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Still no success as yet. I’m trying different people but no solution so far.

This is interesting I hadnt heard about this untill now. The issue will be the modified car parts scene will nosedive and I believe this brings in a good amount to the tax man every year through vat etc. I'm not condoneing illegal mods by the way, just stating the impact on last revenue from vat and then income tax/corporation tax etc if businesses close down.

Lovely looking car. I'd definitely recommend getting it to an auto electrician to resolve this. I appreciate it's out of warranty from the dealer you bought it from but assuming it's a jap car import specialist it might be worth seeing if hey can resolve it. Just in case they need to speak to any specific contacts in Japan if it's a Japan only version. The rattling could be the under tray coming loose or a heat shield coming loose.

Hi - my A6 C8 2.0 diesel has started throwing a “Drive system fault: contact workshop” error - it’s happened around four times in the last week. First three when using cruise control - which is knocked off and can’t be used once the error appears. The latest time error appeared when in normal driving. After stopping and restarting the error clears. Doesn’t appear on every drive - sometimes more than 60 miles in. Stop start and intelligent coasting all appear normal. In every other respect the car seems to be driving normally. i’m away from home for the next few days with the car and will take to main dealer when i return. Thought I would see if anyone had any ideas/advice? Thanks

Hi everyone, new owner (since earlier this year) of a 2012 A6 Allroad 3.0TFSI, imported from Japan. Mechanically it's running like a dream - only 60k miles, full inspection and service carried out at Renn in Iver. I've also had a stage 2 tune from MRC, with IE air intake, APR coils, MRC supercharger pulley, ECU & TCU remap... all of which gives it a slightly ridiculous 494bhp. Unfortunately, it seems to have some electronic gremlins... First off the passenger wing mirror wouldn't fold out. Eventually got it out and have now just set the mirrors not to fold, problem solved! The next problem is a bit more inconvenient though, with the MMI system not starting up at all. It started as an intermittent thing, gradually becoming more regular and now has not worked at all for at least a month. The screen doesn't pop up, the button on the centre console don't light up... nothing. I've used fibre optic loops to isolate the various components int he boot, but no dice. Also tried the hard reset, but that does nothing either. Therefore, I'm assuming the head unit is the point of failure, unfortunately. I found a link with steps for reloading the firmware, but it seems a bit out of my comfort zone, so I'm resigned to the fact that replacement is needed. I'm guessing I need an Audi dealer to make it work once a new (second hand) one is installed. My real issue is knowing which units will work. Mine is 4G0 035 678 C which, I believe, is a Japanese specific version. Would I be ok using a (more easily available) UK version? Does anyone know which part codes would be compatible? Alternatively, is it worth going to an auto elec specialist to see if they can do anything with it? As a side note, I also have some rattling from underneath when I go over small bumps - I thought it was the small plastic covers behind each wheel, as they were very loose, but I've replaced those and the rattling remains. It doesn't seem like it's a direct suspension component as the rattles aren't entirely linked with bumps and/or suspension travel, but I could be wrong. Are there any "usual suspects" I should look at first? It would be easier to investigate this if I could get the MMi working and therefore change from dynamic to allroad mode and get better access underneath! Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Thanks for following this up Gareth.

Thanks Spartacus for continuing to help me. Both times the right rear caliper assembly was replaced it was the whole item including the EPB motor and its cable/connector. I had asked, the first swap, to just change the motor but was told this was a bad idea. I have both replaced calipers and they both have the motor etc. I remember the first main dealer also reported that they had swapped over the rear speed sensors, as these tell the ABS unit to change over from EPB to hydraulic braking at 7 km/h. But this made no change.

Okay, re-read the VCDS scan. Module J104 is indeed the ABS module, but the faults relate to the parking brake (right), specifically implausible signal and electrical failure. When the caliper was swapped out for a pattern part then genuine Audi, did it come with brand new plug and play EPB, or was the original EPB swapped over? ABS module seems unlikely, why just rear right, why not left? They are sensitive bits of kit, especially if they have been ‘jumped’ in a previous life to change pads with separate 12v source. VCDS has specific procedure for pad changing, plus it’s recommended to keep power to the battery with a trickle charge on pad swap over. This may or may not be useful, but I rebuilt the brakes on my B8 A4 Allroad. Audi don’t even stock parts for rebuild, apart from a caliper square seal and dust boot. Budweg kits (Autodoc) come with ‘o’ rings that seal the caliper splindle on both sides. This is what stops water ingress. You need long needle nose circlip pliers to swap out. If you’ve got a new Audi OE brake caliper, then this will be fine. However if old EPB was simply bolted on, who knows? It’s held on with Torx screws. Another open given you have VCDS is to post the log on RossTech forum if you haven’t already done so. Looked on LLL parts for the parking brake module but no luck. That’s not to say it isn’t there though. Appreciate that some models of A3 use the ABS module.

Are we going to get any feedback following Chris James’ advice then?

