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Loss of stop/start and radio presets are typical of a dying battery. Get it tested on deep discharge equipment, and if a new battery is needed get it coded to the car.

Hi all, Hope everyone is well.. i have had a problem over the past week with my a3 2.0 tdi sportback. To cut a long story short, drove out to bath for an appointment, had the appointment and got back into the car to notice it wouldnt start first time. After several attempts and long cranks it started but seemed to be running lumpy on idle. Any suggestions please to what this could be?? Mileage is 94000. Many thanks.

Hi I just changed battery on my a4. I have put in a bosch battery without BEM Code. I programmed it with mucar tester, where I just changed the 3 last numbers. When i try to change the clock in the dash, a lot of fault coming i the dash, when the computer have shown all the failures, they Are gone, and Will first Come back when i push the SET button Again.... It comes with a faulure l2 4/4 at the trip spot. See picture I have tried to remove the minus for 10 minutter, and delete the failures with odb. But the failure keeps coming...... What to do?

Got VCDS figures now if any help: Engine off car not used in over 2hrs Voltage (Terminal 30) 12.10V Battery Current -4.6A Battery State (of charge SoC) 62% Battery Ageing (Derived fr.Load) 54% Battery Ageing (Derived fr.Output) 51% Internal Battery (Resistance-Actual) 5.4 mOhm Battery Cpacity (actual/available) 25.Ah Engine On Voltage (Terminal 30) 13.50V Battery Current 12v Battery State (of charge SoC) 62% Battery Ageing (Derived fr.Load) 54% Battery Ageing (Derived fr.Output) 51% Internal Battery (Resistance-Actual) 5.4 mOhm Battery Cpacity (actual/available) 25.Ah

this sounds like one of the flap actuators. I’ve had 2 audi a3’s and both have had this issue. Very annoying problem. If you have an obd 11, give it a scan and it should tell you if your flap motor is bad.

Hi just try a gearbox reset that may well help with this, having the DPF cleaned won't affect the gearbox, normally after a gearbox service they do a reset so all the mechatronics can relearn its values. Steve.

Hi All, Car : 2015 A5 2.0lt 150hp Couple of issues so far. Had car around 3 weeks, had ATF & Filter changed Friday as history shows last change 40,000, car has 98,000 on it Particle filter warning came on dash, took car for spin down motorway but couldent get it start regen, but cleared code and checked soot levels via VCDS and seem ok Other day I disconnected negative terminal in battery to do full system reset, all went well until this morning, start car and get ECS fault, test battery at terminals eng off, 15.7v, engine on rises to 17v Should I fully disconnect battery to try again or does it sound like battery issue just got VCDS but not sure how would test battery with it. Will say previosult start/stop was disabled when started car, after batt disconnect start/stop was auto enabled until this ECS fault, after I cleared that start/stop is again auto disabled (fine by me), not sure if related. Update, used VCDS to clear fault, and been out in car and fault not come back on, but strangly lost some DAB radio stations normally listen to. Oh 1 other thing, when took on motoway when I used the flappy paddle to drop gear, it would only hold gear few secs before going back into normal auto mode ie. D/S depending.

I wouldn’t bother changing the oils in the diffs and transfer box, they’ll be like new. Certainly at that low mileage.

