pig to do

Hi. Please feel free to give us a try for insurance if you wish. We give discounts of up to 15% of car insurance for members. Regards, Dan.

Was the above response helpful to you Suheel? I know you have seen it and the responses to your other question.

Hey there Kieran, I've got an '85 Quattro B2 and was just looking for a wing mounted arial myself. https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/aerial-10795/audi/80/80-81-85-b2 Entering the reg. on their site and filtering to what you want seems easy enough. Good Luck Dean

Fair enough as long as it was coded.

Thanks, Steve. /Chris

Hey everyone, hunting a bizarre wiring short on a 2015 Audi A4 2.0 tdi 190ps . and wanted to see if anyone has encountered this specific failure point before I strip the entire loom back. The Core Symptoms: The car was doing an excessive amount of DPF regenerations. On vcds calculated soot mass was always quite high measured 90% of the time is in the negatives which is impossible oil ash at 30g Checking live data showed a permanent 5.7V on the 5V sensor reference line. I got new dpf sensor.after unplugging lots of sensors i Swapped in a second-hand ECU, and the constant 5.7V remains, ruling out a blown internal ECU voltage regulator or bad remap / adblue delete If the reference pin at the back of the DPF pressure sensor is physically depinned/isolated, the operations of the pressure sensor return to normal functions (or pretty much normal functions). The Breakthrough: While troubleshooting, I moved/wiggled the main wiring harness inside the static plenum/cowl chamber (roughly 4 to 8 inches away from where it exits the ECU box). Moving this specific section instantly triggers clicking relays, flashes the glow plug light on the dash, and throws "overvoltage to glow plugs Current Conclusion: It appears a constant 12V supply wire (ignition feed or relay trigger) has chafed, melted, or cross-shorted directly into the 5V reference wire inside that wrapped plenum chamber bundle, back-feeding and overpowering the circuit. My Questions for the Forum: Has anyone seen this bundle short out inside the static plenum chamber before? Is there a sharp factory clip or edge inside there known for slicing the tape? Does anyone happen to know which specific 12V feed runs parallel to the 5V reference line in this exact stretch so I know what color wires to hunt for? Any wiring diagrams for a 2.0 tdi a4 190ps or past experiences with this specific bundle would be massively appreciated!

Not having confidence in main dealers is terrible, although I feel I was dealt with ok this time I would avoid main dealer like the plague..😅

To be honest just buy it from the main dealer. Probably less than you think and you know quality is good. You'll need tensioner pulley and water-pump too.

Great pics and trip. I did something similar a few years ago it was great.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

So the seats look like they're from an allroad. The wood is darker than mine. Sorry to hear the ECU is missing. Hope it's found soon!

Hi thats better I think a good spray with WD40 and then try twisting it, try left and right gently I have a feeling the end that goes in the filter cover has some sort of locking tabs. Steve.

Zac. It is not advisable to buy secondhand gearboxes for a car of that age, unless direct from a transmission reconditioning company. They will all be worn or damaged no matter what the seller tells you. Before buying any more gearboxes I suggest you get the car onto a diagnostic code reader to find out what is wrong. It may be that repair of the existing box will be cheaper than a reconditioned one or the purchase of another car.

That's remarkably cheap for a garage fitted wiper motor. I suggest you give them the job and save yourself the hassle of broken boot liner clips.