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Cliffcoggin - thanks for the reply - I absolutely hear what you're saying - and I know the car does need a new clutch (and DMF) since there's a slight judder (no slip) getting rolling - and that's likely to be exacerbating my problems. However (and I've taken it out for a test drive since my first posting) this is something tested statically with engine off and me hunting for the gate and being able to demonstrate clean gear engagement versus complete block-out of the gear depending on my approach to the gear stick. I'm absolutely not discounting your advice - it's the proper solution, but choosing to throw my head in the sand at the moment - a local price of £1500 for clutch/DMF is a bitter pill until I know if it passes an MOT in a couple of months time... low miles since recent retirement means a diesel may not be best suited for me. Again, thanks for your reply.

Mike. Although it's possible that the gear linkage needs adjusting, there is absolutely no point trying that if it is known the clutch is worn out. The inability to select some gears is typical of defective master or slave cylinders preventing the clutch from opening fully. I'd say your problem is centred on the clutch.

Thanks Jason, Opinions vary. ‘What exactly do you want me to reply to?’ Answer - Questions raised in the first 3 paragraphs of my post as asked an hour after your original request for help. Answers are more likely to generate the advice you asked for. Regards, Gareth.

Welcome Jerry, Common problem across many marques. I’ve used EBay aftermarket ones in the past and they have done what they supposed to do. Consideration;- originals have lasted 9 years, aftermarket are less than 1/10 of the cost, so if they last a year, you are quids in. What’s not to like? Could you please keep the forum updated on what you do, so that other members can benefit from your experience. Regards, Gareth.

Not sure if this should be a B8 or B9 forum post but here goes... 2016 plate 2.0 TDI avant with the DEUA engine - everything suggests closer to a B9 than B8 including my recent replacement undertray and 8W5 on the options card. When at rest with the gearbox in neutral I have on occasions struggled to get into 1st or 2nd gear. As I move to the left gate, then push up or down there's an absolute resistance. No meshing of gears or anything, but a physical lock on the gear stick. I can release and select 3/4 (or 5/6) with ease, but pulling away in 3rd is a little haphazard. Occasionally, I'll select reverse, instead of 1st, which is always entertaining at the traffic lights for me and the car behind. In these situations amongst the panic I will select neutral and then back to 1st and inevitably will reselect reverse. At the same time I'll try to remedy by going to 2nd, and that's usually locked out with the same mechanical block. This happened last night in a supermarket carpark as I'm reversing, and I'm nearing the end of my tether (the car needs expensive work including clutch/DMF.... and it's getting tired and at 10 years old I'm thinking of just driving into the ground. Anyway, this morning out of frustration, and having a session with ChatGPT I did try a few static tests. It's possible that I'm at fault here - if I analyse my behaviour I think I'm probably selecting the left gate and then pushing the gear stick in the 7 / 11 o'clock direction - i.e. a force applied laterally to the passenger side as well as pushing forward and backwards. If I consciously bias this way I can reproduce the fault (in fact I thought I'd completely lost 2nd until I worked out that I was applying the lateral force as well). Statically, both engine running an engine off I can reproduce not being able to select 1st and 2nd. Unsure if this is representative of my actual driving style, particularly if I'm panicking at the lights trying to get into 1st, but it's quite possible/probable. I'll know next time it happens. I hope. BUT, long story short, are there any adjustments, or (following the generalised advice from ChatGPT) any cable adjustment, or selector mechanism to be investigated for wear / adjusted to avoid this situation (/resolve the 1st/2nd gear selection)? I've seen YT videos of adjusting cables in the engine bay but never with a DEUA engine. ChatGPT suggests (and I sort of agree) this is likely a mechanical issue before it even hits the gearbox, and the engine-off test absolves the otherwise high mileage clutch/DMF.

On 2017 model Audi A5 Sportback, the electric rear tailgate struts are failing - once opened the tailgate starts drooping, and dropping down. I have been quoted £550 per strut which seems excessive. On line (non genuine, I guess), these can be picked up for a fraction of this (£50ish). Does anyone have any experience of these, and/or any recommendations on a reliable supplier?