Hi everyone, I have a 2013 Audi A4 B8.5 Avant 2.0 TDI 177PS quattro with the 7-speed S tronic gearbox. I would like to ask for some opinions from people who have experience with this drivetrain. The main thing I notice is that on A-road/main road driving, especially around 55–70 mph (90–110 km/h), the gearbox sometimes seems to hunt between 6th and 7th gear. It mostly happens with small throttle changes, slight inclines, or when I try to maintain a steady speed around 60–65 mph (roughly 100 km/h). It feels like the car is not fully sure whether it wants to stay in 7th for economy or drop back to 6th for more torque. If I drive a bit more positively or at motorway speeds, the car feels great. Above about 70 mph (110 km/h) it is smooth, stable and the gearbox feels much more natural. The issue is mostly in that light-load cruising zone on main roads. There are no warning lights and no gearbox fault messages. When I bought the car, the gearbox behaviour bothered me more, but a throttle/pedal reset seemed to improve it quite a lot. Later the S tronic oil service was also done, and that improved the overall feel as well. At the time I was told that this is more or less normal behaviour for this gearbox/drivetrain, so I accepted it. The car also recently had a professional DPF cleaning/refitting job done. No DPF removal or performance remap as far as I know, just cleaning and related work. I am not sure if this is relevant, but I thought I should mention it in case DPF condition, regeneration behaviour, engine load, ECU adaptation/reset, or torque request could have any influence on how the gearbox decides between 6th and 7th. The gear hunting itself was not completely new after the DPF work, but I have started paying more attention to it recently. I also sometimes notice a slight bump/jerk in stop-and-go traffic when accelerating with the queue and then lifting off the throttle to let the car slow down on engine braking. It is not a huge bang, but it can be felt as a drivetrain knock/torque reversal. It seems worse in situations where the car is crawling and the throttle is applied and released repeatedly. My questions are: Is this 6th/7th gear hunting around 55–70 mph (90–110 km/h) normal for the DL501/S tronic in a 2.0 TDI quattro? Could this be mostly gearbox calibration/normal behaviour, or should I suspect adaptation, engine/gearbox mounts, drivetrain play, mechatronics, clutch adaptation, etc.? Could DPF condition/regeneration/ECU adaptation have any effect on this kind of light-load gear hunting, or is that unlikely? Would a proper S tronic adaptation/basic setting with VCDS or ODIS be worth doing, or is it better not to touch it if there are no faults? For those with similar cars, how does your gearbox behave around 60–65 mph (around 100 km/h) in D mode on slight inclines or with small throttle changes? Is there anything specific I should check before worrying about the gearbox itself? I am not looking to immediately rebuild the gearbox or overreact, I just want to understand whether this is normal S tronic character or something that should be investigated further. Any experience with A4/A5/Q5 B8/B8.5 2.0 TDI or 3.0 TDI quattro S tronic cars would be appreciated. Thanks!

Fair enough Chris. I needed to make sure. I can't help regarding an upgraded clutch, but if professionals (if that is what Unicorn are,) recommend a standard unit I would go with that. If the original standard clutch has lasted 16 years it has done well, so a similar replacement should last the realistic lifetime of the car.

A pity you did not mention that earlier to save wasting our time. Error codes always have to be interpreted in the light of experience, rather than taken literally. So it was not flippancy to ask for them as you wrongly assumed, rather it was an attempt to get some of the basic information which you initially failed to provide. In view of your attitude I shall not add any more to this discussion, even though I have a strong suspicion about the cause of the problem. Good luck.

Hey. Thanks for the response. So the car was mapped and modded by unicorn and puts out 428 lb ft. Unicorn stated an OEM clutch so LUK can handle that, so was going to fit a standard clutch and flywheel. To be clear my partner cooked my clutch on a hill, it's not because I've been track day/heavy abuse etc. Clutch is slipping now so I can get an OEM so LUK clutch kit and flywheel fitted locally but was wondering seen as it's being done anyway what are my recommended options for uprated clutch kit and flywheel etc and is this absolutely necessary given what unicorn said.

Sorry, yes, there was a good reason I didn’t return to the forum…I sold my A3 shortly after, as a result of not being able to resolve this issue and a few other problems I was having. Main dealer tried multiple times, and recommended I try a third party auto electrician. My suspicion was a weak/broken DAB antenna, as I assumed the GPS signal was also received through that. Or a software issue. Figured the main dealer would have caught both of those issues, though, so I really don’t know. Sorry I can’t be of any help, Dan. It’s put me off of VAG cars completely, after only driving them for 20 odd years.

Hi the idea of publishing the codes you have is to narrow down the components that may be causing this, you say that the vehicle was laid up for two years and you have blown two HPFPs therefore I would suggest that the high pressure side is in overrun which is eminently checkable on live data, my guess is that its the fuel pressure regulator playing about, this meters the fuel pressure within the rail and is electro mechanical therefore it can stick slightly and cause insufficient fuel to the rail causing flat spots or stick wide open and the HPFP tries to keep up with what it thinks is demand, the return system just loses what it won't use, using live data check the rail pressure at idle and then through the rev range and see if the figures add up, don't know what the rail pressures should be ideally on the DETA engine you have but I know if the lift pump in the tank is high around 600lpm you have a problem further up. Steve.