My thanks to all that responded to my initial query regarding the recommended life of the timing belt on my Q3. Your comments have been very useful. Despite Audi still sticking with their life of 186,500 miles or 15 years I'm going for something in the region of 6 years or 70,000 miles. I would rather spend £1500 +/- now than umpteen thousands in a few years. Subject now closed

Thank you both Stevey and Spartacus very helpful of you. Steven, I just downloaded my original VCDS attachment from this site and that scrolls OK, so who knows why yours won't; another gremlin! I have attached an idiot's guide I found on the EPB which does refer to the control module you referred to but I understand that on my A3 8V, an MQB platform vehicle, this module is integrated into the ABS ECU. The VCDS coding section for the EPB control unit is 53, but this does not appear in my VCDS log which supports the suggestion that the EPB function is now within the ABS ECU at 03 coding. AudiParkingBrake.pdf

Concur with Steve. Very frustrating. Given you're in £3k deep, absolutely nothing wrong with taking a closer look at the parking brake module. It lives under the central console behind the parking brake switch, etc. Copy of the section from VCDS, for reference. Just to be clear - when caliper was changed, was old EPB swapped over, or was the electric handbrake unit new too?

Many thanks.

I bought and fitted this https://amzn.eu/d/0hnwABjf into my 2016 Jap import (so no DAB) I’m still working my way around it but I’m happy with it so far. Took me about 3 hours to fit but if I did another it would probably be about an hour.

Too True.

Hi shame I can't read the posted scan as it won't scroll, maybe its me, you seem to have replaced most everything as per faithfully given advice which I would not concur with, A. what are called pattern/aftermarket callipers are actually refurbished O.E.units, there is no unlimited supply of new units, B, the ABS unit has nothing to do with the handbrake as that operates electromagnetically and requires no assistance from fluid generated by the ABS, you have replaced a loom component therefore in my humble opinion this and the replacement of the switch would lead me to consider the handbrake control module, you should consult an auto electrician before condemning the unit as they are not cheap and need coding in, the problem with these vehicles is the electrics are far to complex and unfortunately the dealers will string you along buying parts forever, its making them rich, they have a system called Odis which can test any part of the cars electrics and identify wiring/module faults but won't do that as its far more fun getting you to replace the car in bits. Steve.

Fair enough Brian, but most drivers don't have the inclination or the competence to change their own wheels, such is the level of the nation's mechanical inability. They just sit back and phone the AA or RAC.

A3 8V 2014 S line 1.8TFSI Electronic Parking Brake Fault Help please, all suggestions welcome. Some 2 years ago it started, just an occasional yellow parking brake symbol. The car would drive normally. Reading that a failing battery can be the cause, I had a new genuine Audi one fitted. Re-occurred. Local garage said right rear caliper error reported. New, pattern-part caliper fitted. Week or so later re-occurred. Taken to main-dealer, 4 times, for investigation. Suspected, but not proved, ABS ECU suggested. Had local garage send the ECU for testing for suspected intermittent fault. No fault found, so refitted. OK for a couple of weeks then re-occurred. Took care to different dealer, changed the wiring-loom to right rear caliper as suggested by ECU tester. No change, garage suggested pattern-part caliper the cause so genuine Audi one fitted. OK for 6 weeks then re-occurred. Had parking brake switch changed, no change. The fault never goes away by itself, when it is there, yellow flashing brake symbol and brake switch light flashing. Operating the switch most times does nothing and no noise from the brake motors. If start and drive, loud audible intermittent alarm, alternating yellow brake icon with red triangle icon and message "Parking brake is applied" and parking brake switch light flashing. Just occasionally operating the switch clears the fault and the motors can be heard working. I now am in the habit of never applying the brake (automatic so car won't move). But most times now, despite leaving the car without the brake applied, next time I use the car the yellow symbol, flashing brake switch light come before even starting the engine. Thankfully only twice have I found the brake actually applied and won't release. Some time later have been able to release it. I have tried a reset found on the web of applying the switch down for 7 seconds then up for 7 etc. Also tried battery disconnect. I have attached a full VCDS scan. After a battery, 2 caliper-assemblies and wiring-loom and over £3k, no further forward. An ECU would be over £2k. Help please, the alarm blaring away in the car is driving me mad. Love the car but..... Audi-A3-8V-Jul2026.txt

But whats to happen if you have a puncture, and the gash in the tyre is too great for the goo to seal it, and the wheel has to be removed ? I always go on the side of caution, I have a space saver, the jack, and wheel brace etc I already had in my garage. regards Brian.

Hi if the tank is the non round type you can remove the bag, if its the round double skinned type its in between the structure and you can't get at it. Steve.

Right, you now have to confirm your suspicion that the noise is from a belt driven components - but which one. A good start would be to use a rod type stethoscope, taking all safety and risk elements into consideration - probably wiser to entrust this to a garage. The offender should reveal itself. Regards, Gareth. Please note, worth emphasising the risks of this approach with an engine running at 3K revs. Just take it to a trusted garage. ( all in Caps).

But VAG don’t want you to remove any wheels Brian. Goo & compressor, and you are back on the road without any DIY wheel removing. Yes, I agree they should - and currently do - supply a LWNR, but could that become a victim of a future cost cut, and a move towards ‘no mechanical intervention allowed by owners’. Regards, Gareth.

That's risky. If the bag tears you will get silica gel crystals in the cooling system and likely need an expensive new heater matrix; whereas a new reservoir costs less than £20.

Why do you need forceps Phillip? Surely the intention is to remove your with-silica -bag reservoir, throw it away, and simply replace it with a new without-bag one. Regards, Gareth.

Thanks for that……I need some forceps