What exactly do you want me to reply too? I thought personally one of the answer was rude and find this forum to be quite sparky, thats why I didnt answer, and your comment just strengthens my initial thoughts.

Hello again Jason, It is evident that you have revisited the forum on a number of occasions since you joined some 7 hours ago - the last just an hour ago. You say you are going to view the car the day after tomorrow, so do you have any problems which prevent you from responding to questions already asked, and which might help others to help you? Regards, Gareth.

Thanks for your help Steve, will do some more digging on a b9 door then!

Hi I am pretty certain the Avant door won't fit as the tops are different, the B9 door may well fit as they don't generally alter any dimensions for doors for a facelift. Steve.

Hi the tolerance for the adaption is plus or minus five degrees you don't state which engine you have, ergo chain driven means the chain has stretched or the tensioner is worn, if its belt driven it could well be the sensors or if its high milage the variation units could be clogged. Steve.

Just adding a bit more info- some independent vag dealerships can access sfd2 via the official odis coding software but charges are some £300 for access. This is to allow retrofiting of some features such as reversing cameras. Not sure if they would make changes to safety features for you?

Personally I would not touch anything that has been remapped. It adds another layer of difficulty and expense in diagnosing and repairing the inevitable faults that will occur on an eleven year old car.

Did you code the new battery to the car? It needs to be done to ensure it is charged correctly. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFK0JPs6aO0

Welcome Jason, Useful information would yield more comments:- e.g mileage, service history, number of owners, last change of owner etc. etc. Could you let us know what ‘homework’ you have already carried out on the car - to minimise the risk of the forum suggesting information seeking that you have already done? How far are you travelling to view the car? ‘… Stage 1 map’… May suggest the car has been driven with a style from ‘enthusiastic’ to ‘thrashed’. Not a good start for an 11 year old luxury car. Regards, Gareth.

Hi guys, great forum btw. My names Jay and live in Knaresborough North Yorkshire. On Saturday I'm off to see about an A7. Would you guys be kind enough to list some points I should look at or ask? The model is....2015 audi a7 s-line quattro 3.0 diesel with stage 1 Thank you in advance

Bought a new battery

Hi all I need to replace the drivers side rear door on my 2024 B9.5 Saloon after my wife lost a fight with a brick wall whilst driving it… Couple of questions - can I use a door from an Avant or are they different? Seeing conflicting information online… I think the part numbers are the same but want to confirm before purchasing! And I don’t trust ChatGPT enough! Also, would a B9 door fit without issue as well? Found quite a few online in the right colour (Daytona Grey) but most are either from an Avant, or a B9 model. Any help much appreciated!

I agree that Lane Assist is an annoying feature. Where I live in rural Northumberland the country lanes are narrow, and in many places the shoulder is badly potholed. Where safe, it's often necessary to drive close to the centre line to avoid the potholes, but of course Lane Assist is constantly trying to steer me back.

Great! very helpful to know what I might be looking at. Many thanks.

My understanding is Audi just change the oil, however there's a mesh filter which needs cleaned. Pretty sure it will be 5 generation Haldex.

Hi. Not sure on the compatibility but not sure if you’re aware there is a haldex unit which sits in front of the diff. This is usually disengaged so the power is to the front wheels only unless the system detects slip at which point the rears are engaged by the haldex. The haldex unit should be serviced every 20000 miles. Might be worth looking at that as well as I believe they can cause problems.

Hi guys, I recently purchased an OBDeleven device and scanned my car. It's showing fault code P191A00. I checked the camshaft adaptation (Bank 1) value, and it's reading between 0.70 and 0.86°, which seems to be well within the normal range. Could this still indicate a faulty crankshaft or camshaft position sensor, or is the issue likely to be something else? Would it be worth replacing either sensor, or are there other checks I should carry out first? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

Item (18) here. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/audi/RDW/A4AR/673/8/820/820031 Genuine Audi £240, but labour, potentially 4-5 hours. It’s a fiddly job, trim to remove, etc. Depends what they find. VAG group were using silica bags as had moved to G13 coolant. System may very well need flushed, etc. Not sure who made original part, possibly Mahle?