Latest Posts

Hello Martin, Thanks for joining and placing your detailed advertisement. Only thing that’s missing is the price you want for it. We seriously avoid ‘offers’ to minimise both buyers and sellers being messed around. I will amend your advert if you post the price on a second post. I will also remove your e-mail contact - this is an open to all forum - and replace it with ‘Please PM me if of interest. Regards, Gareth.

Hi all, I have bought my wife a 2019 Audi TT RHD which she loves. I wanted to transfer the car cam from her old car to the Audi but I cant find the fuse box in the car. The manual says in the RHD model the fusebox is hidden behind a panel in the back of the glovebox but there doesnt seem to be a panel as shown in the manual. Is there a panel that can be removed to get to the fuses or alternatively has anybody installed a car cam with an alternative connection for power and what is the most convenient way to install it please? I dont fancy having a dangling cable into a power socket in the dash. many thanks Frank

Hi everyone, After standing for a couple of weeks the car will not start. It turns over normally, no trouble codes are present so trying to trouble shoot the fueling. Tracked down the fuel pump relay to the left hand plenum electrical box ( relay part no: 8Z0 951 253 ) If I bridge pins 30 and 87 (thick red and green ) the fuel pump runs, pumping around half a litre in a few seconds at the fuel filter. The thin red/blue has 12v on it when the ignition is on, from what I red the ECU should apply a ground for a few seconds to the red/white wire. Checking the relay unplugged with 12v across the 2 thin wires ( pins 85 and 86 ) the relay works, connecting the green and red ( pins 30 & 87 ) . I guess this points to the ECU not suppling the earth when it should .. my question is do u think it is safe to apply an earth to red/white to test this theory? I did try cranking the motor with the fuel pump running ( pins 30 & 87 bridged ) but the motor didn't fire so perhaps there are further problems? Any thoughts or suggestions warmly received... Cheers John

The MMI screen in my 2017 A3 (8V??) won't go up anymore. For a while it's been making a weird noise sometimes when the car starts and the screen is moving up as the system starts up. It seemed to be a mechanical noise, like something was rubbing against something, or a gear with grinding, but it was really hard to pinpoint. Also, not my daily driver, so I often forgot that it happened. Now the screen comes on, but doesn't rise out of the dash. I was able to remove it from the dash and see the screen working, and the whole time bluetooth audio and radio have been functioning while the screen is stuck in the down position. I've checked all the fuses that referenced "Infotainment Components" in the manual. Oddly "F16" which is marked as "infotainment components" was missing from the fuse box completely. I can only assume it was always missing. I did temporarily put a 10-amp fuse in there in case it had fallen out somehow, but the screen still didn't rise. If I can't get the screen to go up and down like it's supposed to, I'd be happy to have it up permanently. Does anyone have a suggestion for either: Something else to check, maybe there is an oddly labelled fuse that might still be connected to the screen operation or Any ideas on how to get the screen to go up? I did think that it would be possible to just supply power to the motor that's stuck on the back of the screen assembly. Maybe that would spin and raise the screen. I don't hear any noises like the screen is trying to rise up out of the dash. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

All I can suggest is an Audi dealer or Ebay, but your mechanic probably has more idea than me where to buy the parts he needs.

I'm trying to resolve an issue with the drivers seat not heating. I have error code 01854 after scanning with VCDS. Has anyone had their seat apart to try and resolve this, which I assume is a broken wire in the heating mat? I'm currently going through the wiring diagram, but having an issue finding one of the connectors. The one in question is T8c, an 8-pin connector under the drivers seat, which I can't find. I can find the 2-pin T2aa and the 6-pin T6e one, but can't check for continuity as I can't find T8c. There are four wires wrapped in tape that disappear into the foam base of the seat, and I was wondering if the 8-pin plug is hidden in there. I'd rather have someone confirm that if possible before I start pulling the entire base apart to get access to it. I've checked the continuity of the heating mat in the backrest and that appears fine.

Yes I did no joys unless u have the more rounded rear bumper b8 which I don't have

Please let us know how you get on Dev.

Hi its overdue for a change as the sensible rule adhered to by most independent garages is 80,000 or four years whichever comes first, did that with my daughters Q3 and that made 247,000 before she sold it, good aftermarket kits are GATES OR DAYCO. Steve.

This is from Alvadi site. Check using your VIN for correct parts. Gasket Set, automatic transmission ELRING 821.560Item code: AL48264973

I don't believe you will have the the luxury of selecting a "good home" for a 27 year old car that has not been used for a couple of years. It will be a case of accepting what anyone will offer.

Apologies for the delay Karl, Yes, generally the old 18k oil change interval. Fine for the first few years, but from there on….? Has the stop/start been used during your ownership? If so, this can be a serious aggravator. I fear your only realistic way forward would be to try to find an engine from an accident damaged vehicle. Listing your want on one of the on-line car breaker link sights maybe a starting point. Partsfinder is one of many. Regards, Gareth.

It seems Alan would rather end his forum membership than reply publicly, so I can now reveal he tried to engage me in private correspondence about his wheel shake problem, and did not like being directed back to the forum.