Hi Gareth, Thanks for that, I'll try PM. How's your Audi? Dan

I apologize if I came across rude. However often times over the years I've found some less than helpful people think they are helping by saying just run the diagnostic scan and basically don't bother us until you've done such. It's an obvious statement that helps no one. However the diagnostic scan can be both very telling and very misleading. As for the diagnostic scan, of course several have been done and it is kicking out every bad fuel pump code and fuel related code and then some. Nothing that would narrow down the problem. From misfires, to running lean to it doesn't matter as we know the fuel pump isn't happy and none of the codes has led us to a fix and believe me we've chased every code down. In my instance I have what they are referring to as a "New engine" it probably didn't come down the official Audi line and might have a few remanufactured or aftermarket parts. I'm not here to quibble but it sure is pretty and appears to have never been used. All I know is it was bench tested and fired up and run before it was shipped and my problems do not indicate the engine itself to be the problem. So hence the problem. How do I find someone to respond to my question with something other than a flippant read the codes response who couldn't even be bothered with reading the detailed words I wrote (the person I responded to is obviously not going to be the person to be able to provide any meaningful help) I know we all want to help, but sometimes posting when you don't know much can actually derail a discussion and get in the way of getting the very real problem solved. I guess I'm posting and looking for someone and people input that can say hey that's weird and here is how I overcame something similar. It might be when my buddy installed an engine this is what was done wrong or we overlooked that other thing that then gave codes and caused the fuel pump to not work right. Cars are complex unfortunately codes are not always the holy grail solution that weekend backyard mechanics think they are. What happened to being able to have a meaningful conversation and discussion sharing of experiences etc. without being fixated on code reading.

Hello Dan, The OP has not returned to the forum since a few days after he joined. It would probably be better to send him a PM, in the hope he retains the same e-mail contact. Regards, Gareth.

Following the sale of our A3, I have a pair of new Febi curved rear suspension link arms (not handed) for sale. These fit a range of years, and models, from A1 to Q3 and even TTs. Cheapest prices on EBay for non Febi are around £23 each. £25 + p&p will be accepted for the pair, and I will throw in a set new anti roll bar rubber bushes and saddles - current price £17.50. Curved rear links arms are Febi 32543. Anti roll bar kit is Febi 23606. These will also fit many Skodas, Seat and VW models. Please check EBay for suitability for your car. Please PM me if interested. Regards, Gareth.

Hello Marsden1206 I seem to have the same issue with my A5. Did you find an answer on here please? Cheers The Mint

Well you would say that wouldn't you. You may not even be aware of possible malware, so sorry again, but I am not going to watch it. I suggest a decent photograph uploaded to the forum with your reply. The forum software will eliminate most nasties or prevent uploading.

Hi the engine could well have been new or classed as such under American consumer law despite being classed as refurbished in the U.K. , the other key bits of information such as milage of the original unit would affect the value of bolting well worn parts on to a new bare unit, my suspicion is someone has used a faulty/old gasket in the system or fitted parts incorrectly, this particular poster seems very reticent to provide answers to simple questions that are simple building blocks towards diagnosis, why these people come to this forum requesting help and then abuse the person trying to help is beyond me, they expect a solution with the minimum of Information and then throw their toys out of the pram when they don't get what they want to hear, he has probably run out of sites to abuse in the states, so now its our turn, lucky us. Steve.

Hi tried to watch the video but it won't play maybe a photo would be better? Steve.

The video is fine to watch its from my phone! Nothing dodgy but many videos are saying its a flange but i feel its a pipe video really helps

Are you really looking for an upgrade, which implies a performance clutch able to handle upgraded engine power, or do you mean a standard clutch at lower than LUK prices? Sorry to ask but some folk here think upgraded equals renewed.

Hey. First time posting here. Looking for manual B8 S4 owners clutch and flywheel upgrade recommendations. About to drop a painful amount on a LUK clutch and flywheel kit, running 430 lbft. has anyone had any good experiences with upgraded aftermarket clutches/flywheel upgrades in the U.K.? very little about what's available in the UK online as I know manual S4's are pretty rare. Thanks in advance.