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Just re installed the old head unit. Unfortunately no change.

Not aware of specific OBD readers that will clear what is a very specific fault. VCDS will see it and you can clear the DTC. Side note, how old is the battery? These cars are sensitive to battery degradation, and wouldn’t put it past Audi not to have checked. A cheap multimeter is handy. Get AGM and code it to the car if it’s in any way suspect. For VCDS, you can get a 3-VIN package from Gendan for £222. Personally, get one with a case. What does that get you? Access to Rosstech software updates for life, update to OBD dongle on occasion. You just need a cheap laptop to run it on. Worth its weight in gold. https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VCV23NC.html

Most wiring for hatchback/coupe boot lids will enter the car near the hinge. Usually a rubber grommet, and not unheard of to have a break or some other anomaly there, so worth investigating. Regards the alarm horn, I’ll bet it had a failed rechargeable Ni-Cd battery in it and the previous owner stripped it out. More details here. https://www.ttforum.co.uk/threads/how-to-mk1-alarm-siren-fix.73315/ Getting the car connected to VCDS would help. If you’re chasing wiring diagrams, consider subscribing to ErWIN. You can buy access for a day and download or print what you need. https://audi.erwin-store.com/erwin/showHome.do

UPDATE… So. Having tried to zip in the replacement plastic window a few times I have concluded that the canvass of the soft top has contracted over time and so the zip of the replacement will never be long enough to mate to it properly. There’s not much in it, but enough to make me think I’ll have to abandon the idea The remaining low cost option would be to forget about the zip then glue and pin the plastic in place before sewing it in myself after the glue dried. Failing that, it’ll be off to the pros to replace the whole hood. I guess it is 26 years old!

The only thing I have had similar was that the cooling system was blocked on a 2017 passat, it ended up being the silika bag in the coolant bottle had burst, it blocked the matrix and the cooling system.

Untill the new wheels arrive, I have put the old ones back on. I am undecided on the color, but the new wheels are bronze so the black calipers may look OK.

I think I’ve fixed it! I noticed that the option to deactivate the digital key in the MMI settings was greyed out (I guess because there was no digital key setup). So I re-added the digital key to my phone and was then able to deactivate it in the MMI. So now, whilst I now have the digital key in my iPhone’s wallet, it doesn’t work by me just walking up to the car and opening the door. And also, once in the car, I am no longer getting the message to set up a digital key.

Hello Dave, Worth placing a wanted advert in magazines such as Classic Car Weekly and similar publications. Also registering your want on on line car breaker websites such as Partsfinder - there are more. Kind regards, Gareth.

Jumps out of gear and "Gearbox Malfunction" appears on dash. Sometimes works for a little while before this happens. Scanned with VCDS and I am getting 20888 - Pressure Control Solenoid 1 - P0748 error. I have replaced the ATF, motor, filters and all the solenoids. Does anyone have any experience with these.. could the TCU be faulty or is there another hardware element within the ATU which could be at fault. -- VCDS OUTPUT -- Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 0CJ-927-156.clb Control Module Part Number: 4G0 927 153 L HW: 0CK 927 156 Q Component and/or Version: 0CK 20TDI RdW H01 0002 Software Coding: 100001 Work Shop Code: WSC 02391 785 00200 ASAM Dataset: EV_TCMDL382021 002014 (AU57) ROD: EV_TCMDL382021_AU57.rod VCID: 323AC2AFE4A6AE7A99F-8066 1 Fault Found: 20888 - Pressure Control Solenoid 1 P0748 00 [10101111] - Electrical Malfunction MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Priority: 1 Fault Frequency: 8 Mileage: 332432 km Date: 2000.00.00 Time: 00:00:00 Engine RPM: 0 /min Driving position: d ATF temperature: 14 ∞C Transmission output speed: 0 /min Voltage terminal 30: 12.7 V Engine torque: 0 Nm selected gear: N Ctrl. mod.: operating condition: regular operation Auxiliary pump for transmission: requesting function: Fill hydraulic press. accum. Auxiliary hydraulic pump for transmission oil: current: 4 A Oil pressure reservoir: pressure: 0.7 bar Pressure of clutch 1: actual value: 0.0 bar Pressure of clutch 2: actual value: 0.0 bar Clutch status: New Unlearning counter according OBD: 40 Occurrence_counter_over_length_of_life: 206 -- Thanks!!

Hi Due to the fact that the radio did not fit I have sent it back, so can't really say about the sound quality. Sorry.

