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Send us some photos of the issue Steve.

Hi..have the fault code P001600 code. Reads “ crank shaft position-camshaft position correlation bank 1 sensor A “ basically more frequently now I have an issue starting but it always does start drives and runs fine. Economy still good. Performance still good. Belt tensioners and pump changed around 30,000 ago. Now done 156,000. I’m hoping it’s just a bad sensor..where is the camshaft sensor located? Is it under the belt cover! Easy job? Or NOT? Audi A3 2.0TDI 8P

Glad you got sorted 🙂

Undoubtedly they will help if you pay them lots of money. Subscription services are a nasty increasing trend amongst car makers recently. BMW tried it a few years ago in regard to some of the luxury features that required an annual payment for continued operation.

My wife's Yeti has the stop/start system which I surmise from watching its operation works as follows. The stop/start control constantly measures the battery voltage when the engine is stopped to ensure there is enough power left to restart the engine. Urban driving involving many stops/starts without enough time between stops to fully recharge the battery will be sensed by the control which then prevents engine stops when stationary. Add to this the load imposed by the AC system in hot weather and stops may not happen at all. All of this requires a special kind of battery (AGM) which needs to be in tip top condition for the function to work. That's why one of the first symptoms of a failing battery is that the stop/start system does not engage. Personally I am undecided if the system is worthwhile if you take the wider view of the overall impact on the environment. Does the fuel and emission saving balance the extra wear on starter motors and batteries which then require replacement using more materials and energy? I don't know because I can not quantify the two sides of the equation, and as a scientist at heart verifiable facts are important to me.

Hi. If I read correctly data sheets, then both models (55 and 60) use the same electric motor (same power). In EV only mode they behave the same - max 130kw of power (same 10s acceleration to 100kmh), but in combined mode the 55 version limits electric motor performance to caa 50kw. If above asumption is correct then there is only SW limitation, since the HW electronics needs to support max 130kw power in only EV mode?

This is what it should look like

I really like the Irish sense of humour!

Hello, everybody! I had an issue with my brake system and decided to share the problem solving approach I taken. Cheers! A8 D4_FSI_brake system problem_solved.docx

Sorry if missed that bit. In that case I wonder if it's a problem with the imobiliser which is built into the instrument cluster. The clusters are known to fail but can be repaired for around £300

Hi Andreas. I have the app and it is very useful. I can't remember how I got it though. I have found the Audi Help line very helpful, I know others have not. I think the App is free. Tony

One tenth of Audi cost is a good result indeed.

You're welcome. Please keep us posted on how you get on 🙂

You're welcome. Thats a shame. If you put your reg or vin into parts websites you might find the correct one. Not sure how long you've had the car but if you've bought it within the last 30 days from a dealer then they should fix it free of charge as you're protected under consumer law. As you can reject the car for a full refund within the first 30 days from sale.

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂 sounds a nice A4 🙂

A bit more info for you mate. Efficiency mode is a mode designed to optimize fuel or electricity consumption and maximize mileage. In this mode, throttle response is subdued to reduce power consumption, and the AC system is put in ECO mode. Throttle, transmission, differentials, adaptive cruise control, and even climate control parameters can be managed to reduce mechanical resistance and improve efficiency. You can use Drive Select to pick Efficiency and get the most efficient group of settings, or use Drive Select to select Efficiency MODE, turn the car off and on, and you will get "Not Quite As Efficient Efficiency Mode".

Good idea on the rolling road, hadn't thought of that.

You're welcome, that I'm not so sure. You might find the issue won't be getting it down but getting it back up and sealing properly

To be honest I would avoid AliExpress for an important (and probably still quite expensive) part like that. I play guitar and some of the fake branded instruments I've seen people pay a few hundred quid for from that site have been truly shocking quality and not fit for purpose, so I can only assume you would be taking the same sort of risk with automotive parts. Now, if a guitar turns out to be an unplayable piece of junk that falls apart after a few months you end up looking stupid and out of pocket, if it's an important piece of equipment on your car the result could be far more serious, costly, and could land you in court even. You are FAR better off using EBay if you don't want to pay dealership prices in my opinion.

Congratulations on a successful repair.

That's such a kind offer. Hopefully someone will have them 🙂

Any comment Brad on the two replies you have received? I know you have seen them.

Have you tried eBay? Quite a few on there: https://ebay.us/m/Mrz7yY https://ebay.us/m/1LLkwS https://ebay.us/m/nKzHhi https://ebay.us/m/7URvWa

If you've authorised a third party app to access your car (via the Audi APIs) in order to set timers then that's likely to be the cause of the problem. This link should help. https://www.e-tronforum.com/threads/charge-timer-randomly-enables-itself.6994/

If this is the engine you have the red box is the electronic EGR control valve, the green box is the vacuum operated EGR cooling flap solenoid.