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So it’s head off then, and replace at least 2 valves - they don’t stick if they aren’t slightly bent. New timing chain and associated components. Refit everything and keep fingers crossed that the work and expense has resulted in some sort of rectification. How do you value this 20 year old car Mark, when you have it back in reasonable working order?

I have the knob in the boot on the right, the light goes from red to green etc, however when turning and holding I can’t release the tow bar, that means I can’t deploy is there anywhere I can spray or check the solenoid

Hi all help is needed here please i I bought my c6 Allroad about 12 months ago, the seller said the backup camera needed calibration I’ve looked around etc as I was told it should work but a blank screen through mmi 2g high is more likely a hardware fault. i have changed the switch box on the right hand side, I have fitted a 3rd party camera. Then I found the Audi only works on a 5v system so with 3rd party camera I boosted the v to 12v and bingo I have a picture. i have now bought an original camera and back to a blank screen so boosted to 12v and it works. i was then told it’s the mmi screen so I have updated to an android radio and again blank 12v and it works how do I increase the power to the camera or is there something wrong else where? many thanks

I agree a second opinion would be worthwhile, however I think you will be very lucky to win a warranty claim on a six year old car.

Car was cheap as it was a family member … if the valve did indeed make contact with the piston, wouldn’t this have marked the piston? The piston in both 2 and 8 look perfectly fine?

Now you know why the car was so cheap. A new or rebuilt engine is needed.

Yeah the rear part has come off at the front section but the front part the screws are very rusty and loose really want to get it changed. Have seen some parts on Ebay but unsure if correct part. Thanks again for time its greatly appreciated 👍

It might not be as bad as you think as the under tray is in two parts. Front for the engine and rear for the gearbox. Looks like it's come apart at the join.

Cheers @Turlough I remember buying Fedoro parts donkeys years ago when I had an old mk3 cortina never gave them a thought but haven't yet started on the rears.

Hi guys thanks for the responses! So I recently purchased the car for a VERY cheap price with this problem. (I love a gamble!) again paid very cheap! the car still starts just misfires… On both cylinder 2 and 8 it’s only 1 valve on each that is only very slightly open. Would the cams being out not cause this? I’m from the West Midlands by the way Magnet!

Aircon compressor could be at fault. Has the system been pressure tested?

Cheers Gareth I've just got Febi front hubs and wheel bearing kit along with a Frenkit caliper recon kit for my S2 front caliper conversion upgrade 🤞 but may need cv joints or complete shafts depending on their condition once off and wishbones.

Id recommend you get a second opinion from another Audi dealership as well as from an Audi independent specialist. Then contact the motoring ombudsman. You'll be waiting 6 months for a reply though.

Keep us posted on how you get on

Hi folks can anyone recommend an aftermarket undertray iv just noticed that mines has been cable tied up and has come apart at the front any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers

Hi AOC, I have been experiencing difficulty with my dealership who is adamant that my rear o/s suspention that has been misting for 8+ months, and progressively getting worse with squeaking becoming more pronounced under load - does not meet criteria for a warranty claim - I have All-in from Audi. The issue was first highlighted by Audi in October 2024, and again in early June 2026 - both instances documented in an Health Report and Audi video / picture. I addressed this issue earlier this month with a Sales Manager in the absence of the After Sales Manager, who stated it does not meet criteria for a warranty claim - no details of this criteria shared? Instead, I was advised that the best that could be done is to clean the area and reassess in 2-3 months, which I reluctantly agreed to with a picture before any cleaning for my reference. In the interim I contacted Audi Warranty and attached both Health Reports and a still image for their attention - I received the following reply: Thank you for your email. Regarding the suspension component, this is a part that may potentially be covered under warranty. However, coverage is dependent on the diagnosis and the root cause of the failure. At this time, no warranty claim has been submitted for this issue. To proceed, please have the garage submit a formal claim. Once received, our technicians will review the details and begin the claim process accordingly. I put the above to Audi UK Customer Services and had the matter escalated to the Audi Executive Office - with the later referring me back to the dealership to be offered an explanation why it does not meet criteria?! NO support from the Executive Office who did not seem to have read the complete chain of emails. Any advice or guidance AOC?

The timing chain has jumped a sprocket tooth as a result of stretching or collapse of its tensioner. When that happened at least two valves hit the piston crowns and bent the stems, hence they will not retract fully. As if that's not bad enough there is a chance that the conrods have also been bent by impact with the valves, so you could have a very expensive repair bill ahead of you. Timing chains don't fail abruptly. They give plenty of warning by way of chain slap before something serious happens, so I believe the growing problem has been ignored for a long time.

Welcome Mark, How long have you owned the car, and how long have you had this sticking valve issue? Timing chain tension, and any chance it’s jumped a tooth or two? Regards, Gareth. p.s. Can you be more specific with your location please? Large country is the U.K.!

Hi guys new here! Love the site and I am looking forward to getting to know you guys! so…. I have an Audi S4 4.2 B6 that has a severe issue 😔 car had random misfire on both bank and a camshaft fault. Confident it was timing chain I decided to do a compression test… all cylinder came back around 195 psi apart from cylinder 2 & 8 which were both 0! I have pulled the intake manifold so i could see the intake valves and on both cylinder 2 & 8 it appears 1 valve on each stays open a tiny bit? Any ideas what could be the cause? Here is a couple of photos of bank 1 cam shafts which seems out of time abit if im correct? thanks in advance!!

Let us know how you get on John.

It’s Brembo for me for brake parts - often bought off reputable sellers on EBay. Other parts:- I favour Febi etc. usually bought at competitive prices from Parts in Motion ( who also supply via. EBay. Let us know what you think Tony. Regards, Gareth. p.s. Turlough - how old is your mechanic?

Welcome Graham, Have you searched EBay, and registered your want with on-line car breaker link sites such as Partsfinder - there are more? Regards, Gareth.

Thank you Frank, Your case is unusual. Usually,owners want to buy larger diameter wheels, because ‘they look better’! Ride quality is obviously important to you ( and would be to me), but in effect, you have bought the wrong car by buying an S.Line, which has inherently harder suspension. My money would be on the likelihood that you bought the car on ‘looks and toys’, which Audi translate into ‘owner also wants roadholding at the expense of ride quality’. One other factor to consider is whether your current tyres are extra load (XL), since if so, this will aggravate the already harsh ride. Please let us know.

Hi Frank, I agree with all the comments you've received so far, but cant emphasise enough the importance of the offset. I have gone through a wheel changing exercise myself on my Audi and it took me months and months to find wheels I liked and that would fit. The offset can determine where on the hub the wheel will sit and whether its likely to fowl any brake or suspension components. Fortunately there are easily accessible websites that can give you a guide indication of how your new wheel will fit, they will ask you for your existing wheel fitment and the new wheel fitment your proposing. They will ask you for the existing and new wheel radius and width, and also existing and new tyre sizes. They will also ask you for the offset of both existing and new wheels. The offset is often referred to as the 'ET' followed by 2 numbers and this is usually stamped in the wheels casting on the back of the rim. Just as an example my existing wheels had an offset of ET31 (stamped on the reverse of the rim) and the new wheels I was proposing had an offset of ET40. If you want a smooth and not so bumpy ride, try and and avoid tyres with a profile of less that 40. Hope this is helpful

Thanks. I had someone take a quick look but nothing obvious stood out. Was just wondering if it sounded familiar to anyone before I paid for a deeper dive into it.