Hello there, I owned an A class 250e from 2021 which I later on swapped for the A3 45 TFSIe and both made this exact same noise. Both were used cars when I bought them but my service car at work is a 330e from 2024 brand new and it started making the exact same noise after a couple of months. It must be debris that get into the breaking pads. If you clean the breaking pads the noise will stop for a while but it will eventually come back. I drive all the cars on EV mode most of the time but if I turn the engine on its barely noticable.

Hi all, I’ve got a weird one. My locking confirmation via horn doesn’t work, the option is enabled properly on the dash but it just doesn’t want to work. It hasn’t worked since I got the car (February) but I do really want this feature haha. I’ve seen a few things about coding it in via vcds, but since this option is already displayed in my dash I shouldn’t need to bother with that right? The possible clues I have is my alarm siren doesn’t work (has been replaced in an attempt to fix it, but since the confirmation is via horn it shouldnt affect it?) and the rear doors have that age old vag problem where they dont open from the outside after unlocking the car, but opening from the inside and then shutting the door will allow you to open it from the outside until the next time you lock it. Really hoping someone can hit the nail with this one!

Hello guys my 25 Audi a6 40 TDi ( C8.5 ) has just done 4500 miles and the oil low message has popped up . is this one from Costco compatible with my engine ? Thanks in advance !

Thanks for this. Seems like it's the only option to get at the bolts behind the hub!

Thanks for the reply, I'll give it a go if can't find a drain somewhere

Check the earthing of the lamp unit.

Nice! Subtle mods for the win 😎

Not heard of the sunroof cracking, I have heard that you can't have side steps, sunroof and a towbar due to the weight limits.

Picked up as 3rd owner 2 months ago so cannot be sure - no apparent evidence of damage or misalignment though. Door latch seems to operate as normal when door is open position and tested with key lock and interior/exterior handle. As mentioned though - soft close mechanism does not make any noise even when door is closed “fully”

HI, I'm having a similar issue on my B7 and this seems to be a thread that is looking at similar issues, so I hope you don't mind me hopping on it! So today randomly by reverse beeping cut out. It may be unconnected but it happened shortly after connecting my phone to bluetooth (I disconnected it a couple of years ago as I was going to sell the car, but never got around to that, and never got around to reconnecting bluetooth!) I've checked and reverse lights come on, so I believe that means the reverse switch is working. When put in reverse, I can feel vibration on each of the four reverse sensors. But there is no beep, not even a beep at the start to tell you that you have selected reverse. Does anyone have any ideas of what to test to narrow this down. Or alternatively, what do you check on VCDS (I have an old copy somewhere!) Thanks in advance to any assistance!

Hi, I'm using EBC yellow at the minute, I've bought mintex 1801 as replacements. Have I made the wrong choice?

We are taking our A3 Convertible 2017 (facelift) to France in a few weeks and I am unable to find out if the headlamps auto adjust (as they do on our 2022 A4). I have found some info which suggests that this is dependent on whether they are LED or Xenon with turning lights. However, this info also refers to an adjuster found in the vehicle settings in the MMI. I have checked, and there is nothing in the MMI. A/Will the lights auto adjust? B/ If not, do they need to be adjusted by a dealer, or is it possible to put headlamp deflectors on. If anyone has experience with this, please let me know. Thanks for your help.

Hi All Hopefully some one will already have tried and found the answer to this question. We have recently bought a Q5 with Tech pack pro. This includes a B&O sound system. We are having a bit of bother getting our I phones to stay connected so I wondered if a USB memory stick with music on could be a music source? ( We are also having a bit of bother getting connected to the UTR system, but that will be another post). I believe I have read elsewhere that the system does allow for this and will play back FLAC files. If so, what file system should be used when formatting the USB drive? Perhaps it doesn't matter? Look forward to your replies and sorry if it has been asked before. Andy

I'm also concerned about leaving it too long I'm assuming wherever the oil is coming from is going ro run out at some stage

The screen came back on once I put the Telephone fuse back in - so no further forward. I used VCDS and removed the telephone from the list of devices installed in the car, which is weird it was there since I don't have a phone. Received my MMI screen today, used from a 2009 car. I have the bronze gears, so I think I'll put those on the mechanism since it's put of the car. I think I'll tackle that at the weekend. Thanks for the encouragement. I have no idea how my current screen is mounted to the dash, it seems to be stuck at the top underneath of the dash. This should be fun..