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We bought our 2012 Q5 Quattro S-Line Auto about 6weeks ago. We love it. It quickly showed up a fault though, when it started not reversing properly. Short story and not uncommon, it needed a new clutch. We finally got it back about a week ago and I've just realised that I can't toggle between "Drive" and "Sport" modes. I could before and but since the work I can't. Clearly it is not a "mechanical" issue as such because the minimal travel on the gear stick suggests it is just a switch which changes the gearbox and engine mapping. Other than this it is driving absolutely perfectly, I'm just missing a mode. Obviously it will be going back to the garage that did the work but does anyone have any idea what may have caused this so I'm a little more informed. Perhaps there's a really simple fix I can do at home? Thanks in advance

The disc was probably rotated covering the tapped hole in the hub plate 🤔😆

Changed out the MAP and DPF sensors and cleared pipe work tonight with spares I had so will see what happens if anything. Hopefully haven’t stuck the old MAP on that had the intake temperature sensor issue

Ok, thanks

The only other thing I can think of is the low pressure EGR valve butterfly is clogged and may be slightly open, they are monitored but wont throw a code unless stuck completely, did you check the pipes were clear before fitting new sensors.

Hi black smoke is due to over fuelling, the high MAF reading is due to the ECU trying to combat the extra fuel with more air, so you either have a leaking injector or the car has been remapped at some point. Steve.

Hi if you tape over it the thing will work all the time as it works on opacity so the more its blocked the harder it works, this is quite a common problem on A4/A6 2012 up and is usually down to a cruddy control stalk on the steering wheel which is why there are so many second hand units for sale, you have to replace the whole unit which is a bit of a mission especially when you replace it as if you have not placed the squib ring in dead centre the steering goes bananas, try cleaning it with contact cleaner first. Steve.

Also air intake pipe from maf to engine has been changed. This was apparently collapsing under acceleration so changed some time ago

I’m only using VCDS. i have changed the dpf sensors x 2 and the map sensor. Map sensor was changed as it wasn’t showing a correct internal air temperature reading many months ago.

Hi I would suspect an air leak the other side of the MAF, also check the MAP sensor and the DPF sensor I had the same on my car and ended up changing both MAP and DPF sensors to cure this as the EGR was staying open when and allowing gas recirculation when you were trying to clog it in higher gears when it needs the maximum amount of fresh air, what diagnostic reader are you using as anything other than VCDS/OBD Eleven wont necessarily flag any codes, before I bought new sensors I had already changed the EGR valve which was pretty much mint because of the design it only gets hot exhaust gas and no recycled crankcase gas because that gets fed in further down the stream only to discover it might be a blocked pipe to the MAP/EGR sensors, no blockages so it had to be the sensors, don't ask why because they all communicate with each other and I never found out what wasn't working, took me ages playing chase the ace, all part of the wonderful Ultra technology and a very complex engine management software. Steve.

I am having running issues on my 2015 Audi a6 2.0 TDI avant 122,000 miles. 190ps ultra. Manual transmission. Car has been scanned with VCDD no DTC/fault codes or engine management lights. To explain: when I drive in 1st, 2nd and 3rd fully smooth through rev range whether I accelerate slowly or floor it. 4th is a bit intermittent until higher revs 3000+, 5th and 6th I get shaking and vibrating but also feels like it effects power. When I accelerate slowly at half throttle it’s not as bad or prominent but if I floor it in 5th/6th for acceleration anything about 1500 revs it’s a shudder acceleration (not like a flywheel failure) but more like you were going on and off throttle every second until revs increase. recently had wheel bearings changed and drive shafts so not related to that, tyres are new, intake to turbo pipe has been replaced, new air filter and no obvious blockages. MAF sensor showing as measuring correctly with no faults. It’s as if something is struggling (air/fuel) but no fault codes and I can’t get my head around it. any suggestions or advice?

Fault found and fixed

I am retrofitting an RNS-E to my A4 B7 which is going OK as I previously retrofitted an RNS-D to an A4 B5 znd got it fully functional, even my local Audi dealer was impressed. This time I am a little confused by the Navigation/TV tuner. What does it do for navigation as I have no interest in TV in the car. If it serves nothing useful for the navigation I am tempted to use the connector on the head unit for an aftermarket bluetooth music interface. The CD changer connects direct to the head unit as does the GPS anttena.

