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Welcome Jerry, Common problem across many marques. I’ve used EBay aftermarket ones in the past and they have done what they supposed to do. Consideration;- originals have lasted 9 years, aftermarket are less than 1/10 of the cost, so if they last a year, you are quids in. What’s not to like? Could you please keep the forum updated on what you do, so that other members can benefit from your experience. Regards, Gareth.

Not sure if this should be a B8 or B9 forum post but here goes... 2016 plate 2.0 TDI avant with the DEUA engine - everything suggests closer to a B9 than B8 including my recent replacement undertray and 8W5 on the options card. When at rest with the gearbox in neutral I have on occasions struggled to get into 1st or 2nd gear. As I move to the left gate, then push up or down there's an absolute resistance. No meshing of gears or anything, but a physical lock on the gear stick. I can release and select 3/4 (or 5/6) with ease, but pulling away in 3rd is a little haphazard. Occasionally, I'll select reverse, instead of 1st, which is always entertaining at the traffic lights for me and the car behind. In these situations amongst the panic I will select neutral and then back to 1st and inevitably will reselect reverse. At the same time I'll try to remedy by going to 2nd, and that's usually locked out with the same mechanical block. This happened last night in a supermarket carpark as I'm reversing, and I'm nearing the end of my tether (the car needs expensive work including clutch/DMF.... and it's getting tired and at 10 years old I'm thinking of just driving into the ground. Anyway, this morning out of frustration, and having a session with ChatGPT I did try a few static tests. It's possible that I'm at fault here - if I analyse my behaviour I think I'm probably selecting the left gate and then pushing the gear stick in the 7 / 11 o'clock direction - i.e. a force applied laterally to the passenger side as well as pushing forward and backwards. If I consciously bias this way I can reproduce the fault (in fact I thought I'd completely lost 2nd until I worked out that I was applying the lateral force as well). Statically, both engine running an engine off I can reproduce not being able to select 1st and 2nd. Unsure if this is representative of my actual driving style, particularly if I'm panicking at the lights trying to get into 1st, but it's quite possible/probable. I'll know next time it happens. I hope. BUT, long story short, are there any adjustments, or (following the generalised advice from ChatGPT) any cable adjustment, or selector mechanism to be investigated for wear / adjusted to avoid this situation (/resolve the 1st/2nd gear selection)? I've seen YT videos of adjusting cables in the engine bay but never with a DEUA engine. ChatGPT suggests (and I sort of agree) this is likely a mechanical issue before it even hits the gearbox, and the engine-off test absolves the otherwise high mileage clutch/DMF.

What exactly do you want me to reply too? I thought personally one of the answer was rude and find this forum to be quite sparky, thats why I didnt answer, and your comment just strengthens my initial thoughts.

Thanks for your help Steve, will do some more digging on a b9 door then!

Hi the tolerance for the adaption is plus or minus five degrees you don't state which engine you have, ergo chain driven means the chain has stretched or the tensioner is worn, if its belt driven it could well be the sensors or if its high milage the variation units could be clogged. Steve.

Just adding a bit more info- some independent vag dealerships can access sfd2 via the official odis coding software but charges are some £300 for access. This is to allow retrofiting of some features such as reversing cameras. Not sure if they would make changes to safety features for you?

Did you code the new battery to the car? It needs to be done to ensure it is charged correctly. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFK0JPs6aO0

Great! very helpful to know what I might be looking at. Many thanks.

My understanding is Audi just change the oil, however there's a mesh filter which needs cleaned. Pretty sure it will be 5 generation Haldex.

Thanks guys. That’s what I was thinking. 😩 I wonder has anyone else had this problem with there SQ5? What are people’s thoughts on Poole Audi also?

Wasted words I am afraid, Richard. Neil has not returned to the forum since his message of 13th July.

Hi could be an auxiliary water pump they use these to circulate the water if the weather is hot after the engine is stopped it prevents cooking the cylinder head, by the looks of the coolant temp it was already hot when you started the car. Steve.

Stormbroadcast - today - with just 2 previous posts, should be deleted?

hi all I have a set of roof bars for a 19 plate A7 if any one is looking , they have never been on a car and a bargain at 190 plus postage , based in Malvern

Thanks for letting us know. I'll lock this topic.

Hello Bob, The forum is looking for some feedback from you, on the help you asked for. Thanks. Gareth.

Vibration could be anything, wheel balance, bearing, brakes. Wheel balance is as good a place to start - relatively inexpensive. Bearings usually have constant drone from 40mph up and really bad ones will have a wobble. Brakes, then sticky caliper will force contact with disc. You can usually smell. Drive for 10-15 minutes and coast to a stop. Brakes may be warm, but definitely not hot. If all that checks out, the only other thing is suspension arms. You'll normally feel a clunk over uneven road surfaces. If car has auto lights - it may be ambient light sensor. VCDS might mick this up in a scan.

Hi Nigel. I drive to Ireland several times a year and I always have to go in to the menu to change it over to kms. Hope that helps.

The three-button reset didn't fix it. Looks like I'm doing more investigation. I tried a scan tool which sadly returned no errors... Thanks for your suggestions guys.. If I find anything else, I'll come back with that later.

Hi guys and girls. Hope this is okay. Thought this was a New Zealand site when joining. I crashed my A6 c5 wide-body 2002 Audi. And before I send to wreckers seeing if anyone needs parts. I have owned it for 14 years now and spend bit of money making it stronger. Rebuild trans, abs system, cooling system, made from two cars. Regn on hold.

Hi get it scanned for faults, then come back and we can help.

Thank you for your advice

I can recommend this place, though you may feel it is too far from Esher. It's where I took my 2007 A3 during my ownership. https://msautoservices.com/

hello everyone im new here and i recently got a 2006 audi a3 8p 2.0tdi quattro at first it just had an idle issue so the revs on idle would just go up to 1k and after some time would go back to normal then when i push it past around 135km/h it would ussually put the car in limp mode and after a restart its bakc to normal but when i woke up today went outside started it everything seemes normal i started driving got up to fourth gear accelerated and started to hear a knock but only while accelerating its similair in fifth gear as well have any of you had any similair issues?