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Thank you, it’s already in the garage tomorrow for a faulty top shock mount, so I’ll get him to check it out Linda

Hi good shout, pictures always make the imagined part more realistic and potentially more attractive to people who are chasing the same problem. Steve.

Hi I hate to tell you this but transmission fluid does get very hot despite not being part of the combustion process, its called kinetic friction the base material is the same as engine oil but is heavily refined to a point where its thinner and has more of a propensity towards a hydraulic state then additives are employed to enhance the hydraulic properties as well as the rapid cooling properties of the fluid, after a suitable period or milage the additives break down and via the heat from the gear meshing and being pressurised through small detent valves the fluid looses its viscosity and also changes colour, it has nothing to do with abusers driving the car to hard, its all to do with ambient temperatures over a given time or milage, do you think that would be a selling point in a dealers, sorry sir you can't drive this 400hp flying machine fast for any length of time because you might wear the gearbox fluid out. Engine oil is a completely different product although it comes from the same base product its additives are designed in such a way to protect internal components and the additives involved allow it to do this at a much higher thermal grade whilst absorbing the moisture from the combustion process along with the carbon within that water, sorry but its a one way street, the engine wont burn sump oil unless your oil rings are knackered in which case it will kill your catalytic converter in record time as engine oil when exposed to super heat will crack and revert back to hard carbon unless its fully synthetic in which case it just coats the cat core in a slime that totally negates the function of the precious metals such as palladium which convert the harmful gases in the exhaust stream.

It is a pity the problem is not the flywheel because flywheels are cheaper than gearboxes to replace. A new gearbox is going to be horrendously expensive, while a secondhand box is going to be a lottery in terms of condition. I suggest you look for a company to restore your existing gearbox. It's been decades since I had a gearbox rebuilt so I don't know of a company to point you to, but a quick internet search revealed several in the UK.

Fixed. Car was in and out within 2 hours! Happy that it's now locked down.

Hi Andy thank you for the update it gives the forum value and continuity. Steve.

I have a 17 plate A7 3.0 TDI (272) motorway was getting 40 to 45mpg on local roads closer to 25 to 30mpg. Had a stage 1 mid map (320bhp) now getting 30 all day long on local roads but motorway now sitting at a comfy 50 to 55mpg driving at 65 to 75. Extra oomph is a bonus when needed.

Will be too late now to arrange a stand.

Done

Hi all, im not looking for assistance im logging my warranty issue here for those who may have a similar issue for assistance/ diagnosis. vehicle effected: MY2023 40 TDi Quattro, 10,127 miles. symptom: vehicle displays drive system fault randomly at no given reason performing attribute causing vehicle to go into limp mode. Turning the car off and on again resolves limp mode. Extremely poor MPG (average 34mpg combined driving). Cause Fault codes: relate to air mass flow sensor recording incorrect parameters causing vehicle to go into limp mode. (Code to follow) additional fault code: relate to ‘reductant System’ ad-blu pump flow rate too low or ineffective. diagnosis verdict: warranty claim, replacement mass air flow sensor and pump. Concern is the car is trying to compensate for emissions out the exhaust as a result causing the air intake parameters to adjust outside of the required normal numbers. For good measure the dealership has decided to replace both as the indication for the air sensor has been two occasions where the car has broken down as a result of this fault code (recorded by Audi assist).

Just realised I posted this in the 8p forum. Can a moderator swap this to the 8v section please ? thanks

Re the rear brakes, have you noticed excessive brake dust build up on either/both rear wheels? This can be an indication of a binding caliper. maybe raise the rear wheels and see if the wheel/wheels rotate freely without too much binding. if the caliper is binding badly you will notice the brake disc becoming hot after a run.

Hi Gareth, Yes, very similar issue. Audi A3 Sportback (8PA)1.6 2013. Keep getting ESC Traction Control & ABS lights coming on intermittently and car juddering and sometimes cutting out. Sometimes it just clears itself. Sometimes it's fine and sometimes it just doesn't start. I have OBD Eleven so can get fault codes etc. It is actually my daughters car but she got fed up and bought a new one. Plan is that i have it as it better than mine. Not really looked at it much, just picking up tips from this forum. All i have done to date is changed 1 Wheel Sensor.

Hello Wendy, Welcome, and sorry to hear of your issue. This just isn’t acceptable. Have you tried a search on here for ‘pre sense’? I’m sure there is a thread going on it. If it were mine, I would be threatening ( in writing) to reject the vehicle. Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi sorry to be the bearer of bad tidings but definitely not.

Hi in theory that would bring the whole lot right down as the S Line is 25mm lower than standard, not sure how much extra strain will be put on the bushes on the suspension itself but best policy would be get it on a old fashioned hydraulic ramp after fitting spring and with the car at its ride height slacken off the bush locking bolts and then re tighten, then get the alignment done on a Hunter 4 wheel alignment system to adjust the castor and camber to prevent erratic tyre wear. Steve.

Looking for some advise noticed a humming noise at motorway speed only wen I press accelerator but only between 50 and 60 but noise goes away wen I let off its not a turbo or bearing noise

Hi All, I'm after some help with my front bumper. I was parked in Asda and it looks like someone has backed into my a4 and smashed the grille. Bumper/bonnet looks fine and the front crash bar is okay. Luckily they have just caught it above that. Would anyone happen to know the part number for the black edition grille. I've read that the 2019 BE have the same grille as the same year S4. I've found one on Ebay that look similar, but just can't confirm if it's the correct one. Thanks very much in advance for any help. 🙂

Mine was the windscreen.

Thank you very much for your help

Welcome to the forum you'll find the members on here are a friendly and helpful bunch 🙂

Glad you got sorted 🙂

You're welcome 🙂 Not a daft question at all. If it were mine I'd change any gaskets whilst the parts a disassembled. You wouldn't want any leaks after you put it back together.

Hi Steve That was my next investigation, would I need a computer to turn off ESP light or do simply change the wheel sensors. As always I'll keep you in the loop. Cheers mate Dale

I had a similar problem where the front wipers would only work when the car was moving, rear wiper nothing and high beam not functioning (high beam flash would though) thought the bonnet switch lock but wasn’t that After checking fuses found no power before one fuse forget exactly which one. So fed power via another and everything worked fine (still has fuse protection) So in my case must be a wiring fault somewhere.