Restrict use of the car until Monday and get OEM part from Audi, otherwise you’ll brick your ABS system is my advice.

Have had all three. Projector halogen in B5 A4 2.5TDI Quattro, no headlight washers. Bi-xenon in B8 A4 Allroad with headlight washers and LED rear, and now B9 A4 Allroad with LED front and rear, that ironically has headlight washers (in bumper) but was never fitted from factory. I’m planning to retrofit. Halogen and xenon generate heat, LED doesn’t, hence requirement for washers. Suspect the headlight washer bumper flap is for those that request it as extra or LED Matrix which I think is available on top of range Vorsprung. Upgrading lights is never straight forward. Minimum is you will need VCDS for coding, and parts need to be new as usually have security protection.

Do you have to use their app? My wife has a BMW i3 that has onboard computer that can delay charging. We recently switched electricity providers (don’t ask me who) as we have solar and battery storage. The 7kWh wall charger is currently out of action until an electrician tests the cable. It’s been on from 2018 but I suspect it needs a new tethered cable as works intermittently. In the meantime she can use 13A granny charger or a public charger. Cheap tariff is midnight to 6.00am. The new electricity provider wants us to use their custom app. However the car has its own software to delay charging, so we use that. It’s also intelligent enough to start charging earlier if need be as 13A will take longer compared to 7kWh. Granted, some of this power is outwith low tariff but that’s fine as we have battery storage. My point is, does Audi have this interface, rather than use the app which has to work across multiple car platforms?

Hey My 04' 3.2 A3 decided to shed it's clutches in the DSG, 113k miles or so done well for 3 years. I decided to call it a day, I spent enough time and money on it. I have replaced it with a 2008 SE 3.0tdi, what difference, so much better than the 16plate Passat I had to scrap, and about 50bsteps better than the A3, Had a few issues but that's why I managed to get it so cheap. I know but cheap buy twice but this isn't the case. I do have a couple of issues that need resolved First is the rear brakes, needs disc's and pads, needs an under tray, which I've purchased a metal Scut Protection replacement, the inner rear tail lights which were bought refurbished from China. The last thing to do is a oil and filter service.

Well it has taken Audi 20 months, but out of the blue they have finally delivered the towbar for my S5 Avant - which I wanted and enquired about at day one! Cambridge Audi have the car and are fitting it today and tomorrow. Having had great success using my old S4 Avant for towing on occasions when I needed to move one of my old cars on a trailer, I partly chose the S5 for its high towing capacity - but for the last year and 8 months I have had to rent a truck instead because Audi could not supply (though they have been fitting them on the production line all this time). The cost is a little under £2,000 fitted, which is pretty steep, but you can't fit an aftermarket one (e.g. from Witter) because apparently it will not be compatible with the software! I had a detachable Witter one on my S4 and naively thought I didn't need to wait 4 or 5 months for a special order S5 with Audi towbar from the factory. Supposedly the software does clever things, like not jamming on the brakes when you try to reverse with this vehicle (i.e. trailer) detected by the radar as an object you are about to hit! We'll see, though I don't know when I will next have to use it as I have sold the car I most often had to transport. Still waiting for the next (4th) software update to solve outstanding gremlins. And need to replace all the tyres - worn out after just 11,000 miles. I used to get 25,000 to 30,000 miles from the S4's tyres. Good to hear you are all enjoying yours. I do too, mostly, but in more sober moments realise I would have been better to buy the Volvo alternative.

So what ‘debris’ are you looking to remove from what part of the exhaust Neil? A photo would be helpful. Regards, Gareth.

Whatever else you do or get concerned about, please make sure you insure this car on an agreed value basis, otherwise you certainly will lose money.

Please PM me if interested.

i have been away in asia for work. The car is now ready for a new owner as im looking at a car this week. Nothing has changed apart from new spark plugs and a battery

Oh dear Russell, Hindsight is a wonderful thing, but you have just demonstrated that lowering an already low vehicle is impractical. Anyone car only guess at the reason for the now non start issue without inspecting the car, but you can possibly hang on to the hope it is something relatively simple such as a dislodged sensor etc. A photo of the extent of the damage to the sump might aid other ideas. Please keep us up to speed on developments, and meanwhile wish you all the good luck we hope you won’t need. Regards, Gareth.

Hello again Luke, It is evident you have returned to the forum a couple of times ( last about 20 hrs ago), but seem intent on not updating the forum on your current situation. Could you please have a read of ‘New members please read’ which you would have had access to when you joined, and then come back with the latest update. Thanks, Gareth.

My Audi A6 C7 has no power to the MMI screen. What I’ve checked so far is as follows: 1. 1. fuse. Ok 2. Done the reset. 3. Opened the dash board checked the blue/red and brown power connector, no power. 3. Peeled back the soft cable cover to the screen to check wires for damage. The red/blue had slight damage. Cut and soldered, still no power. Now I’m really in a pickle. The radio, media, Bluetooth all work fine. It is just not getting power to light up the screen. Any ideas?