Welcome Doug, and thanks for joining. I fear it’s going to be a ‘how long is a piece of string’ response. Can you help by letting us know what it’s important to you - in order of priority:- Dry and wet roadholding, longevity, ride comfort etc. and what your driving style is - from sedate to enthusiastic -? Are you looking at premium, mid range or budget? What brands have you tended to favour in the past with other cars? Kind regards, Gareth.

Hi Is it possible to switch off auto windscreen wipers on my A4 B7? I have had several different cars with auto wipers and none of them work. Either one wipe every three days or ten every second, well a slight exaggeration but you know what I mean. I guess the sensor is in the back of the mirror housing. What if I tape over it.

Car is a 58 Plate 2.0tdi CBAB, 6 Speed Manual, 185k miles. I’ve had a car for around 100k miles and it’s been really well maintained. For the past little while the DMF was rattly, so upon deciding that i wanted to keep the car for a while longer because in the 100k miles i’ve had it it’s given me no problems I booked in to have another full clutch kit (had already done one previously). The DMF failure symptoms were the usual rattling on idle with the clutch up, rattling at the biting point and no rattling when pressed in. Car came back today and a lot of the noise did go away however it was still making similar noises upon initially starting it up. I still took it away as i thought it would take a minute for everything to settle in. Around 10 miles later i come to a stop and open my window and i hear an awful metal to metal sound. I then take my foot off the clutch and the sound goes away. I then let the car cool down for about 30 mins and then the sound goes away. I will try and attach a video of this. Everything is very very confusing. I will try and attach videos of the noises a little while later! Thank you in advance for any help 🙂

1996 2.6 107,000 miles Runs very well just a bit tatty. Rear window needs replacing , has abs light on dash (could just be a sensor or could be pump) brakes work but no abs, Heater inoperative and tear in seat,crack in rear light cluster. Nice project if you have time or many spare parts. £600 ono

Very likely. You might be able to clean it rather than replace it, but I'd wait for others to chip in first.

Hi all. Audi a3 2008 2.0 tdi. Black smoke on acceleration and diesel smell, slight whistling sound . Plugged an obd2 scanner in. No fault codes but maf reading a lot higher than it should be. Could this be the culprit for the smoke and smell? Any thoughts? Thanks

Thank you for the information Merlin. Please let us know the outcome.

There's two parts to the function (at least on my MY23 A6). There's lane guidance assist which aims to keep the car centered in the driving lane, and lane departure warning which aims to stop you crossing the lane boundaries. A short press of the button on the indicator stalk turns off the lane guidance assist, and a long press turns off the lane departure warning. When lane guidance is on/off a pair of little arrows at the bottom of the icon in the dash will appear (on) and disappear (off). When the lane departure system is on, you'll see two white lines (or green/red according to status) but when it's off, the two lines disappear. These systems are linked to adaptive cruise control as indicated in the owners manual. I generally leave lane departure warning on, but turn off the lane guidance assist except when on motorways or long dual carriageways...

Came on again after starting engine then goes off after awhile just need to know if I should be concerned or not/ battery is fine.

I everyone, I've got an used Audi A1 2019, 25 TSFI Sportback. I've discovered a noise coming from the back of the car, only when the air is off. This noise is like a "flap" of a rubber surface over a plastic part. I've discovered the reason, and I made a video of it. What do you think? Is that normal? In my opinion...seems like a "design issue" 😐. I will go to an Audi center in 2 weeks, in the meantime I ask your opinion... thanks!

Please can anyone help with recommendations, based on use. All welcome. Cheers

I’ve spoken to Audi customer services at length about this issue. They push everything back to the dealership. Audi UK will not or cannot confirm there is an issue with the alternator. Audi Uk will not or cannot confirm whether there is an extended warranty on the part. And they will not or cannot confirm whether the replacement parts being fitted have the issue resolved or will simply fail again. I’m not entirely sure what they are there for as they simply deny any responsibility as they didn’t sell me the car and are not responsible for it’s maintenance and safety - this they say is the dealership and the manufacturer. This despite them being a wholly owned subsidiary of Audi Germany. Audi Uk maintain that technical queries should be answered by the dealership who will contact the manufacturer. My dealer replaced the part and confirmed to me that it has an extended warranty and that the part and labour are covered by Audi. 7 years was also confirmed. My car is 3.5 years old and does have an extended Audi warranty on it but this was not used to cover the part. So the route to solve this seems to be entirely via the dealerships. Mine have been superb I have to say. hugely disappointed in Audi UK but I’m not surprised by this to be honest